You have to start from basics, replace the chain then try and get hold of the proper timing tool to set the pump indicator mark. Time the engine with a dial gauge on number one exhaust valve as the book. You now have somewhere to start, play with the pump timing by slackening the unions and...

Last time I was in Craddocks they had side lights in a bin by the counter. Cheapo pattern and for an extra bit of money some OE They all leak and only last a few years, I seal everything with vaseline plus put it on the metal parts of the bulbs and terminals. Seems to stop the poor earth niggles.

Forget Richards. You contract is with Devon 4x4 they retailed it to you.

Just re read the post it is a series three. Mirrors are door mounted off the hinge, I did once make a mould for Raydot that I think was for a Land Rover.

Err, what series have you got ? Are you sure it is LEP on the light ? LAP (Lucas auto products) are still alive and well.

If you are changing from a 2.25 then use the ones off the present engine. Have you read Glencoynes web page ? Modified defender mounts are sometimes used.

The chancer has surely got the noughts in the wrong place.

Well yes if you really want to but you are best off with wider rims. You will also lose some steering lock and have increased steering effort; man up or go to the gym. I was always happy on 205/80s but do think SWB look good on 750/16s

The best comment I ever read about a fuel injected engine was. "It is so good you would think it was on carbs" Personally I have always found petrol fuel injected motors to be lacking something and snatchy compared to a well set up carb. My 110 V8 was super smooth.

Hmmm. you have not shown any chassis shots but looks a nice straight project. No idea of value as it is a very limited market, Robin over on one of the other forums may have more idea.

A fan is better than a dehumidifier I used a cheap desk fan when faced with storing my Rover 95 in less than ideal conditions. Flat's bathroom fan sounds like a good idea.

I read it that he only bled to the 8mm bleed point, cracking the injectors moves the bleed point further on. Once again sound advice from James.

Have you tried cracking the unions undone a bit at the injectors and spinning it over ? They will usually bleed off and fire then tighten the unions up if you are lucky whilst it is still running.

Err in a word. YES

Bury your pride and fit plastic back bowls. No one will see them and they are there forever. I worked on the original mould for the mini ones, I will look to see if any samples still around next time I visit the old works place. I am long retired now.

Plus one on needing the extra power. I tried 3.54 diffs on a 2.25 diesel and took them off within a month.

The pedal height is set by screw and lock nut on the end of the peddle box. As James says you need to have free play by adjusting the two nuts (Around 1/16"/1.5mm)

I take it that you have cleaned and checked the earths ? Series three indicator stalks can die.

A full list on Paddocks site, it works out a bit pricey to buy the all. I ended up re using old seals and sealed with clear silicone after all fitted up. You hardtop will most likely leak, most do. Finding the leak is near impossible......

If it is a series three clean the fuses, all sorts of things glow when they are dodgy. Did you fit relays to the dip/main circuits ? The cheap indicator stalk switches get fried if you don't but you may get a year from it first.