Bobsticle

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat
Whilst I was at it today I decided to drop the oil. No history of the vehicle so I thought I'd better drop the sump and remove any crud. It looks like its been weeping anyway for several years.

Crud removed and new filter fitted I sat on the floor scraping the old gasket off the sump. I should say trying to scrape the gasket off. I use a piece of spring steel in such situations and couldn't draw it across the surface for lumps, bumps and spot weld craters.

:eek:​

What a faff. Why bother milling the engine block and then try to marry this lumpy piece of ****e to it.

:mad:​

Short of taking it down the engineering shop and having a few thou skimmed off it I decided to improve the finish myself. I know I couldnt get it perfect but I could give it a fighting chance to seal.

:rolleyes:​

Had a rummage round the shed and emerged with a spirit level and an opened belt off mi belt sander.


You can see the old gasket here. Looks like some sort of asbestos. :confused:





Miles out.......................... :eek:







Spirit level and a long bit of emmery cloth.........




Look at the bleedin state of it................... :(




Getting nearer...................... ;)







Almost there. Lets hope the toilet paper gasket I had does it justice....... :rolleyes:


 
I have never used squirty gasket. Nor will I.

Too many things to go wrong. For me its a bodge. Im no engineer but solid bits of silicone oozing out of joints to end up flying round the engine are a no no.
 
To go one further and I would have If I still had the bits..............

Put a sheet of foam on a flat worktop..........

Place a sheet of plate glass on top of that and spray glue wet and dry to the glass............

Turn the face onto the wet and dry and rotate until completely flat and polished.

Used to do it with the back of new chisels when on the tools. You cant get flatter without heavy engineering tools.
 
it's not a bodge to use rtv. lots of things require it.

anyway, with the 2a oem gaskets are way thicker and better quality than bm/allmakes. probably cover that gap no problem :)
 
Best tell them all now. When Henry was built they didnt require it.

Probably.................. :D

Give me a ready cured 2mm sheet of it cut to my desired gasket shape............ now thats a different story
 
Last edited:
Bobsticle said:
Best tell them all now. When Henry was built they didnt require it.

Probably.................. :D

Give me a ready cured 2mm sheet of it cut to my desired gasket shape............ now thats a different story
Click to expand...


RTV Silicones aren't too clever sometimes, but I urge you to reconsider on the blue Hylomar issue - it is excellent stuff, widely used.
Castor MiMechE etc.
 
Castor said:
RTV Silicones aren't too clever sometimes, but I urge you to reconsider on the blue Hylomar issue - it is excellent stuff, widely used.
Castor MiMechE etc.
Click to expand...

Ive lasted this long without the stuff so ill probably never lower my standards now......... :eek: :bounce:


No I tell a lie.............. I remember picking up a tiny tube of blue stuff in the early eighties. I think a thermostat went on a mark two ford escort on our way to Blackpool and the bloke in the garage had one but no gasket. This was of course in the days garages sold things for cars not groceries and coffee.

I stripped it once home and put a gasket in......... ;)
 
Castor said:
RTV Silicones aren't too clever sometimes, but I urge you to reconsider on the blue Hylomar issue - it is excellent stuff, widely used.
Castor MiMechE etc.
Click to expand...

no no no.. he's right! come on look, "Hylomar® Universal Blue sealant was originally developed by Rolls-Royce Plc Aerospace Division for sealing joints in jet turbine engines"

the bodegy b**tards with their duct tape jet engines.

what's that? also used by a few f1 teams for their engine rebuilds? god those guys are dum dums

most vehicle manufactures require rtv during fitting? most mechanics in the land use it? will these guys never learn
:D :D

i'll stick to my frosties box and scissors thankyou very much. now it's been 2 months.. time to redo the sump gasket.. the buggers always going.. might try coco-pops next
 
Looks like we may have hit a nerve................


I, that is me, prefer not to use squirty sealant. I dont care who uses it, when they squirt or why they squirt. I like gaskets. Whether they are paper, rubber, silicone or wood. Thats what I like, thats what I trust and thats what I use.
I believe its being dragged up as a craftsman that endows one with a sense of tradition and correct practice. That and enjoying the way you do things.
I have no doubt squirty works. I have no doubt its more cost effective in manufacturing. I am sure a few gallons in the professional workshop saves on ordering or stocking thousands of parts. I have no objection to great sagging beads of it hanging out of every orifice in other peoples cars. Just not for me.

I hope that clears it up.
 
no nerve, i was having a laugh at your beliefs is all :D :p

i disagree, but who wants to have an argument over rtv! not me :)
 
Back to the sump...

First off, that one's been badly overtightened somewhere in its lifetime - explains the condition of the sealing lip.

In this situation I just go for the files and the straightedge. If you want to be really insanely anal about it (not necessary for a sump but can be fun as a training exercise) a sheet of glass and some grease is a help. Smear grease on glass, place sump inverted, wiggle, then file the high spots.

Usually the straightedge does just fine for me, usualy preceded if I have an overtightened sump with a thorough biffing with a mallet on the edge of the anvil to set initial flatness.

Alan
 
Not sure that sanding the edge flat was a sensible thing to do. LR design the parts deliberately. In this case, if you look at the first photo where you have cleaned it up it shows a consistent contact point around the inner edge. The rest of the edge where the bolt holes are positioned are slightly curved down; this is probably deliberate. Think about it fitted. It has the gasket in between and as its all tightened up the bolts have a clamping effect to achieve a consistent pressure seal for the gasket. By flattening it you are reducing the clamping ability of the bolts to achieve a seal. I'd check this point with a supplier to see if new/ replacement sumps are the same.
 
RTV is excellent stuff when used correctly. Major motor manufactures have used it instead of cut gaskets since the mid 1990s.
I would not be to quick to blame the pressing on the sump, how old is it ? How many amatures have given the studs an extra tighten to "cure" a weeping sump ?
As for gaskets compare the thickness of say a V8 Britpart gasket with an OEM the OEM is about 1.5mm the Britpart about 0.5mm.
 
John S said:
Not sure that sanding the edge flat was a sensible thing to do. LR design the parts deliberately. In this case, if you look at the first photo where you have cleaned it up it shows a consistent contact point around the inner edge. The rest of the edge where the bolt holes are positioned are slightly curved down; this is probably deliberate. Think about it fitted. It has the gasket in between and as its all tightened up the bolts have a clamping effect to achieve a consistent pressure seal for the gasket. By flattening it you are reducing the clamping ability of the bolts to achieve a seal. I'd check this point with a supplier to see if new/ replacement sumps are the same.
Click to expand...


Well if it does now leak more he could always use RTV :D

#stirrer
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Series 3 Sump gasket or RTV?
Replies
7
Views
1K
Wildefalcon
W
C
TD5 centrifugal drain pipe to sump LRJ100000 gasket leaking
Replies
0
Views
531
Cbroomhead
C
badlad
Sump Guard
Replies
8
Views
449
badlad
badlad
J
Series 2a cutting out on incline
Replies
18
Views
756
tottot
tottot
E
Freelander 1 Fitting new crankshaft rear oil seal and oil sump gasket to L series
Replies
1
Views
456
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel