kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Yeah. I am probably going to go down this route..
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/speaker-replacement.220630/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/speaker-replacement.220630/
Alibro
Well-Known Member
That's a good idea. I spaced mine out with a ring cut out of plywood and screwed into the metal door skin.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I've fitted 4 of these.
http://uk.jvc.com/car-entertainment/16cm-speakers/CS-J620X/
There're not the last word in HiFi, but are pretty good. They are also cheap and a direct fit, save for drilling 4 3mm mounting holes.
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monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Well after a long hiatus, due to working for the last 5 months abroad. I'm getting the freelander back on the road!
Today I picked up the new front calipers, tomorrow I plan to fit them. I also dropped off the 15" steel wheels at the wheel refurbishers for a dip in black. Tomorrow I will be picking up a roof rack for the freelander and fit some rivnuts to the bonnet to fit the bonnet bag, alongside fitting the new calipers and sorting the landy out for the MOT next week.
Today I picked up the new front calipers, tomorrow I plan to fit them. I also dropped off the 15" steel wheels at the wheel refurbishers for a dip in black. Tomorrow I will be picking up a roof rack for the freelander and fit some rivnuts to the bonnet to fit the bonnet bag, alongside fitting the new calipers and sorting the landy out for the MOT next week.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Today, it's not so much what have I done to my freelander, but more a case of what I've decided I'm going to do. Today I have noted down the list of jobs hopefully to be completed over the xmas break.
1) fit VCU
2) flush cooling system and fit thermostat mod
3) clean and waxoyl the underside (particularly the fuel tank cradle)
4) fix passenger side rear window regulator
5) boot door preventative maintenance (clean inside, lube mechanism, check for corrosion around door handle etc)
6) fit new speakers
7) spotlights!
I wonder how much I will actually get done!
1) fit VCU
2) flush cooling system and fit thermostat mod
3) clean and waxoyl the underside (particularly the fuel tank cradle)
4) fix passenger side rear window regulator
5) boot door preventative maintenance (clean inside, lube mechanism, check for corrosion around door handle etc)
6) fit new speakers
7) spotlights!
I wonder how much I will actually get done!
monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Today has been a very productive day with my freelander.
Changed the calipers on both front brakes.
New drop links for the front,
Drained and filled the rear diff oil.
Lubed up the clutch controĺ arm.
New spark plugs.
New HT leads.
Cleaned and reprotected the brake lines.
Cleaned off the rust thats building on the chassis and reprotected.
New exhaust rubber.
Next thing, this week, hopefully my wheels will be ready from refurbish and new kingpin mud tyres will be here ready for the snow and mud I will inflict on the freelander.
Changed the calipers on both front brakes.
New drop links for the front,
Drained and filled the rear diff oil.
Lubed up the clutch controĺ arm.
New spark plugs.
New HT leads.
Cleaned and reprotected the brake lines.
Cleaned off the rust thats building on the chassis and reprotected.
New exhaust rubber.
Next thing, this week, hopefully my wheels will be ready from refurbish and new kingpin mud tyres will be here ready for the snow and mud I will inflict on the freelander.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Did the same myself during the week. Forgot to warm the engine first but thankfully had no problems getting them out.Fitted a new set of glow plugs in my TD4
Having read reports of then snapping off I warmed the engine up well first, but when the first one gave I was still sure it was about to snap - but it just unscrewed, followed by the other 3. Quite an anti-climax really
Elv73
Member
Busy weekend on my wifes new 2005 TD4.
Changed the engine oil (fully synthetic 5w40) and filter
Changed the PCV breather filter (it was black and rock hard so god knows when it was last changed....if ever!)
Removed the EGR and fitted a bypass
Fitted Fuel Pressure Regulator Overlay Repair Loom
Bloody cold work as I was outside and the temp never got above -1 but satisfying to get all the jobs done in one go
Just got to order a set of glow plugs now cos its getting a puff of white / grey smoke and diesel smell for a few seconds after starting now that the temps are down below zero so I think one of the plugs is knackered.
Changed the engine oil (fully synthetic 5w40) and filter
Changed the PCV breather filter (it was black and rock hard so god knows when it was last changed....if ever!)
Removed the EGR and fitted a bypass
Fitted Fuel Pressure Regulator Overlay Repair Loom
Bloody cold work as I was outside and the temp never got above -1 but satisfying to get all the jobs done in one go
Just got to order a set of glow plugs now cos its getting a puff of white / grey smoke and diesel smell for a few seconds after starting now that the temps are down below zero so I think one of the plugs is knackered.
Rich in Vancouver
Well-Known Member
Nodge,
I have a dead speaker in my Hippo too.
I see the ones you linked to above are 16cm.
Are those meant to fit a facelift? Not sure if all FL1s use the same diameter.
I have a dead speaker in my Hippo too.
I see the ones you linked to above are 16cm.
Are those meant to fit a facelift? Not sure if all FL1s use the same diameter.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
My SE is a 2005 facelift.
All FL1 speakers are the same however.
The speakers I linked aren't an official replacement. They do fit correctly in the aperture in the door, but will need the screw holes drilled in the frame. You'll need to change the electrical connectors too, but that's an easy job. Apply some grease or petroleum jelly to the connectors to prevent corrosion.
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Rich in Vancouver
Well-Known Member
Cheers, thanks for the info.
MollyNomad
Well-Known Member
Didn't do this today but the night before last(been travelling since)
So, a couple of days back I go to remove some presents from the rear of the TD4. The rear door clicked but wouldn't open. Diagnosis, window stuck to door rubber because of ice (-3 degrees)...Standard stuff I guess. Any way after dowsing the window in de icer, starting the car up to 'warm it up inside'(pre heater came on etc) I judged that all was okay to open the door....No joy so inside I went to lower the window using the switch.....Yes, the mechanism lowered but left the glass where it was. Now, I was not aware that the mechanism had 'dropped' at this point and because of other things to do left the car(we removed the presents via the seats)...My daughter called me later...'Dad, my car doesn't have a back window anymore'...
It had obviously fallen inside the door frame..oh the joy and it being dark at this point, now quite a bit colder and me leaving first thing in the morning to fly back to Spain I had to go down to her gaff, remove the door panel, get the glass out and then assess, replace glass and connect everything up. Luckily my 'restoration' van has everything in it so that made my life a bit easier...My daughter, despite being 7 months 'up the duff' helped out and her smaller hands helped to reconnect the spade connector (brown lead) to the connector on the rear window. A couple of tests and the window was back in, although requiring slight adjustment. Another job for when I return this Christmas. The list is long but hopefully nothing else will join it before I get back. First time I have been 'in there' and obviously had to do some research whilst having a 'brew' mid job....intend to re calibrate after the minor adjustments and also have read that there is a bit of slack in the actuator cable that pulls the window down(or some such thing) which may help to make that action a bit more positive.
One thing that won't be attended to during the Christmas hols and that is sorting the sunroof. It leaks but also doesn't open. Have bought a repair kit that looks a bit 'cheapo' but anyone with experience or advice on the sunroof repair process is more than welcome to 'chip in' and also anything regards working on the rear door.
So, a couple of days back I go to remove some presents from the rear of the TD4. The rear door clicked but wouldn't open. Diagnosis, window stuck to door rubber because of ice (-3 degrees)...Standard stuff I guess. Any way after dowsing the window in de icer, starting the car up to 'warm it up inside'(pre heater came on etc) I judged that all was okay to open the door....No joy so inside I went to lower the window using the switch.....Yes, the mechanism lowered but left the glass where it was. Now, I was not aware that the mechanism had 'dropped' at this point and because of other things to do left the car(we removed the presents via the seats)...My daughter called me later...'Dad, my car doesn't have a back window anymore'...
It had obviously fallen inside the door frame..oh the joy and it being dark at this point, now quite a bit colder and me leaving first thing in the morning to fly back to Spain I had to go down to her gaff, remove the door panel, get the glass out and then assess, replace glass and connect everything up. Luckily my 'restoration' van has everything in it so that made my life a bit easier...My daughter, despite being 7 months 'up the duff' helped out and her smaller hands helped to reconnect the spade connector (brown lead) to the connector on the rear window. A couple of tests and the window was back in, although requiring slight adjustment. Another job for when I return this Christmas. The list is long but hopefully nothing else will join it before I get back. First time I have been 'in there' and obviously had to do some research whilst having a 'brew' mid job....intend to re calibrate after the minor adjustments and also have read that there is a bit of slack in the actuator cable that pulls the window down(or some such thing) which may help to make that action a bit more positive.
One thing that won't be attended to during the Christmas hols and that is sorting the sunroof. It leaks but also doesn't open. Have bought a repair kit that looks a bit 'cheapo' but anyone with experience or advice on the sunroof repair process is more than welcome to 'chip in' and also anything regards working on the rear door.
MollyNomad
Well-Known Member
Nodge,My SE is a 2005 facelift.
All FL1 speakers are the same however.
The speakers I linked aren't an official replacement. They do fit correctly in the aperture in the door, but will need the screw holes drilled in the frame. You'll need to change the electrical connectors too, but that's an easy job. Apply some grease or petroleum jelly to the connectors to prevent corrosion.
Does that mean my 'Harmon Kardon' speakers in the HSE TD4 are only that in name and the same as a lowly SE (albeit a 2.5V6)....Mine do vibrate a bit in the drivers door..think a previous owner has been listening to 50Cent?
Elv73
Member
Not today as im at work but yesterday - changed the fuel filter and glow plugs .
Fuel filter carrier was a bit of a pain to get out as the bolt heads where pretty corroded but plenty of plus gas and they came out ok in the end. Fuel filter was tight but came out pretty easy by putting an extension bar with a long reach socket over the fuel pipe barb / connector, resting it on the edge of the work bench and giving it a couple of taps with a rubber mallet.
Glow plugs took almost half a can of plus gas before they would move. One came out really easy and the other 3 all creaked and groaned as they where coming out and I was convinced one would snap. Just kept giving them a quarter turn then spray with the plus gas and eventually they all came out in tact thankfully.
Not so good was that I found out that injector 3 seems to be blocked / knackered. I have a 500 mile round trip this weekend to deliver Christmas presents so im going to bung a can of injector cleaner in on the 250 mile trip there and another on the way back to see if that helps before ordering a replacement.
.Fuel filter carrier was a bit of a pain to get out as the bolt heads where pretty corroded but plenty of plus gas and they came out ok in the end. Fuel filter was tight but came out pretty easy by putting an extension bar with a long reach socket over the fuel pipe barb / connector, resting it on the edge of the work bench and giving it a couple of taps with a rubber mallet.
Glow plugs took almost half a can of plus gas before they would move. One came out really easy and the other 3 all creaked and groaned as they where coming out and I was convinced one would snap. Just kept giving them a quarter turn then spray with the plus gas and eventually they all came out in tact thankfully.
Not so good was that I found out that injector 3 seems to be blocked / knackered. I have a 500 mile round trip this weekend to deliver Christmas presents so im going to bung a can of injector cleaner in on the 250 mile trip there and another on the way back to see if that helps before ordering a replacement.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the slow response. The broadband has been down, so I missed the notification.
The HK speakers are an improved version of the factoy speakers. They have a more powerful voice coil and better polymer cone. However they still have a plastic basket and tiny magnet, so won't be much of an improvement over the standard driver.
Rattling in the door is normally internal door fittings buzzing about inside. This is easy to address with some self-adhesive neoprene sheet, stuck in contact area's.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I wanted to put this on its own thread, but the site is having problems again and won't let me create a new one.
I took the old girl for her twice yearly WOF (MOT) today. It failed on rear brake inbalance - the readings scribbled on the form are 130 / 190. It didn't fail on hand brake.
I've had a search around the forum for similar faults and, although I'm sure it must be in there somewhere, I couldn't find any posts about it. So I'm going to replace the shoes and make sure nothing's siezed and looks OK. I've taken the drum off on 1 side to have a look before I go get the parts, and I'm wondering if I should replace the cylinders as well. Around the cylinder I inspected was a layer of black slime/goo which is the brake dust suspended in "something". The only thing I can think of is brake fluid. I can't actually see any leaks though and I'm not losing any fluid.
So what's people's thoughts, would it be wise to replace the cylinders or am I just making work for myself and a bit of goo is to be expected?
Unfiortunately, the LZ site also won't let me upload any pics. When I tried to embed a pic yesterday it just showed the old red cross icon for a failed link, so I'll embed some and also provide links to them that should hopefully work. I had rubbed quite a bit of the gunk off before taking these pics.
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Brake_1.jpg
...
...
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Brake_2.jpg
...
...
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Brake_3.jpg
...
I took the old girl for her twice yearly WOF (MOT) today. It failed on rear brake inbalance - the readings scribbled on the form are 130 / 190. It didn't fail on hand brake.
I've had a search around the forum for similar faults and, although I'm sure it must be in there somewhere, I couldn't find any posts about it. So I'm going to replace the shoes and make sure nothing's siezed and looks OK. I've taken the drum off on 1 side to have a look before I go get the parts, and I'm wondering if I should replace the cylinders as well. Around the cylinder I inspected was a layer of black slime/goo which is the brake dust suspended in "something". The only thing I can think of is brake fluid. I can't actually see any leaks though and I'm not losing any fluid.
So what's people's thoughts, would it be wise to replace the cylinders or am I just making work for myself and a bit of goo is to be expected?
Unfiortunately, the LZ site also won't let me upload any pics. When I tried to embed a pic yesterday it just showed the old red cross icon for a failed link, so I'll embed some and also provide links to them that should hopefully work. I had rubbed quite a bit of the gunk off before taking these pics.
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Brake_1.jpg
...
...
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Brake_2.jpg
...
...
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Brake_3.jpg
...
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
Nice to see someone with the same style rear brake mechanism as mine, without all the extra self-adjust gubbins.
I did the cylinders on mine as it seemed churlish not to - mind you they were knackered. Easy job as long as you buy replacement bolts as mine were like cheese.
I did the cylinders on mine as it seemed churlish not to - mind you they were knackered. Easy job as long as you buy replacement bolts as mine were like cheese.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
@GrumpyGel .
Your best changing the entire assembly including the drums. The cylinders are creeping fluid and looking at the wear on the shoes, your drums are also worn.
Your best changing the entire assembly including the drums. The cylinders are creeping fluid and looking at the wear on the shoes, your drums are also worn.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the replies. I sort of answered my own question when I opened up the other side and it was completely dry...
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Brake_4.jpg
...
So I'll replace both cylinders - which is a bit of a shame because then I'm into aftermarket and I bet they don't last 18 years!
I forgot to check the drums and I've put them back together again now to drive down to the parts shop this morning! Suppose I might as well swap them out to.
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Brake_4.jpg
...
So I'll replace both cylinders - which is a bit of a shame because then I'm into aftermarket and I bet they don't last 18 years!
I forgot to check the drums and I've put them back together again now to drive down to the parts shop this morning! Suppose I might as well swap them out to.
