Good news indeed.
The annoying thing was the fault was random. Sometimes it would be fine for weeks on my daily commute, but then it'll suddenly throw a wobbly for a full week. I found that I could get the fault to show it's head by driving from mine to Bodmin. Just as I pulled from the A30 to the A38, the box would slam into 1st instead of 3rd. I drove it 15 miles after putting it back together yesterday, and it behaved and has done since. So fingers crossed I've sorted it. The box is definitely nicer, now it's got some fresh fluid in it.
Keeping the old girl for a bit longer then?
For a while. But I'm thinking of moving on to the FL2 at some point, if the right one comes along.
 
The main reason I bought it! Looking forward to playing with it now!

No, the only gearbox solenoid is (fortunately or unfortunately?) my arm..!
 
Access to the solenoids is tight, although less so on the V6, as there's no boost pipes or fuel pipes in the way. You access some from below and some from above. You have a gap of 4 or 5 inches between the cooler pack and the value block face.

You need to remove both the under tray and battery tray. You will then need to move the fluid cooler to the side, or remove it completely ,if you're going to be changing the coolant at the same time. You also need to drain the box, as the fluid level is above the bottom of the value block cover (traditionally the sump).
Once you can access the solenoids, you'll find them a right PITA to do, as you're pretty much working blind in the space you have. The 2 lower solenoids are accessed from below, while the 7 other's are accessed from above.
It took me 6 hours or so, but I did have to sort the battery tray clamp and did a video on repairing the brake duty solenoid too.

Thanks for that Nodge!
Sounds like some mental preparation is in order before taking that job on.
I'll have to do it on a weekend when I don't need to drive the Hippo to work on Monday.....just in case!o_O
 
Well, that's another job crossed off the list! Left hand front wheel bearing now changed and I can hear the radio again. Wouldn't say it was bad, but there were scuff marks on the end of the ABS sensor!
 
The mot is due on my fl1 k series and I'm dreading it. Last year, I only had to replace the drop links, weld an exhaust support back on and fix the rear number plate light but it had some advisories. One was a severely corroded fuel tank cradle and another was a severely corroded brake pipe. Whilst I was under it doing the drop links and exhaust, I had a good look at the cradle and brake pipes and they looked fine to me, yes a bit rusty but still plenty of life left. Do you think the testers check previous advisories before inspecting cars?

Col
 
One was a severely corroded fuel tank cradle and another was a severely corroded brake pipe.
Neither are particularly challenging, but far from quick and easy. I did my pipes 2 years ago, but I'll need to do the tank cradle for this year's MOT.
Do you think the testers check previous advisories before inspecting cars?
Mine doesn't. He's just put the same advisories as last year, on the wife's BMW convertible.
 
The mot is due on my fl1 k series and I'm dreading it. Last year, I only had to replace the drop links, weld an exhaust support back on and fix the rear number plate light but it had some advisories. One was a severely corroded fuel tank cradle and another was a severely corroded brake pipe. Whilst I was under it doing the drop links and exhaust, I had a good look at the cradle and brake pipes and they looked fine to me, yes a bit rusty but still plenty of life left. Do you think the testers check previous advisories before inspecting cars?

Col
Hmmmm.... I noticed my tank cradle was pretty crispy, when I was doing the diff mounts....
You can buy cradles relatively cheaply but replacing them is a fairly big job. I've replaced the plates on several Freelanders using home made plates. Some were alloy and some thin steel. I used cable ties a couple of times and home made brackets.
Here are a few photos I took of various versions.
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The hardest part was getting the old brackets off cleanly.
 
Today I did a bit of green laning on a local common, partly because I wanted to see how it's fared since the last time I went down it, but mostly to heat the gearbox up to see it the fault it had was fixed.

The lane was dry, but much more eroded than the last time I went down it.

The gearbox is behaving well. Not quite as good as I'd like, but I'm thinking the TCM needs to re-learn the parameters again.


I also painted an EGR delete pipe, that I got recently. I'm not keen on shiny if they bring attention to themselves, so I painted it matt black.
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I had to clean up the mounting flange on my belt sander, as the pipe protruded about 2mm from the flange face.
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A quick sand and all was flat. It'll be interesting to see if the engine performance changes, once I fit it tomorrow.
 
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Today I cleaned-up a second hand, OEM tow bar I recently acquired. Tomorrow I will try to fit it, if all goes well I'll soon be towing a trailer with boats worth over forty times the value of what's pulling it along!
 
MOT on Wednesday and as post above from Colthebrummie I have replaced drop links which were adviseries last year and done everything I could see that looked dodgy; new discs, pads, greased things, but the fuel cradle needs replacing for sure. I am hoping that it will pass then do it in next few weeks. Surprised it has never been mentioned already tbh. May the gods look down favourably on my Hippo, be good not to be working on it for a day or two
 
Today I cleaned-up a second hand, OEM tow bar I recently acquired. Tomorrow I will try to fit it, if all goes well I'll soon be towing a trailer with boats worth over forty times the value of what's pulling it along!
Boats that cost £400?
 
You can buy cradles relatively cheaply but replacing them is a fairly big job. I've replaced the plates on several Freelanders using home made plates. Some were alloy and some thin steel. I used cable ties a couple of times and home made brackets.
Here are a few photos I took of various versions.View attachment 178819 View attachment 178820 View attachment 178822 View attachment 178809 View attachment 178810 View attachment 178811 View attachment 178812 View attachment 178813 View attachment 178814 View attachment 178815 View attachment 178816 View attachment 178817



The hardest part was getting the old brackets off cleanly.
Thanks - loving the little stiffening ribs pressed into them, by the way!

Can you slot those in without removing the tank cradle itself?
 
And as I'm here....

Today I rechecked all the transmission fluid levels after changing them yesterday, replaced the alternator and aircon pump drive belts, replaced the IRD breather pipe that was hanging loose when I got the car, and refitted my undertray.

...might even drive it one day...!
 

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