andyfreelandy said:
There is a thread with the details of a replacement bearing that you can fit - if it makes a noise but works it probably is the bearing, sometimes slackening the belt reduces the noise to see if it is that. If it is no longer providing cold air then maybe a replacement is best.
Click to expand...

I've always been pleasantly surprised about the nice cold air from the system, especially given the age of the car and that I've never had it re-gassed in the years I've owned it. I'll investigate how involved that is now.
 
kernowsvenski said:
Well, I love my FL1 but sometimes, aged car ownership really tests you. My suspension knocks are now at the back of my mind as today my air con compressor decided to pack in. I guess it's the pulley bearings as it has been squeaking a bit for a while when switched on. Do I take a chance on a 2nd hand compressor or should I try and find the cash for a new one? (I'm a bit skint after recent works carried out on the car). Third option is leave it I guess because presumably this is what the L series sounds like anyway?:p



Que an hour spent searching Compressor and reading threads on replacement.
Click to expand...


I must admit that I'd find a cheap second hand one and have it fitted. They're pretty long lived items, and so a second hand unit should be fine.
 
Nodge68 said:
I must admit that I'd find a cheap second hand one and have it fitted. They're pretty long lived items, and so a second hand unit should be fine.
Click to expand...
Having done a bit of research I think I might have a go at bearing replacement first I think. If the pulley comes off okay it should be fairly straight forward. If it doesn't I'll probably look for a 2nd hand unit and have it done.
 
kernowsvenski said:
I think I might have a go at bearing replacement first I think. If the pulley comes off okay it should be fairly straight forward.
Click to expand...

I had to change the AC pulley bearing on my D3. It wasn't a particularly difficult job, although I did have to get the bearing out so I could identify the size of it. This delayed fitting the replacement.
 
Nodge68 said:
I had to change the AC pulley bearing on my D3. It wasn't a particularly difficult job, although I did have to get the bearing out so I could identify the size of it. This delayed fitting the replacement.
Click to expand...
Looking at the threads on here there was a good write up by @Hippo with a part number too. It could be my saviour lol
 
Not today, but last week I had the cambelt, waterpump and transmission fluids changed on my 09 FL2 TD4 auto.
The only fluid not changed was the front box as he couldn't get his vac pump probe down into the oil.
No drain plugs on some bits which is surprising. I don't believe in sealed for life!
 
Today I took off the sump guard in readiness for swapping the gearbox solenoids tomorrow. I also repaired a couple of 2/4 duty solenoids, one of which I'm going to install in my gearbox, along with a complete set of cleaned and tested solenoids I've got.
 
I have some cracks in my rear subframe mounting points. In the weekend I investigated to see how difficult it was to lower the rear subframe:
Rear wheels off
jack up and support body at jacking points
Support the subframe / diff assembly on a trolley jack
undo the 2 10mm bolts which secure the hand brake cables - this helps to get a socket onto the forward subframe bolts
remove the 4 subframe bolts
Carefully lower the jack & subframe

Pretty easy really, you can get 60 to 70mm clearance and possibly as much as 100mm.

Edit: I tried to put a photo up but have been unable to achieve that.
 
Today I replaced all the solenoids in my auto and the solenoid harness too. The fluid that came out was disgusting looking, so I refilled it with my favourite Carlube ATF-U fluid. Fingers crossed the random gear change troubles are now sorted.
 
Nodge, How was the solenoid change job? I may be changing mine sometime over the summer. Was access reasonable from below or did you need to strip out other bits for access?

Not much work done on my hippo over the weekend. All I accomplished was clay barring the bonnet then giving it a cut polish and wax to remove all the marks from winter commuting.
I'll do the rest of the Landy over the next month or so.
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
Nodge, How was the solenoid change job? I may be changing mine sometime over the summer. Was access reasonable from below or did you need to strip out other bits for access?
Click to expand...

Access to the solenoids is tight, although less so on the V6, as there's no boost pipes or fuel pipes in the way. You access some from below and some from above. You have a gap of 4 or 5 inches between the cooler pack and the value block face.

You need to remove both the under tray and battery tray. You will then need to move the fluid cooler to the side, or remove it completely ,if you're going to be changing the coolant at the same time. You also need to drain the box, as the fluid level is above the bottom of the value block cover (traditionally the sump).
Once you can access the solenoids, you'll find them a right PITA to do, as you're pretty much working blind in the space you have. The 2 lower solenoids are accessed from below, while the 7 other's are accessed from above.
It took me 6 hours or so, but I did have to sort the battery tray clamp and did a video on repairing the brake duty solenoid too.
 
Did some cleaning of the engine bay yesterday. Decided it needed a treat after a painless MoT.
 

Attachments

  • 39800083-3E25-4CCB-9E6F-239FAB875364.jpeg
    39800083-3E25-4CCB-9E6F-239FAB875364.jpeg
    298.8 KB · Views: 231
Found time today to finish the VCU bearing change and fit the front prop cv boot. All seems well. Yet more noises gone, although now it's all quiet I think I can hear a wheel bearing in the early stages of wear. I still have the suspension knocks too so that's proving a bit of a headache. The real good news though is that my aircon pump seems to be performing flawlessly (for now). The car has been standing for a few days but on the test drive earlier I tried the aircon and there was not a sound from the pulley/pump and the air was nice and chilly. All in all today the positives outweigh the negatives :)
 
kernowsvenski said:
Yet more noises
Click to expand...
I have a new noise now. It's a soft metallic ting, when I select D and then R. It's like something has got overloaded when the transmission slammed from 4th to 1st, or 1st to 4th. I'm suspecting the it's propshaft related, as it has a tubular bells type ring to it. It never ends does it.
 
Nodge68 said:
I have a new noise now. It's a soft metallic ting, when I select D and then R. It's like something has got overloaded when the transmission slammed from 4th to 1st, or 1st to 4th. I'm suspecting the it's propshaft related, as it has a tubular bells type ring to it. It never ends does it.
Click to expand...
Or maybe something not quite secure following your solenoids change? - although I doubt a man of your calibre would have missed anything!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
673
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
261
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
742
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
634
Hippo
Hippo