Engine tray fitted today, bit fiddly but nothing major.
Rich in Vancouver
Well-Known Member
I hope it isn't the ECU as the last time it went it cost me $800. for a used replacement and cloning.
That started out as misfire messages as well, only on cylinder #6.
I cleared the codes and it is running fine but I will check it again next weekend to see if any codes reappear.
One interesting thing, I found that the fuel mileage is literally the same whether running regular or sport mode so
Sport Mode it is!
Another positive note; I got the gearbox back in the MGF so now I just have to hook everything back up and see if it works.
That started out as misfire messages as well, only on cylinder #6.
I cleared the codes and it is running fine but I will check it again next weekend to see if any codes reappear.
One interesting thing, I found that the fuel mileage is literally the same whether running regular or sport mode so
Sport Mode it is!
Another positive note; I got the gearbox back in the MGF so now I just have to hook everything back up and see if it works.
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
Changed the rear brake shoes. If you've ever done it, you'll understand why that was all I got done today.
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
And today I had to go back in and replace one of the rear brake cylinders as one of them was weeping brake fluid.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Not today but a couple of days ago I used it to tow my stricken Zafira off the motorway. 
I then spent the rest of the morning reading up on how to change a knackered water pump and timing belt etc., and the afternoon doing it.
I think I was lucky the timing belt didn't break as this is what was left of a roller after the belt got so hot it melted the plastic. This was due to the friction of the back of the belt rubbing on the seized pump. I don't know how long it took for this to happen but I stopped the engine within a few seconds of the warning light coming on.
The water pump seized as I was driving along, the only warning I got was a flashing temp light as the Zaffy has no temp guage, I didn't hear anything unusual and the belt had been done less than 60k mile before.
I suspect he either didn't bother replacing the pump, over tightened the belt which is easy to do, used a crappy cheap pump or both of the first two.
I then spent the rest of the morning reading up on how to change a knackered water pump and timing belt etc., and the afternoon doing it.
I think I was lucky the timing belt didn't break as this is what was left of a roller after the belt got so hot it melted the plastic. This was due to the friction of the back of the belt rubbing on the seized pump. I don't know how long it took for this to happen but I stopped the engine within a few seconds of the warning light coming on.
The water pump seized as I was driving along, the only warning I got was a flashing temp light as the Zaffy has no temp guage, I didn't hear anything unusual and the belt had been done less than 60k mile before.
I suspect he either didn't bother replacing the pump, over tightened the belt which is easy to do, used a crappy cheap pump or both of the first two.
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GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Jeepers!Not today but a couple of days ago I used it to tow my stricken Zafira off the motorway.
I then spent the rest of the morning reading up on how to change a knackered water pump and timing belt etc., and the afternoon doing it.
I think I was lucky the timing belt didn't break as this is what was left of a roller after the belt got so hot it melted the plastic. This was due to the friction of the back of the belt rubbing on the seized pump. I don't know how long it took for this to happen but I stopped the engine within a few seconds of the warning light coming on.
View attachment 173694 View attachment 173695
The water pump seized as I was driving along, the only warning I got was a flashing temp light as the Zaffy has no temp guage, I didn't hear anything unusual and the belt had been done less than 60k mile before.
I suspect he either didn't bother replacing the pump, over tightened the belt which is easy to do, used a crappy cheap pump or both of the first two.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
When I was doing breakdowns, the most common reason a Vauxhall engine gave problems, was due to cam belt issues. Normally disintegrating plastic pulleys or seized water pumps was the cause.
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
FL1: Did an oil change using a Peli Pump to extract 6.5 litres of oil via the dipstick. No need to remove the under-engine guard (other than to retrieve the 36mm socket that fell off) Can't win them all.
Replaced a length of vacuum hose that had abraded through. It runs from a pair of tappings, where the EGR gets its vacuum from, to a T connector near the electronic control box. No idea what it does and haven't noticed any improvement/deterioration in performance or braking.
Can't win them all.Replaced a length of vacuum hose that had abraded through. It runs from a pair of tappings, where the EGR gets its vacuum from, to a T connector near the electronic control box. No idea what it does and haven't noticed any improvement/deterioration in performance or braking.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I can believe that now I've seen the poor design. The pulley seems to have melted in the few hundred yards it took me to realise the problem and get the car stopped. Many folk would have topped up the water and tried to "limp" it home but I suspect I was a mile or less from a broken timing belt.
At least K series cars don't usually break the belt when the pump fails so you have half a chance of saving it.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
A few carefully placed thumps with a hammer often retrieves such dropages.FL1: Did an oil change using a Peli Pump to extract 6.5 litres of oil via the dipstick. No need to remove the under-engine guard (other than to retrieve the 36mm socket that fell off)
Replaced a length of vacuum hose that had abraded through. It runs from a pair of tappings, where the EGR gets its vacuum from, to a T connector near the electronic control box. No idea what it does and haven't noticed any improvement/deterioration in performance or braking.
The hose is to provide a vacuum to operate the EGR. They always rub through at that spot and other than preventing the EGR from operating don't seem to cause any other issue.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The Vauxhall 16 valve engines were worse than the Rover K series by quite a margin. The Rover K16 valve had HG problems, but the Vauxhall equivalent had HG and timing belt problems.
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
Changed the air filter. Those allen bolts at the back are tricky; thankfully they're captive. Tip: long ball-headed allen keys make things easier.
Had a look at the PCV filter and pleasantly surprised to find the BMW cyclone oil separator mod had already been done.
Cleaned the EGR and blocked the vacuum pipe by the simple expedient of crimping the metal spigot on the EGR. There wasn't that much crap in the EGR, probably as it hasn't operated for a while due to the damaged vacuum hose identified by @Alibro.
Had a look at the PCV filter and pleasantly surprised to find the BMW cyclone oil separator mod had already been done.
Cleaned the EGR and blocked the vacuum pipe by the simple expedient of crimping the metal spigot on the EGR. There wasn't that much crap in the EGR, probably as it hasn't operated for a while due to the damaged vacuum hose identified by @Alibro.
Simessail
Member
We (Wife and I) have just bought a 2006 3 door TD4. We are in Central Brittany so the Wife is off to the ferry tomorrow, over to the UK, to collect her new pride and joy from the English dealer who will deliver it to the ferry port.
very excited.
We will post some pics and give our first impressions of the Freelander, not sure that the Wife will like to drive round in a Landy known as the Hippo, but we will see.
Simessail
very excited.
We will post some pics and give our first impressions of the Freelander, not sure that the Wife will like to drive round in a Landy known as the Hippo, but we will see.
Simessail
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the club.
Hope it goes well for you. Follow the advice here for checking the VCU and tyres etc and you should have a good car for years to come.
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
Five new 235/50 R18 V (97) tyres fitted. Ordered Wednesday from Blackcircles.com and delivered yesterday to my local tyre fitting centre. Great service from both parties.
Old tyres: 3 different makes. 3 different speed ratings and 2 different load ratings, one nail and two damaged/cracked sidewalls; all with just legal tread depth.
Also blocked the vacuum hose to the EGR at the T-piece near the check valve.
Car now goes in a straight line and stops smartly in a straight line.
Old tyres: 3 different makes. 3 different speed ratings and 2 different load ratings, one nail and two damaged/cracked sidewalls; all with just legal tread depth.
Also blocked the vacuum hose to the EGR at the T-piece near the check valve.
Car now goes in a straight line and stops smartly in a straight line.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I did that this time last year. Although I went for 235/55/18, to give a bit more space underneath and correct the speedo error.
Don't forget to swap the tyres end to end, every 2 or 3 K miles.
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
I considered that, but I love the handling of the 'Sport'. Goes round corners like on rails, and with a lot less roll and wallow than my FL2.
