Fitted a new LR aerial base to try and make radio reception better. LR one is at the top. It's a different shape than what was there and there was no soft 'sealing' pad either.
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Fitted a new LR aerial base to try and make radio reception better. LR one is at the top. It's a different shape than what was there and there was no soft 'sealing' pad either. View attachment 146279
The one on the car is the early type. The one on its side is the later style replacement and what was fitted to mine. I replaced mine last month because the reception was terrible. I fitted one for a Peugeot complete with the new down lead. The reception has never been so good and the replacement kit only cost £7 from Amazon.
 
£7!! even with freight that would have to be a saving. My one was just under £20!! and then freight.
 
£7!! even with freight that would have to be a saving. My one was just under £20!! and then freight.

That's why I refuses to by an LR replacement. I was planning to replace the down lead too as it was clearly not working correctly. I could have spent £20 on the base, another £12 on the mast and a further £24 on the lead. So I chose the Amazon complete kit for £7.64 and I'm so pleased I did. The radio reception is perfect now, even though the new mast is half as long as the original.
This is the one I bought from Amazon. I can't link Amazon stuff to here, so here's a screen grab of the kit I bought.
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took out the centre console, steering wheel, entire dash/facia, heater box and finally the srs module then probed the loom - but what I mostly did to my Freelander today was verbally abuse it - A LOT.
SMFH

Cheers
Simon
 
Had one of those hours or so where I wanted to do a useful job on the car but ended up faffing around for a bit. I tidied up my high quality, expensive I.C.E. installation...
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On another issue. I began investigating the knock at the back. I noticed that the trailing arm front bushes looked pretty tired but I was mostly having a quick look at the sub-frame mounts. I'm just wondering if the slight gap at the rear of the mount is about right? Looking at the shape of the folded metal it would appear that there would be a small gap when viewing from behind, but I'm not sure...
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Passed MOT today. Smog numbers better than two years ago, I guess all that fretting and changing all the filters I could find did some good.

Saturday I put the car on jacks meaning to pull the VCU and propshafts. Got all 14 bolts out but couldn't budge the prop shafts from their respective seats. Hadn't really left myself enough room to move around in to be honest; nothing I tried worked and I was growing frustrated so I put it back together. May have another go tomorrow blocking it higher and with a bigger hammer ...
 
put a replacement srs module in - put the facia, centre console, steering wheel and drivers seat.

then noticed that disconnecting the battery had caused a fault on the tailgate window - someone put a dent in the tailgate a few months ago & since then the window wont fully retract - now after disconnecting the battery the tailgate window wont close - goes up, does a bunch of beeping then tries to retract.

Cheers
Simon
 
Passed MOT today. Smog numbers better than two years ago, I guess all that fretting and changing all the filters I could find did some good.

Saturday I put the car on jacks meaning to pull the VCU and propshafts. Got all 14 bolts out but couldn't budge the prop shafts from their respective seats. Hadn't really left myself enough room to move around in to be honest; nothing I tried worked and I was growing frustrated so I put it back together. May have another go tomorrow blocking it higher and with a bigger hammer ...
They should come away pretty easily but can be stuck. Try tapping the rear joint where it bolts to the rear diff with a hammer and it should come away. The front of the prop shaft fits into a very shallow cup but should also knock off fairly easily. If no joy drop the VCU onto a box so that it only drops 6 inches or so and the ends should come away more easily.
 
Alibro, color me sheepish :oops:, I tried again today and that's exactly what happened. If I'd tapped just a little harder the other day they would had just fallen off I'm sure. The difference today was that I jacked it up higher, enough for me to bring more force to bear, and I used a bigger hammer and a chisel. Fell right apart. So now I'm in Mondo mode until I get the chance to order the new VCU from Bell. My wife's Peugeot just went in for unexpected repairs so it may have to wait a month or so but at least I can rest easy about the drive line.
 
Alibro, color me sheepish :oops:, I tried again today and that's exactly what happened. If I'd tapped just a little harder the other day they would had just fallen off I'm sure. The difference today was that I jacked it up higher, enough for me to bring more force to bear, and I used a bigger hammer and a chisel. Fell right apart. So now I'm in Mondo mode until I get the chance to order the new VCU from Bell. My wife's Peugeot just went in for unexpected repairs so it may have to wait a month or so but at least I can rest easy about the drive line.
Nice one, bigger hammer fixes everything. :p
 
someone put a dent in the tailgate a few months ago & since then the window wont fully retract - now after disconnecting the battery the tailgate window wont close - goes up, does a bunch of beeping then tries to retract.

Cheers
Simon
fixed it!
went to the garage and had them pull out the dent as much as they could - they used a chain round the spare wheel bracket and fixed the othe end to an I-beam concreted into the ground and drove away till the dent pulled out while I stood and winced.
Window still didn't want to retract fully or return to parked position.
Today I released the window from the clamps on the runners & removed it then the mechanism retracted fully and reset itself. Reinstalled the window and it now parks fully closed - big grin.
The runners are obviously bent out of shape but for now the window closes - fixing the runners is a job for a day when the sun is shining.

Cheers
Simon
 
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In prep for a WoF [your MoT] and a new pair of tyres - moved good tyres to front, new ones go on the back and removed nudge bars.
 

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