Hi fitted replacement electric window mechanism in front passenger door as mine was not working
And the door card from a facelift to my pre facelift had to move the interior door handle (the one that unlocks the door )
Drill 3 holes and poprivit it in place then drill two holes for the self tapping screws that hold the door pull Handel (the one you pull the door shut with in place ) turned out really well just the rest of the doors to do now
 
Cleaned the air temperature sensor in the inlet duct. It was pretty gummed up, but haven't noticed any difference in performance.
The car's a bit tardy <2,000 rpm until turbo kicks in, so for my next trick I'll disconnect the MAF, see if things improve, clean it and stick it back in.
 
Mine got an oil change but no wash as there is rain coming this week, and I was too d**n lazy as well.
It gets a nice pat on the dash every day as thanks for getting me safely to work and back home again in our looney traffic.
Edit: Ordered brake pads, rotors, shoes and springs for a much needed service next week as well as air and pollen filters. I just realised that it's been 3 years since they were last changed..
 
Last edited:
FL1: Removed the MAF and cleaned it using proprietary MAF cleaner. It was pretty dirty.

Put everything back together and went for a spin. Bottom end power is back! She now pulls away in 2nd and 3rd no problem.
The part numbers on the sensor are:
BOSCH F 00C 262 029
481 19 2A
And on the other side:
PBT-GF-30

I have a 'TackLife' OBDII dongle and I was able to monitor the mass airflow from ~40kg/hr at idle to ~400kg/hr at #2,200rpm

How long it'll stay healthy I don't know, but so far so good.
 
stopped heat shield above backbox rattling,also stopped intercooler vibrating in front bumper.
stood and looked at it for a while, and thought no welding for you this year (again).
still glad I didn`t buy a defender or a discovery.:D
 
No welding for me either after i spent 25 mins taking my STAINLESS STEEL side steps off due to the unbelievably horrendous state of the brackets which appear to have very quickly become iron ore deposits
20190407_153053.jpg
 
Hi striped air intake manifold out of my donor freelander cleaned it with mr muscle and then soaked it in paraffin then pressure washed it so it is ready to fit to my own freelander wow can not believe the gunk
That came out of it but clean as a whistle now will clean the egr valve when I am fitting the manifold thanks for the advice from this site makes life so much easier
 
Today I ignored all those niggly little things that get one one's tits and went for an enjoyable drive in the sunshine with the back and roof panels off. Magic, if a bit chilly.
 
Hi fitted new flasher unit from my parts freelander as my old one was only working sometimes and replaced the front windshield wipers only little things but getting through my long list
 
I think I've finally found the cause of that creaking in the rear - a crack in the front mount point in the rear right rail :( It will be good to get that sorted. Reading the posts on here about cracked rear sub-frame mounts offers interesting ideas on the possible cause. Most commonly it is the right hand side and it seems it's also common for the front mount point to crack. One possible cause is the mount bolts not being torqued up sufficiently and that could be true for mine. Just before I got it a replacement centre diff mount was fitted and I wonder if those bolts were just tightened and not torqued to 140ft lbs.
 
For the chassis rail to crack, where the rear subframe mounts, there must be a reason. I suspect it's down to a slight weakness in the design of the mounting point itself, or the subframe is adding it's own stresses, maybe by being slightly twisted in manufacturing? I know that repairing and possibly strengthening the chassis rails well, will cure the problem completely.
 
htr said:
I think I've finally found the cause of that creaking in the rear - a crack in the front mount point in the rear right rail :( It will be good to get that sorted. Reading the posts on here about cracked rear sub-frame mounts offers interesting ideas on the possible cause. Most commonly it is the right hand side and it seems it's also common for the front mount point to crack. One possible cause is the mount bolts not being torqued up sufficiently and that could be true for mine. Just before I got it a replacement centre diff mount was fitted and I wonder if those bolts were just tightened and not torqued to 140ft lbs.
Click to expand...
Blinking Ek. Wonder how long its been like that. Does it have a tow bar? Wondering if the car was reversed into something at some point or maybe a trailer wheel caught something (don't ask why I'm thinking that, but looking at the bent draw bar on my trailer might give an indication!)
 
Early models had problems with the rear rail chassis crack. Not all just some. LR changed the design ter strengthen it. It's been some time since anyone came on ere with the same problem. Tis all written up on ere at the beginning of LZ.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Blinking Ek. Wonder how long its been like that. Does it have a tow bar? Wondering if the car was reversed into something at some point or maybe a trailer wheel caught something (don't ask why I'm thinking that, but looking at the bent draw bar on my trailer might give an indication!)
Click to expand...
Well when I got the FL the tow bar was bent downwards and the two rails under the luggage are have a slight kink in them under the door sill. The crack is in the mounting rail of the car, not the subframe itself and from what I can see it's about 25mm long. I hope there isn't any more.
 
Left it at home.
Thought best not to drive it too much until I get the bouncy (and knocky) suspension fixed.
 
Just bought Delphi wishbones and a strut bearing. I'l be sorting the front suspension (including snubber bushes previously purchased from Nodge) when the delivery from Advanced Factors arrives.
 
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