I don't believe so. WIndshield is different on the 110 vs the Series trucks.

Agreed with everything here - however Imight go a step farther and inspect the rubber bits. Being as it's a single-circuit braking system (witness the hydroboost setup) that means you have no backup circuit if thing fail. Have a good look around the flex lines in the hydraulics, preferably with...

Yes but if you have the original 2.0 you'll be doing a lot of shifting.

Doug, speaking as another Yank :) have you considered going to a driveshaft shop and having one fitted to it? the J**P boys use a lot of double-cardan shafts so it's not like you couldn;t get that done - and down in the wilds of West Virginia :) you might be better off with a locally sourced...

Dumb question - did you pull out the 6 and put in the Prima - or had it been re-engined somewhere before? If the former, then order a 6-pot chassis and you should be the same as the old chassi. If you moved the mounts you'll have to do it again. If you're working with a re-engined...

Those numbers are OK. The 12.x voltages at the cold start are from not revving the engine past idle when you started it - it takes higher than idle RPMs to get an alternator to start charging properly in most cases. I wouldn't be worried about it - you're looking decent. Alan

That valve is called a shuttle valve, and it's not really for pressure differentials... Its purpose is to close off a defective brake circuit in the event of failure of a part of the hydraulics. If you pop a flexy or crack a line the circuit it is in will not develop pressure, though the other...

OK - first dumb question - how many amps is it and does it have a remote votage drop or is it all in one? Really, all you need to do is insert the ammeter into the feed from the battery cable to the wiring harness (speaking in generalities here - don;t know what car you're planning to fit this...

Sounds to me like the float is sticking and the pump will happily keep overflowing things... :) Check the float for cracks, look at the needle and make sure the pivot points aren't worn. Alan

Could be. If you push directly down on the shift lever it will move downward in the socket and you could get some lithium grease spray or the like in there (or garage door wheel lube with graphite - which is becoming my go-to for casual work like this). Alan.

If you mentioned what part of the universe you're in it might help... Unless the motor has had all of the magic smoke let out of it, it may well be amenable to disassembly and cleaning. What usually stops a Smiths motor from functiong is grungy bearings and congealed lubricant in same. What's...

Re: Aluminium: Heat shield, perhaps? Were it here in the land of eternal rust I'd call it a bodged repair and be looking for rot underneath it. Got to say I love the looks of it - you can fix this up no doubt. BRAVO! Alan

One to the right is likely tow electrics - my military 110 has a hole there that a cannon plug came out of for same. I will make an adapter plate for a 7-wire socket to fit mine. The welded nuts along the bottom are for a tow plate - they get used often for things like a brace for a Dixon-Bate...

Re: Wiring: A coouple of handfuls of Lucars of various sizes and a tube of contact grease would go no end of handy. I'd grab a batch of bullets as well, as they will pulll off on an older harness. Handy home hint - grab a ttin of plumber's flux as well - if you can get the one with solder in...

Got a plan for this or just going to dive in with the spanners? I'd suggest at least sitting down with a pen and paper over a cuppa and running through the process in your head at least at a high level. This will help you think about things you likely want to have on hand to make the job...

Re: Hot spray: Not familiar with the reasoning on this. Most of the automotive paints I've worked with have been temperature sensitive - the reducer needed to be matched to the ahop temperature. Why heat it? not trying to be annoying - really curious. Alan

OK - quick thought here. Use your digital camera to get a good look up into the area. With the slave out, you should be able to get your phone camera up there and snap a half-dozen shots (remember to set it to close-up!). With luck this will let you at least define the problem so you can see...

No on the coolant temp sensor - but a nice thought. The RV8 does that when it fails out the sensor - gets to be a right bastard to start. My thought here would be to make sure what system is buggering up - could be fuel, but could be ignition as well. With it in failed condition crank it and...

You do realize you've shot yourself in the arse with that statement, right? :D If it's not leaking it's empty. Alan

Diff - EP90. As far as seals go, i tend to use whatever my suppliers carry as OEM. Avoud the blue box parts and anything that far down the food chain, and look for Corteco, Timken or some name brand and quality. I suspect the 25-quid ones are "brand name" parts from a main stealer...