My photo is rubbish :rolleyes: The temp is in the bottom right of the display and yes its easy to fit but i needed to do a bit of soldering to fit it into the recess. Link on here to ebay - Click The plug in adapter that is designed to go into your cigarette lighter I fitted into the...

Yes I am pleased with it :) I keep a note of miles covered as the gauge is a bit pessimistic at times :rolleyes: Filled up today and brimmed the tank - 31.04 mpg

No its not original - its from ebay and fitted in place of the original clock :)

Its the same basic engine and should fit fine but you might need to swap some of the old engines ancillaries over. Unless its a VVC engine then your Freelander ECU and wiring loom wont have the correct plugs to fit the sensors

My 1.8 does 31 mpg on a 46 mile round trip commute generally in traffic doing around 50 mph (if I am lucky :rolleyes:) and a bit of in town driving at the end. I think thats good considering the weight of the car although its only done around 45k on its replacement engine (a new engine rather...

Definitely sounds like HGF then :( if you are up to replacing it yourself its quite straightforward to do

Best check the coolant level when the engine is completely cold as the level will rise as it heats up

My 1998 Xei has the early centre console without the cubby box and had a rear 12v socket. Wiring should be there under the console :)

Get a compression test done first before taking the head off, if you are not loosing water and dont have mayo in the oil or mayo floating around in the coolant then its maybe not HGF - overheating maybe caused by a faulty thermostat. Your power loss might be a burnt out valve.

Chances are the HG has gone - is there any sign of mayo in the oil? but it might just be a lose or split hose, leaking radiator, faulty coolant tank cap or leaking thermostat housing - loads of stuff to check before condemning the engine but with power loss as well it doesn't sound good. Good luck

Sounds very like how my Freelander locks worked (or didn't) as the drivers door central locking unit was faulty as it would not unlock with the remote. I fitted a replacement door latch and now it works as it should :)

So does mine :)

Have you driven the car as it needs to sense the wheels moving before the light goes off?

Sounds like the IRD is breaking up and in dire need of replacement

Over fueling could be the ECU temperature sensor brown plug (not the gauge sensor - blue plug) that is faulty causing the ecu to think the engine is cold when it is hot - is the cooling fan running all the time as this would suggest the connector is un-plugged, have the gauge and ecu plugs been...

:lol: I guess its too much to expect reliability this year as it never went wrong last winter!

I think you are right, any K series one should work

I started using the old 1.8s again this week after it being sorned over the summer. I fitted a window cable replacement months ago and its been fine, using it a few times when moving the car about. Other day I put the window down to clear the water off it and crunch - 1 broken regulator :mad...

Glad you got it sussed in the end :)

I know the part you mean, probably best described as a heater control panel. Something like this - Click