Avocet1 said:
Thanks - loving the little stiffening ribs pressed into them, by the way!

Can you slot those in without removing the tank cradle itself?
Click to expand...
I gouged out a slot in some plywood, cut a length of threaded bar and rounded off the ends. I then put the plate over the plywood and bashed the threaded bar with a 4lb hammer. It was surprising how much it improved the stiffness. I've since built a press so could do it better now but I just use what I have to hand.

Yes they can be fitted without removing the cradle, You need to support the fuel tank while doing it so best wait until the tank is nearly empty.
 
This morning I fitted the freshly painted EGR bypass.
20190526_101208.jpg
This is really an experiment to see if it makes much difference, compared to a deactivated factory valve.
There's a lot of restriction in the factory EGR valve, by comparison to the plain tube of the bypass.
20190526_111846.jpg


Time will tell I guess.

I also measured the tyre tread depth, to give me an idea of when it's time to swap them front to back.
 
Nodge68 said:
This morning I fitted the freshly painted EGR bypass.View attachment 179024 This is really an experiment to see if it makes much difference, compared to a deactivated factory valve.
There's a lot of restriction in the factory EGR valve, by comparison to the plain tube of the bypass.
View attachment 179025

Time will tell I guess.

I also measured the tyre tread depth, to give me an idea of when it's time to swap them front to back.
Click to expand...
I changed my EGR for same looking kit as you a few years ago and I thought it ran better straight away and never had any problems.
 
Philgt50 said:
I changed my EGR for same looking kit as you a few years ago and I thought it ran better straight away and never had any problems.
Click to expand...

It may have run better if the original EGR valve was still active. However mine's been disabled for many years. I must admit that I haven't noticed much difference, at least not yet.
 
Don’t know if the original was active; I seem to remember it was really filthy and would be surprised if it wasn’t compromised in some way.
MOT Weds; just had a (hopefully) last look over. Number plate lights are a pain in the arse but working at the moment so if they survive a few days that will be nice. Everything else looks ok but I am too old to be surprised by MOT stuff so will take it to my friend who has a garage and I trust and see what turns up.......
 
What have you done with your Freelander today?

....discovered it has the dreaded chassis crack...

:(

All suggestions welcome (other than those involving petrol and matches - although that's tempting at the minute....)
 
Is the dreaded chassis crack a thing I have not heard of? Where is it? Sorry to hear that you have found it. Cars and bikes are really starting to pee me off. Great when they work, massive pain in the arse when they don’t. Mind you, still better than horses
 
Philgt50 said:
Is the dreaded chassis crack a thing I have not heard of? Where is it? Sorry to hear that you have found it. Cars and bikes are really starting to pee me off. Great when they work, massive pain in the arse when they don’t. Mind you, still better than horses
Click to expand...
It's mentioned on here quite a bit, and some good "google images" if you search for "Freelander chassis crack". If you get a creaking / ticking noise from the back as you let the clutch out (particularly in reverse on a lock), it's probably that. The rear subframe is held to the bottom of the chassis by 4 big bolts. They go into captive nuts welded into the main longitudinal chassis members. Unfortunately, Landrover rather seem to have skimped on the specification, so eventually, the right hand front one (just ahead of the rear wheel) fatigues out of the chassis. I guess the others will do it in time, but most of the time, the loads are greatest on that one. If you go under the car, you might see a slight gap between the subframe and the chassis at that front, right mounting point. If you get a screwdriver or small crowbar and try to lever the subframe down, away from the chassis, it will move and make a creaking noise as it does so.

20141007_142256-jpg.64435
 
No... don't make me look at mine... it's been creaking for ages... I took the view that if I pretended I didn't hear it then it would eventually 'go away' :-( one year on and it's still creaking. Noooooooo!
 
Lately I have had a delay on acceleration on my FL1 V6. It feels almost like a bad turbo lag. Throttle down, wait, wait, wait...Vroom!
Trying the simple fixes first I tested the VIS motors-Working as they should. Checked the vacuum pipes and found the one into the rear valve cover near the VIS motors was not firmly in.
I sorted that which seems to have improved things a bit. Last but not least I changed the in-tank fuel filter. The filter that came out was a VDO so was probably the original. It was kind of a tricky job to release the 4 clips that held the filter itself in place, but not as bad as I anticipated after reading the forums. I did pick up one tip from the Rover75/MG-ZT forum; That was to remove the big rubber sealing ring from the pump body and fit it to the flange in the fuel tank before inserting the pump body into the tank. That made fitting the locking ring easy. So easy I wasn't sure I had it on properly and did it twice! The test will come tomorrow when I fill the tank for the week's commute. :eek:
One thing to note...Make sure you let the vehicle sit long enough that the fuel system depressurises before removing the feed pipe from the pump. Messy and stinky!
The test drive was positive but I won't know if the hesitation is fixed until I give it a good work out. I hope it is as the next thing will be the auto gearbox solenoids. I suppose it could also have something to do with the NAS fly-by-wire throttle, I'll have to research that.
 
Land_girl said:
No... don't make me look at mine... it's been creaking for ages... I took the view that if I pretended I didn't hear it then it would eventually 'go away' :-( one year on and it's still creaking. Noooooooo!
Click to expand...

Yes I had that same thought. Mine has been creaking for ages. I eventually spotted a crack on the chassis rail behind the bolt fixture. I'm in the process of organising a repair. The workshops are chock-a-block and will be for the next month of two.

Mine had a new centre diff mount fitted not long before I bought it and I wonder if the subframe was bolted up to the correct specification. That and perhaps a combination of a poor quality diff mount fitted may have allowed extra stress and minute movement?

Funnily enough since I lowered the subframe to have a look and re attached it and torqued the bolts up it's stopped creaking!
IMG_4920.jpg
 
Now I'm reasonably confident that the gearbox issue has been solved, the Freelander has returned to its primary role as the family load lugging vehicle. This means the first cycling trip of the year, on the shiny new tow bar mounted, 4 bike carrier. I must admit that I much prefer this solution, compared to the universal 2 bike carrier strapped to the spare wheel, with 2 more bikes on the roof.
20190527_160533.jpg
20190527_160541.jpg
 
Nodge68 said:
Now I'm reasonably confident that the gearbox issue has been solved, the Freelander has returned to its primary role as the family load lugging vehicle. This means the first cycling trip of the year, on the shiny new tow bar mounted, 4 bike carrier. I must admit that I much prefer this solution, compared to the universal 2 bike carrier strapped to the spare wheel, with 2 more bikes on the roof. View attachment 179169 View attachment 179170
Click to expand...
Jeepers Nodge, that sticks out a lot!:eek:

Just as well you don't have my ebikes on it. The front wheels of the car would be in the air. :p
 
htr said:
Yes I had that same thought. Mine has been creaking for ages. I eventually spotted a crack on the chassis rail behind the bolt fixture. I'm in the process of organising a repair. The workshops are chock-a-block and will be for the next month of two.

Mine had a new centre diff mount fitted not long before I bought it and I wonder if the subframe was bolted up to the correct specification. That and perhaps a combination of a poor quality diff mount fitted may have allowed extra stress and minute movement?

Funnily enough since I lowered the subframe to have a look and re attached it and torqued the bolts up it's stopped creaking!
View attachment 179126
Click to expand...

Ouch! Yeah, that's what I expect mine will look like when I get it to bits! I've been pondering it today and I'm leaning towards going in from the top....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
673
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
261
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
742
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
634
Hippo
Hippo