Bleeding procedure from the workshop manual

They can be a pig to bleed, so definitely an engine to avoid running out of fuel in. There are bleed screws through the system, and by slackening them or the various fuel pipe unions you can ensure that fuel is through to where you need it. Once the injection pump has got no air in it it...

The governor inside the injection pump will have stuck in the start position - which is full throttle to aid engine starting. You’ll need to free it off by either springing the throttle lever a few times or a few very careful and gentle taps with a light hammer somewhere substantial on the...

Completely normal. Setting them up properly takes a long time but is well worth it.

They look like tubed ones. Genuine tubeless ones are stamped as such, along with the part number.

The cable on mine broke years ago, I just reach through the grille and release the latch manually.

If I remember correctly you have to knock it right to the extreme of the splines travel in one direction in order to disconnect it. I used a long wooden drift and a hammer last time.

Later pedal with the over-centre spring is the simplest answer. You’ll need the later 300Tdi-onwards pedal and pedal box, but they’re readily available. I swapped mine (1992 200Tdi) years ago, over time I wore that pedal box out and recently swapped in a whole brand new assembly. Result is a...

Same vehicle, but 370k now. And timing belt due again :)

Check the fuel leak-off lines at the injectors first, this is a common Tdi issue and is cheap and easy to fix. Check the banjo bolts for tightness and the pipe itself for perishing. Leaks here mean a difficulty starting after being left for a while as the fuel drains back.

Which model Makita do you have?

Best way to I’ve found do it from scratch is: Tie string from the towbar right around all four wheels, crossing each tyre at the mid point. Centre the steering box as above with a bolt or drill bit. Fit drag link and adjust length to put LH wheel in straight ahead position (i.e. string in a...

The slave is the same so you can unscrew the sensor adaptors and connect up the pipe on the vehicle. You’ll need to transfer the adaptor off your old slave cylinder. The assist spring will make the pedal much lighter, give the spring and bushes some grease before to goes into the car. Another...

A 90 with rear seats is going to have next to no load space, it’s basically passengers or stuff with them. To carry both properly you need to look at a 110 station wagon. Everything you describe is doable, at a price. You’d not get your money back though if that’s a consideration for you.

It’s for the damper as above. Some early 110s still had the carry-over from the Range Rover off front and rear shock mounts. Some vehicles also had double shock mounts.

You could try glueing the insert back into the gearknob, if you can find a string enough glue. Or alternatively fill the hole with epoxy, let it set and then drill it out to a suitable diameter so that the thread on the gear lever will cut a new thread into it. That’s how they come from the...

Support the swivel housing while you remove the top pin otherwise you'll risk damaging the seal and it'll leak.

If the heater is still producing hot air when the temperature control is in the cold position then the cable and/or diverter flap in the heater box need adjusting. It’ll never be properly cold air as it’s not air-con and it still has to go through the heater box which will be warm-ish but the...

the fan speed lever also controls a flap at the join between the heater box and the bulkhead, putting it right to the top will close this flap and stop the airflow. There will be airflow while moving as the intake on the wing has positive pressure over it.

Arles and Windjammer are the same colour, just named differently when used on different vehicles. Yours looks like Arles blue