GrumpyGel · Feb 25, 2019

Nodge68 said:
You really could do with a sorting out the coolant loss GG.

AC use can sometimes make the heater box damp on the outside, and even drip condensate if the drain tube is blocked.

However is very suspicious that you're loosing coolant and the foot well is getting wet, as that points to a heater matrix leak.

Enjoy your road trip.

Bottle was almost empty again when I checked it this morning after our trip over Takaka Hill. It always seems to just empty the bottle, not much else - even after the foot well flooding incident. Thinking about it though, I don't remember the last time I lifted the rubber mat - so maybe water has been accumulating there over time unnoticed.

I only lifted the mat because there was water on top of it, which is not usual. Maybe that was relating to the AC.

As you say, time has come to sort this coolant issue out.

htr said:
Are you able to bypass the heater core as a temp get-you-home fix?

Its been emptying the bottle for ages (years). We're doing a lot of driving on this trip and I've been filling it each morning, but it is usual behavior for the car. I suppose Otira is the ultimate test for the car's coolant system (as well as other ultimate tests!) but it made it up there OK (if very slow) last year, so we should be OK tomorrow.

GrumpyGel · Feb 25, 2019

Madmustang said:
Changed ird oil but bottom of it is covered in oil drain plug has metal crap on the magnet so it's replace the ird time

I think you will always get some metal filings and sludge on the IRD drain plug magnet - doesn't necessarily mean the IRD is toast.

If the old oil looked OK (not grey) and there were no actual chunks of metal (gear teeth?) on the drain plug, then the IRD should be OK.

That's from my experience anyway.

Alibro · Feb 25, 2019

GrumpyGel said:
Bottle was almost empty again when I checked it this morning after our trip over Takaka Hill. It always seems to just empty the bottle, not much else - even after the foot well flooding incident. Thinking about it though, I don't remember the last time I lifted the rubber mat - so maybe water has been accumulating there over time unnoticed.

I only lifted the mat because there was water on top of it, which is not usual. Maybe that was relating to the AC.

As you say, time has come to sort this coolant issue out.

Its been emptying the bottle for ages (years). We're doing a lot of driving on this trip and I've been filling it each morning, but it is usual behavior for the car. I suppose Otira is the ultimate test for the car's coolant system (as well as other ultimate tests!) but it made it up there OK (if very slow) last year, so we should be OK tomorrow.

Go on GG, You know you want to.

Old diver · Feb 25, 2019

Fitted an extra thermostat and cleaned all the crap out of the manifold intakes and hoses. Got an oil extraction kit to do an oil change later this week, while it was new I fed it down the coolant hose and drew off quite a bit. There was only half a cupful left when I took off the hose to fit the thermostat. When it was all connected again I just put the coolant back in the reservoir.

Nodge68 · Feb 25, 2019

Old diver said:
Fitted an extra thermostat

Why are you fitting an extra thermostat?

Madmustang · Feb 25, 2019

GrumpyGel said:
I think you will always get some metal filings and sludge on the IRD drain plug magnet - doesn't necessarily mean the IRD is toast.

If the old oil looked OK (not grey) and there were no actual chunks of metal (gear teeth?) on the drain plug, then the IRD should be OK.

That's from my experience anyway.

You would be right in any normal circumstances but I know it's foobar as I built it last year lol, It whines and grey oil did come out of it.

GrumpyGel · Feb 25, 2019

Alibro said:
Go on GG, You know you want to.
View attachment 170893

lol

You read my mind - however, in my defense, I was wondering if I could just run it through the heater matrix - rather than ripping the whole inside of the car out to get at it.

Old diver · Feb 25, 2019

Nodge68 said:
Why are you fitting an extra thermostat?

Didn’t want to risk damaging anything getting the original one out. It was a lot easier shoving a £5 one into the top hose. Gauge is perfectly upright now and the cabin is a hell of a lot warmer. Prior to fitting,the gauge was only going up quarter of the way. I was going to remove the manifold and hoses to clean them out anyway, just as well as the manifold was well gunged up after 107 thousand miles.

Alibro · Feb 25, 2019

Old diver said:
Didn’t want to risk damaging anything getting the original one out. It was a lot easier shoving a £5 one into the top hose. Gauge is perfectly upright now and the cabin is a hell of a lot warmer. Prior to fitting,the gauge was only going up quarter of the way. I was going to remove the manifold and hoses to clean them out anyway, just as well as the manifold was well gunged up after 107 thousand miles.

Nice one mate. Lots of us have done the same.

mudinuri · Mar 5, 2019

Hope they last longer than the ones I"Ve recently fitted.

NeilTD4 · Mar 22, 2019

Nothing, but it passed its MOT (its first one under my ownership) with no advisories.

Rich in Vancouver · Mar 23, 2019

Redlined my V6 Hippo today and it went into limp mode which gave me a bit of a scare.

When I got home I shut it off, gave it a minute and then fired it back up.
The engine light was off and it was running normally again.....Relief!

raywin · Mar 23, 2019

Put the re man diff in my FL2 today and now I can hear the radio when I am driving.

Nodge68 · Mar 23, 2019

Rich in Vancouver said:
Redlined my V6 Hippo today and it went into limp mode which gave me a bit of a scare.

That shouldn't happen. See what code was stored, as it could have an underlying fault.

Old diver · Mar 23, 2019

Checked the gear box oil level that I changed couple of weeks ago, put a drop more in. Changed the IRD oil, it was like black mud and I’m sure it is the first time it has been changed in 107 thousand miles, something else the previous owner never did. After the struggle putting the oil in the gear box when I did it, I invested in a Sealey 1ltr pump, it made the job a breeze, no hassle at all. Engine oil and engine tray tomorrow, weather permitting.

Rich in Vancouver · Mar 24, 2019

Nodge68 said:
That shouldn't happen. See what code was stored, as it could have an underlying fault.

Agreed Nodge. I will hook it up to the Blackbox today and check the codes. Saturday was taken up wrestling the gearbox back into the MGF. Not a very pleasant job!
I was going up a mild hill in the Hippo in Sport mode with it floored. It got up to 6000-ish RPM and didn't change up as expected so held the revs for a few seconds.
That's when it went into limp mode. My fault really as I was trying to get rid of a tailgater. I should have slowed instead!
I have been thinking of fitting a new set of solenoids but will see what codes come up

Rank Amatuer · Mar 24, 2019

FL1: Removed the rear wheel and drum as it had jammed. Brake shoes had both delaminated and one of the pistons had pushed free. Took all apart and cleaned everything up (brake fluid everywhere)
I've thoroughly cleaned the piston and cylinder and it all went together easily. Held the pistons in the cylinders using a g-clamp and bled the cylinder. No leaks! New shoes on order and will fit when they arrive.

Nodge68 · Mar 24, 2019

Rich in Vancouver said:
I was going up a mild hill in the Hippo in Sport mode with it floored. It got up to 6000-ish RPM and didn't change up as expected so held the revs for a few seconds.

I find the ECU does like to squeeze every last drop of Bhp out the engine. Max power isn't made until 6,249 Rpm, and the ECU holds the gear until this Rpm is reached. Doing so is in the normal Rpm range, so it shouldn't flag a fault. I've had it happen on an MG ZS 180 (same engine), where I was at maximum Rpm, then missed the up change. This allowed the engine to "bounce" off the limiter, which flagged a code for a misfire. Bizarrely it was the ECU that caused the misfire, so why it detected it is anybody's guess.

Be interesting to see what your code is.

Rich in Vancouver · Mar 25, 2019

Nodge68 said:
I find the ECU does like to squeeze every last drop of Bhp out the engine. Max power isn't made until 6,249 Rpm, and the ECU holds the gear until this Rpm is reached. Doing so is in the normal Rpm range, so it shouldn't flag a fault. I've had it happen on an MG ZS 180 (same engine), where I was at maximum Rpm, then missed the up change. This allowed the engine to "bounce" off the limiter, which flagged a code for a misfire. Bizarrely it was the ECU that caused the misfire, so why it detected it is anybody's guess.

Be interesting to see what your code is.

Here is what came up. There were no codes for the Jatco. I am wondering the the coil on cyl. 5 is getting a bit tired. I replaced some coils a couple of years ago but not that one. I tested the VIS motors and they are working properly. I have a pair of Byron Rowson VIS motors in it so they are pretty durable. All in all it may have been an ECU thing.
MS43 FAULT CODE MEMORY CONTAINS THE FOLLOWING FAULTS:
P1472 Variable Intake Motor Actuator 2, Valve always Open
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

Nodge68 · Mar 25, 2019

Rich in Vancouver said:
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

This would cause the MIL to illuminate, however it shouldn't go into LIMP mode, at least not on our Simens 2000 ECU. I'm not sure about the US spec ECU, but it's possible it runs a limited operating strategy.

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