N

Northerner

Member
Hi All

I recently inherited a Series 2 Landrover and initially thought I would simply sell it, hence the thread on here to find its value, however I have now found myself wanting to keep the LR and restore it to its former glory, mainly as it means I can get rid of the P38 I currently have and still have a 4x4 workhorse, albeit with less luxuries but I am hoping less problems too.

I don't know too much about the vehicle, but having got some info from my last thread I wanted to post some more pictures and see what you all think and whether you can give me any further info as to what it is, has and needs.

Thanks in advance and hopefully the pictures below give you an idea of what I'm taking on...














 
very nice :) i'd be doing no more to that than cleaning the rust off the brakes, a full service of all oils and maybe a little rust prevention (wire brush and paint)

it looks to be in really good condition from these new photos, it was obviously built to be used by someone that knew what they wanted

if it has to be moved from where it is presently i'd be looking for all the spares that may be around and loading those in the tub

Enjoy :)
 
Lovely! :) One of the late 2as with the headlights out on the wings.

And looks like it may already be on a galv. chassis?

As above^^^^^^^^^^^^. Full service, all fluids and filters, bit of rust containment work, cosmetic touches. Personally I would get rid of the roofrack.

And use it! Old motors hate standing idle in a shed! :)
 
Thanks for the info and complements guys, it sounds more promising that I imagined. Do I need to look out for anything with the engine or they pretty straight forward?

And yes I believe it does already have a galvenised chassis and bulkhead

Cheers
 
Northerner said:
Thanks for the info and complements guys, it sounds more promising that I imagined. Do I need to look out for anything with the engine or they pretty straight forward?

And yes I believe it does already have a galvenised chassis and bulkhead

Cheers
Click to expand...

Petrol engines are pretty strong and simple, go on for ever if serviced properly. Weber carb might help economy.

Ideal, the big work has been done, just tidy up and drive! :)
 
Nice series that are.... Bit of a wipe over with a rag and wd40....galvy chassis AND bulkhead are a big bonus...
As are the disc brakes and capstan winch...
Looks like it might have all alloy door tops too so you'll not have to replace them every couple of years or so lol
Nice that when it was registered after being cast (disposed of by the raf/mod) it was registered at local office hence the JA In the registration.
JA/DB were both local numbers.
 
do NOT get swapping carbs ... the guy that built this truck obviously knew what he was doing and has probably put on a carb suited to the engine and vehicle in general, the only problem you may face (in my opinion) will possibly be the need to clean it out and fit a new inline filter

as to mpg, it's going to be horrendous regardless of what carb is fitted, it's a 2.25p in a 109 with a roof rack, on a good day driving like your favourite granny with the wind behind her and only going downhill i'd expect no more than 19mpg, usually less (your wallet will be getting some exercise)

yes the fuel consumption is going to be a shock, it might be worth studying LPG and fitting a couple of tanks under the chassis (i'd suggest using a BLOS carb for the gas), you'll need to know what engine is fitted and compression ratio/valve seats for best results and then tune it to run on gas rather than petrol

but before you change/modify anything do the basics required to get it on the road nicely then and only then do your studying of what you have and decide any further improvements/modifications that you may require
 
its only from using it on the road that you will be able to decide if you want a more economical engine too, if your mileage isn't high it would take a long time to recoup the cost of the new engine or lpg system.

once had a vehicle converted to lpg c 15 years ago, cost £2k (would cost a lot more now) but I was spending around £80 a week on petrol, so I got payback in about 12 months so it was worth it.

now I only do a couple of thousand miles a year, if that, so having anything converted just to use a bit less fuel wouldn't be worth it, payback would be far too long.
 
Thanks guys, I'm not going to be doing masses of miles in it really, just pottering around locally and on the Moor.

Do I need to strip the hubs, diffs etc to make sure it's all ok or just drive it and see what happens?
 
Very nice,disc brake conversion is not cheap.Treat any rust,check/change all fluids get it going and see how it goes.Then if you like it sort out stuff like the seats as you go along.cheers.
 
Northerner said:
Thanks guys, I'm not going to be doing masses of miles in it really, just pottering around locally and on the Moor.

Do I need to strip the hubs, diffs etc to make sure it's all ok or just drive it and see what happens?
Click to expand...

Just change all the oils, and the brake fluid, and try it. :) Grease prop ujs.

If it has been sitting outside or for a long time, the swivel balls may have gone rusty.
 
Northerner said:
Thanks for the info and complements guys, it sounds more promising that I imagined. Do I need to look out for anything with the engine or they pretty straight forward?

And yes I believe it does already have a galvenised chassis and bulkhead

Cheers
Click to expand...

well the bulkhead is rusty as, so that doesn't look galved.

personally. i'd strip the bulkhead out, fix it, galv and stick all all back together with a nice coat of paint.
 
the only thing i'd do beside change any fluids (oils water etc') is get at the discs to sand/wire mop them to remove the rust and pull the rear brake drums off to clear any rust from the inside of those along with inspect the shoes and brake pads

as long as all the lights/wipers work it's then time to get in it and drive to assess it's general condition (driving this is going to be a shock if you've never driven one before), you may want to find someone local with a bit of experience with leafers to help you assess it's driveability

being a 2a you should find it has no synchro on second and first gear so take your time as that can be a bit offputting at first, the steering will feel horribly heavy and vague in comparison to modern motors, stopping distances are likely to be greater as well

ignoring all that don't be put off, they're great fun and your kids should love it if they're littleish (even if the missus don't)

i really wouldn't be in a rush to pull it all apart just get out and enjoy it, it'll leak oil from anywhere it can (99% of them do) and if it doesn't it'll need oil in it cos it'll be empty and dying

there'll be plenty of questions you'll come back with but don't try to do too much in one hit if you're not experienced with your own maintenance, one job at a time and we'll get you out enjoying it :rolly:
 
trax said:
well the bulkhead is rusty as, so that doesn't look galved.

personally. i'd strip the bulkhead out, fix it, galv and stick all all back together with a nice coat of paint.
Click to expand...

Good observation! :) Now I look back at the pics, you are right, it isn't galv.

I still think you could get get ten years out of that by scraping down and re-painting those areas, though.

and as it doesn't sound like he has driven one before, might be an idea to try it before going to a lot of effort, series aint for everyone! :D
 
That's a nice looking landy. Like the capstan winch. I'd leave the diffs just do the fluids n oil an see how you get on. Also got n overdrive n long bench seats at the back. I'd change out the cruddy front seats. You have the basis of a really good landy. Enjoy��
 
Agreed with everything here - however Imight go a step farther and inspect the rubber bits. Being as it's a single-circuit braking system (witness the hydroboost setup) that means you have no backup circuit if thing fail. Have a good look around the flex lines in the hydraulics, preferably with someone stepping on the brakes to see if you're getting sny ballooning or seeping.

Flexies are cheap, and changing them simple especially if you're going to re-bleed the system anyway.

Alan
 
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