Yeah i had that problem. The etch sat nicely on bare metal and ok on the old paint. But at the edges of the old paint it reacted and crinkled. Lots of further sanding and fine dustings of filler primer eventually got me through it. I'm sure there is a more professional way!

Have you not just replaced a piece of worn steel with soft aluminium? Looks like a job well done but unless I'm missing something....

What a pita for you. And the stupid thing is that the guy has positive feedback.... Because sellers can't leave negative feedback for buyers! What idiot thought up that system. Rant at eBay... Hopefully he'll get banned.

My understanding is that they won't just give out the info without good reason... Such as you just saw it bash off your wing mirror and need to get in touch with the owners etc etc.

Anything is possible.... Especially if you can weld. Have they got airbags in the bolsters? I modified some seats recently to fit.. Have a look to see what might need to be done: Seats Unless mistaken i believe it is an MOT requirement that seats can be moves to at least 2 positions...

What makes you think the calipers were sticking? The disk looked like it had a good wear pattern (at least on the outer surface) and the caliper looks like it has been performing fine too... the pistons are all out equally, the pads have even wear both compared to each other and also from piston...

I'm also interested. Have a walking foot machine here but not used in anger on any seats yet. Look forward to following progress. Then nicking your ideas and making something much better.:) Ta!

These were bought from ebay for about £30 a few years back and have been sat in the loft since. Having spent a couple of weeks with an MGF (selling it for my mum) I found the seats particulatly good: they've got thin bases they've got good bolsters but not bucket like they've got simple...

I bought an ex-mod tailgate for my project. There was the usual 12+ layers of mod paint on it. I tried nitromors and it did a good job - but only one layer at a time. No exaggeration. One layer. Flap disks are good but can be very harsh of soft ally without alot of care. DA works well but...

How about you stick some rubber matting down either side of the hinge to level things up? I'm struggling to find a reason not to buy one... not much more £££ than a discloc and seemingly much more convenient with minimal downsides.

With all the floorpan fasteners removed and the lock folded flat will in not just pull out as one with the floorpan?

Agreed.

Just gone to torque up the engine mounts and the nut has full on stripped the thread. Now unless i'm reading the haynes wrong it should be 85nm which sounds like shed loads to me. Its just an m10 thread.... Can anyone confirm the torque? Ta. EDIT. First time I've been caught out by...

I've bought stuff from them on eBay in the past. All good in my experience.

The britpart rear outrigger I used went all the way through and allowed me to weld in the inside chassis surface. It did have the narrow dia bit on the end (perhaps to slot into remnants of the old one) but with the chassis hacked apart it welded in on both surfaces without any problems.

I like this.. But eventually intend to build something like the td5 dash with space for some speakers either side of the stereo if possible... Above item is from a French company www.acc16.com

Nice one, thanks for the wing fitting advice! Totally agree with your sig too... Had a britpart door seal turn up last week and guess what... Yup, the rubber thickness varied massively and was so thick at one point it wouldn't compress enough to let the door shut... Another britpart item in...

Glad to see the restoration has started. It'll probably be all done and MOTd before you know it! And if the manifold is cracked it'd certainly not be a DIY job to weld.. Cast manifolds are tough o keep together whatever car they're from.

Nice work fella. So, as someone who has tried both, which is the best way to refit front wings? Inner and outer together or inner first? Mine are in bits now and I can go either way!

Don't know how long ago you did it but things may have changed since. I sent off an engine change request in August and they sent back a standard letter refusing to change it without written evidence from landrover / the aa / a receipt from the garage who carried out the change. I may have...