Madmustang
Well-Known Member
Just swapped a damged rear ash tray and checked rear parking brake in my Freelander
Alibro
Well-Known Member
No prizes for guessing wot I wuz doin for the fourth or fifth time since I was silly enough to buy my first Freelander. 
Stooopid Land Rovers.
I've used silicon sealant in the past but I thought I'd give Pound Shop Epoxy a try this time. It drys in 5 minutes instead of having to wait overnight and is very strong. So far so good anyway.
Stooopid Land Rovers.
I've used silicon sealant in the past but I thought I'd give Pound Shop Epoxy a try this time. It drys in 5 minutes instead of having to wait overnight and is very strong. So far so good anyway.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Drove it to the caravan storage.
Polished the caravan, then went snow blind with the glare from the sun reflecting back
Mike
Polished the caravan, then went snow blind with the glare from the sun reflecting back
Mike
RossRobObey
Active Member
Got recovered twice yesterday, nfs wheel station was pouring smoke and brakes clearly stuck on. 1st recovery back to the workshop, stripped and regresed the sliders. Small test drive and all was well. 30 mins from work and it does it again, this time with a knocking.
I figure the first time had warped the disc, causing the noise but clearly it was still binding. Fresh discs on (<£40 from GSF!) and can see the piston was very rusted up and would barely come out of the caliper even pumping the pedal.
New seals and piston from Big Red for £11 and we're back on the road. Should have changed the pads whilst I was there but will do it next week.
I figure the first time had warped the disc, causing the noise but clearly it was still binding. Fresh discs on (<£40 from GSF!) and can see the piston was very rusted up and would barely come out of the caliper even pumping the pedal.
New seals and piston from Big Red for £11 and we're back on the road. Should have changed the pads whilst I was there but will do it next week.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Last time I tried using a Big Red refurb kit the seals were so thin I tore one while fitting it.
Never again!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I don't bother rebuilding calipers any more. As Rob said, a brand new caliper is so cheap, it's not worth my time messing with a rusty one.
I've just changed 2 front calipers on the wife's BMW, total cost £150 for new calipers, Delphy discs and pads.
htr
Well-Known Member
So parts ordered on the 16th April and they arrive in NZ on the 19th. Pretty good. I received them on the 24th! and the DHL delivery person actually forgot one! Clowns. Anyway, arrive back from a week away and get to work replacing a crook front L/H wheel bearing. The new one had a magnetic thingy imbedded in it I hope this is meant to face the ABS reluctor ring assembly because that's the way it went in. Also removed the drive shaft and the diff' oil seal replacing both - fingers crossed I've sorted an annoying oil weep.
Took the FL for a wee test run, only a couple of hundred metres and there is a rubbing noise - like a piece of plastic rubbing the tread. Grovelling underneath again and the reluctor ring seems to be rubbing on something. I pulled the ABS sensor out a bit - it didn't sort it. Now I've got the ABS, TC & HDC lamps on. There seems to be a even amount of space between the reluctor ring and the cast hub housing. Can the ABS ring be out-of-round slightly?
Took the FL for a wee test run, only a couple of hundred metres and there is a rubbing noise - like a piece of plastic rubbing the tread. Grovelling underneath again and the reluctor ring seems to be rubbing on something. I pulled the ABS sensor out a bit - it didn't sort it. Now I've got the ABS, TC & HDC lamps on. There seems to be a even amount of space between the reluctor ring and the cast hub housing. Can the ABS ring be out-of-round slightly?
spent 3 hours on wednesday night in the pouring rain wrestling off the old track rod ends and fitting the new ones - took it for an alignment yesterday - took it for mot today. It only f-in passed! emissions were over so the tester rev'd the nuts off it till it came within spec, bless him.
It appears therefore to be beer o'clock
Cheers
Simon
It appears therefore to be beer o'clock
Cheers
Simon
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That'll be the cat on the way out. If you tap it, I expect you'll hear the substrate inside is loose.
At least it's past for another year.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Just drove it. Ignored all the minor problems but did look forward to fitting new drop links and ARB bushes next week to cure some of the gremlins. Blanking out the issues did allow me to enjoy the drive.
well, the MIL likes to light up every now and then and the code it calls is cat not running at full efficiency so I did kind of know. I just clear the code and keep on truckin but I think you're right that it will need to be replaced by next AprilThat'll be the cat on the way out. If you tap it, I expect you'll hear the substrate inside is loose.
At least it's past for another year.
Cheers
Simon
Geodark
Active Member
So far I have replaced the crank case breather with the BMW one. The old filter was like a lump of tar! Now need to try and remove the last of the nuts hold the under tray on so I can see if I can track down this fuel leak! Have a feeling it's the HP pump. If so I guess I will be ordering a sprocket tool and refurb kit later!
Right, finishing my cuppa and going to see if I can get this last stubborn one off!
Right, finishing my cuppa and going to see if I can get this last stubborn one off!
RossRobObey
Active Member
Driven it!
Last edited:
