Resurgam

Resurgam

Well-Known Member
I'm currently rebuilding my 200Tdi and have taken the opportunity to buy a Puma clutch pedal box from eBay so that I don't have to assist my leg by pushing down on my knee in slow traffic, and as a bonus I get a decent LR master cylinder to replace the Britpart one that I've somehow ended up with.

The mounting fittings are the same but the major difference is the hydraulic connection. On the Puma version (left of photo, not rusty) the pipe connector exits on the right and there's some sort of electrical connector which isn't present on the 200Tdi, whereas the 200Tdi version just comes straight out. Can these bits be unbolted and swapped or is there likely to be some issue with doing this? And what's the electrical connector for?

While I'm on the subject, is it worthwhile also buying one of those clutch assistance springs or is the Puma one light anyway. Just thinking of the wife, honest!
IMG_20191027_195921677.jpg
 
Can't help really but have you got the puma pedal as well?
The clutch assist spring is on that (if they have one).
 
Disco1BFG said:
Well, my advice, FWIW, is to fit a servo to the clutch and be done with it :)

I even did a thread on it too :p ............ :D

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/servo-assisting-the-clutch-300tdi-r380.301335/

:)
Click to expand...
That's a great guide. I'll certainly bear it in mind if there are any future issues, but for now I think I'll see how much of a difference the new clutch pedal will make. That'll be a while off anyway as I'm still in full stripdown mode and getting to the point where I've got a functional Landy is a distant dream!
 
The slave is the same so you can unscrew the sensor adaptors and connect up the pipe on the vehicle. You’ll need to transfer the adaptor off your old slave cylinder.

The assist spring will make the pedal much lighter, give the spring and bushes some grease before to goes into the car. Another thing worth doing is putting a grease nipple into the already-threaded hole at the end of the pedal pivot shaft, on the side of the pedal box. This means you can grease the main pedal pivot and keep it smooth and free. You may need to dig some sealant out of the hole first. The grease nipple thread is the same as a propshaft UJ.

Remember also that the later pedal does not adjust in the same way as the Tdi one does. The bolt on the front of the pedal box is a depth stop screw, not an adjustment of the pedal resting position. There is no need to adjust the position of the trunnion on the master cylinder pushrod other than to set the pedal height correctly.
 
LOF are releasing a new PowerMaster master cylinder for the 200 tdi. This will reduce the pedal stiffness and I for one will be buying one.
 
windy81 said:
LOF are releasing a new PowerMaster master cylinder for the 200 tdi. This will reduce the pedal stiffness and I for one will be buying one.
Click to expand...

Yes me to. I saw that, they also
Have a power slave but you can’t fit both together

Power MC is about £30 I believe and reckoned to reduce clutch effort by 20% - worth a go in my book :)
 
The 200tdi is an odd beast as the power slave doesnt fit and the springs don't either so up to now you could only fit the really expensive servo. I'm looking forward to fitting the power master at £30.
 
windy81 said:
The 200tdi is an odd beast as the power slave doesnt fit and the springs don't either so up to now you could only fit the really expensive servo. I'm looking forward to fitting the power master at £30.
Click to expand...

I presume you are referring to the RedBooster thing ?

If so it'd be worth a read of my thread which I posted the link to above - less than £100 all in, for a servo with more assistance than the redBooster thingy, which I agree is quite expensive.
 
flat said:
just done this today, fitted the power master master cylinder, and the power spring to a new (to me) 300tdi pedal box

trouble is with the LOF spring the clutch pedal stays down but with the factory LR spring the clutch pedal behaves normally :/
Click to expand...
Mine behaved the same until it was connected up with fluid.
 
flat said:
just done this today, fitted the power master master cylinder, and the power spring to a new (to me) 300tdi pedal box

trouble is with the LOF spring the clutch pedal stays down but with the factory LR spring the clutch pedal behaves normally :/
Click to expand...

Found the same thing with the LOF spring compared to the normal overctr spring ended up winding the 17mm adjustment in a gnats and it worked fine.

Cheers
 
turrican said:
Mine behaved the same until it was connected up with fluid.
Click to expand...

mine is fully bled, will bleed it again jsut to be sure

neilly said:
Found the same thing with the LOF spring compared to the normal overctr spring ended up winding the 17mm adjustment in a gnats and it worked fine.

Cheers
Click to expand...

does that alter the pedal height? I managed to get it spot on 140mm.
I can get all gears, and it doesnt slip the clutch accelerating hard up hill in 4th so i think the MC is set up okay, i followed the book and checked it about 5 times. Clutch doesnt ratchet up either, which i have had before (not on a LR) when the MC wasnt returning properly.

So just literally wind in the pedal stop enough that the spring doesnt go over centre?
 
flat said:
mine is fully bled, will bleed it again jsut to be sure



does that alter the pedal height? I managed to get it spot on 140mm.
I can get all gears, and it doesnt slip the clutch accelerating hard up hill in 4th so i think the MC is set up okay, i followed the book and checked it about 5 times. Clutch doesnt ratchet up either, which i have had before (not on a LR) when the MC wasnt returning properly.

So just literally wind in the pedal stop enough that the spring doesnt go over centre?
Click to expand...

This is the pedal down stop, it is a 17mm AF bolt with a lock nut on the pedal box in the engine bay. Literally only a turn or two, a bit of a play and it stopped it going over ctr. Clutch still worked the same .

Cheers
 
neilly said:
This is the pedal down stop, it is a 17mm AF bolt with a lock nut on the pedal box in the engine bay. Literally only a turn or two, a bit of a play and it stopped it going over ctr. Clutch still worked the same .

Cheers
Click to expand...

great cheers, yep i know the one will have a bash tomorrow :)
 
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