Well mine failed the MOT but only on a fog light which is all corroded inside, a headlight bulb that was not seated correctly, a hole in the chassis under the front outrigger, 10mm of missing seem welding on another new patch and the 2 track rod ends on the front steering bar......

Headlight bulb sorted and welding done, will fit new fog light tomorrow then just a new front steering bar/2 ends and a retest Friday.....

Could have been worse :D
 
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if it is a front fog they are nothing to do with the test. if it's a rear then you only need the offside so if it's a single unit and the nearside that it failed on just remove it for the retest and it should pass
 
Animal88 said:
if it is a front fog they are nothing to do with the test. if it's a rear then you only need the offside so if it's a single unit and the nearside that it failed on just remove it for the retest and it should pass
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No, it;s the standard offside fog light. I was going to change all the lights for LEDs as I'm sick of constantly changing bulbs. I might just cobble something together inside the existing casing for the MOT then change the lights next week. I left it a little late so I'm going to have to change the ball joints on the front steering arm. If I'd realised earlier I'd have fitted a pair of HD bars and a self centring steering damper.
 
The LED conversion is well worth doing. I got the Bolt on Bits kit as a Christmas present for my Land Rover and it has been excellent.
 
Brown said:
The LED conversion is well worth doing. I got the Bolt on Bits kit as a Christmas present for my Land Rover and it has been excellent.
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I've just sent them a message on ebay about the plinths. The kit says it includes 2 plinths rather than 8 so just checking I don't need more. If there are only two I take it that they are for the top rear lights. Also asked them about wing repeaters.
 
cowasaki said:
No, it;s the standard offside fog light. I was going to change all the lights for LEDs as I'm sick of constantly changing bulbs. I might just cobble something together inside the existing casing for the MOT then change the lights next week. I left it a little late so I'm going to have to change the ball joints on the front steering arm. If I'd realised earlier I'd have fitted a pair of HD bars and a self centring steering damper.
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I have heard the self centering steering damper isn't worth the money I have driven my mates D1 200tdi with standard damper and my D1 200tdi with terrafirma relocated damper and hd steering bars and I much prefer mine as its a more positive steering feel and no need to constantly correct it to keep it straight and it centers itself fairly well. there is someone on here that has written a review about a self centering damper might be worth a read before spending out on one. after reading it myself I have been turned away from them as I don't feel I need it and mine is fine for me but you may feel that it is for you and can buy with some facts and fairly un bias information about them
 
Animal88 said:
I have heard the self centering steering damper isn't worth the money I have driven my mates D1 200tdi with standard damper and my D1 200tdi with terrafirma relocated damper and hd steering bars and I much prefer mine as its a more positive steering feel and no need to constantly correct it to keep it straight and it centers itself fairly well. there is someone on here that has written a review about a self centering damper might be worth a read before spending out on one. after reading it myself I have been turned away from them as I don't feel I need it and mine is fine for me but you may feel that it is for you and can buy with some facts and fairly un bias information about them
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If you have to correct to keep it straight then it's fitted wrong. I like my RTC damper, it does make it a bit more of an effort to manoeuvre at low speeds but I value the self centering over that. Definitely not everybody's cup of tea though
 
Replaced the speedo cable and speedo drive. Britpart speedo cable, two thumbs up. Bearmach speedo drive, utter crap :(. Still, I think my speeds accurate now at least
 
the_wolf said:
Replaced the speedo cable and speedo drive. Britpart speedo cable, two thumbs up. Bearmach speedo drive, utter crap :(. Still, I think my speeds accurate now at least
Click to expand...

Easiest way to check is a GPS speedometer application on iPhone or Android.
 
I had been using one while my cable was fubared but I'm beginning to question how accurate it was. Got a blue speedo drive which should be for 7.5x16 tyres but my speedo shows 66 or 70 while the app only showed 60 or 63. It's showing my speedo as being 5 or 6 mph over but I was definitely going faster than 60mph and at 70 I was easily keeping up with other cars. Need a more accurate way of checking it
 
Passing the MOT with zero advisories. :high5:

Owe the MOT tester a drink, he let me follow him round and sort minor bits whilst it was still in the test.
 
Itching to get at it, but it's persisting down and I don't want to fry the grinder or welder!
 
twas only drizzling then, when I did my series crossmember it was ****ing it down, welder was outside and I was under a tarp welding up the crossmember........still got a bit damp though and changing welding rods without a glove on gave you a bit of a "buzz" but other than that it was fine :D
 
Dr_evil said:
twas only drizzling then, when I did my series crossmember it was ****ing it down, welder was outside and I was under a tarp welding up the crossmember........still got a bit damp though and changing welding rods without a glove on gave you a bit of a "buzz" but other than that it was fine :D
Click to expand...

Last time I welded in rain, under a tarp, all was going well ..

When I woke up outside the tarp some while later I thought it best to give in .. though that could easily have also been the extension lead .. but I just don't do it now!

The grinder let some smoke out the other day but it's still working, so again, I ain't gonna chance it.

;)
 
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