GrumpyGel said:
Refitted the old lower tie bar to see if it stops the vibration. Took it for a drive around the block but not sure if its cured anything as the engine was warm, but I think not. Its got to the point where I'm not sure how much the car should shake!

(this might give a clue as to 1 of the bits in the compo thread I just started :) )
Click to expand...

The car shouldn't shake or vibrate, and definitely not enough to make the rear view mirror wobble. It sounds like there's engine to body contact to me.
 
Finally got the engine back together after the HP pump rebuild. The good news is the engine is running ok. The bad new is, the bloody pump is still leaking. It's got a small drip, presumably from a pump head seal. It's not leaking much though, much less than before I took it apart. Just a drip every 20 seconds or so, but it's still a leak. I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm thinking of getting a replacement pump and rebuild that.
 
Nodge68 said:
Finally got the engine back together after the HP pump rebuild. The good news is the engine is running ok. The bad new is, the bloody pump is still leaking. It's got a small drip, presumably from a pump head seal. It's not leaking much though, much less than before I took it apart. Just a drip every 20 seconds or so, but it's still a leak. I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm thinking of getting a replacement pump and rebuild that.
Click to expand...

Hi Nodge68
I think NeilTD4 has got a tread on here '' For sale 5 years worth of 2004 freelander 1 td4 parts''
im sure he's listed a HP pump which he thinks may have been rebuilt, I've had several bits off him all been excellent
 
freelandy2004 said:
Hi Nodge68
I think NeilTD4 has got a tread on here '' For sale 5 years worth of 2004 freelander 1 td4 parts''
im sure he's listed a HP pump which he thinks may have been rebuilt, I've had several bits off him all been excellent
Click to expand...
I'd read that in the For Sale section. I've posted over there.
 
Spent all day fitting a Calix engine warmer, not the easiest task I've done, but it is done now. It was a really tight fitting the pipes but got there in the end. And a bit scary having to drill 2 x 25mm holes in to my pride and joy but I'm sure I'll appreciate getting into a warm car on these freezing Swedish winters.
 
Just booked in with a local LR guy for this. Yikes!!!

IRD oil draining and inspecting for signs of wear in the IRD. New oil to go back in.
CV joints and output bearing to be checked to see if they are the source of motorway speed vibration and the reason for O/S driveshaft seal leaking. Replacements and new seal to be supplied and fitted where required.
Rear diff oil draining and inspecting for signs of wear. New oil to go back in and new front oil seal to be supplied and fitted.
Refitting of propshaft with a soon to be supplied Bell Engineering recon VCU + new bearings (if the above goes okay).
Autobox oil change

Wish me luck.
 
After many weeks of shaking and vibrations after changing the engine mount in my L Series - I put the original 1 back on tonight.

I had got to the stage of wondering if I was imagining the vibrations, but after putting the original 18 year old mount back on - the car is transformed back to fantastic - like driving a Roller :)

So boys and girls, if your MOT man says your engine mount is knackered - get a 2nd opinion, cos when I took mine off it looked brand new. The Bearmach one I put on was absolutely atrocious. While changing the mount I also thought it wise to change the lower tie bar. So it cost me $200, a load of effort, a terrible car for weeks - and at the end of the day I'm back to the original parts and the car's driving great :)

All set now for our 700km road trip over the Alps to the West Coast next weekend :)

It took me 90 minutes to change the mount - quite impressed with myself! That includes getting all the tools together and packing away afterwards - so probably not much longer than an hour to do the job.

Here's the Bearmach mount I just took off - only been on the car a short time and its munted. The car was shaking from the moment it went in - so I'm sure the geometry or materials in it are just wrong.

20171108_205709.jpg
 
GrumpyGel said:
After many weeks of shaking and vibrations after changing the engine mount in my L Series - I put the original 1 back on tonight.

I had got to the stage of wondering if I was imagining the vibrations, but after putting the original 18 year old mount back on - the car is transformed back to fantastic - like driving a Roller :)

So boys and girls, if your MOT man says your engine mount is knackered - get a 2nd opinion, cos when I took mine off it looked brand new. The Bearmach one I put on was absolutely atrocious. While changing the mount I also thought it wise to change the lower tie bar. So it cost me $200, a load of effort, a terrible car for weeks - and at the end of the day I'm back to the original parts and the car's driving great :)

All set now for our 700km road trip over the Alps to the West Coast next weekend :)

It took me 90 minutes to change the mount - quite impressed with myself! That includes getting all the tools together and packing away afterwards - so probably not much longer than an hour to do the job.

Here's the Bearmach mount I just took off - only been on the car a short time and its munted. The car was shaking from the moment it went in - so I'm sure the geometry or materials in it are just wrong.

View attachment 134642
Click to expand...

Glad you're sorted GG. It looks like the vibrating mount has been rubbing on something, hard enough to damage and wear the rubber (circled). This could have transferred engine vibrations to the body.
20171108_092510.jpg
 
Changed a brake light bulb. Managed it without the help of the Haynes manual or asking questions here. Very proud of myself. Might have a go at changing liners now I'm on a roll.

Col
 
My sons 1.8 passed its mot straight through :eek::eek:I got him to buy a rear exhaust and a fuel cradle turns out he didn't need them my son in law welded the exhaust , cleaned and painted his original cradle I don't think I am in his good books at the mo:oops::D if it had been me I would have changed them shows how much I know . It helps to have some one in the trade
 
Well after spending 2 weeks replacing the clutch, flywheel, gearbox, IRD (new one had broken housing so swapped the internals into a pre2001 housing!) and almost ending up smashing it to pieces through frustration.... My trusty 1.8 has another years MOT! :eek:

Headlights were given a very thorough going over and checked for height, cut off, dazzle and everything. Passed all the tests easily and almost blinded the examiner when he checked main beams :D




 
Lots of MOT passes ^^^. Happy FL days indeed.

New tyres this week, and I've just found out my IRD is in tip top nick. New rear diff oil seal is going in tomorrow along with a fresh lot of auto box fluid. Recon VCU next. An expensive few days but all good stuff. Now the small matter of an oil leak at the back of the engine, somewhere around the turbo area. Any pointers folks?
 
This evening I spent 72 days putting my under tray back on. This is an improvement, as last time it took 6 months and I nearly died of starvation trying to get it back on.

It was not only installed massively quicker this evening, but I drew no blood, uttered very few naughty words and....... for the first time in many many years, it has all the bolts and screws installed :)

Its not perfect, as to get the outside front bolts in I had to fore go securing the lower points of the A Bar, but I did get them wedged in under the bolts' washers.

Also gave the car a proper wash... rinse - shampoo (well with washing up liquid) - rinse - shami.

After all that it was way to late and dark to take any pics to post, so here's one from the weekend before last taking the dog for a walk down the Waimak. A couple of days later, there was a "bit of rain" up in the mountains which came down across the plains and by the city as a flash flood. 2 cars stranded out on these stones with occupants clinging to the roofs rescued by life guards..

https://www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/news/north-canterbury/98691477/people-stuck-on-car-roof-in-canterburys-waimakariri-river

... and 17 kayakers rescued further upstream by the Alpine Jet...

http://www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/ne...rs-rescued-from-canterburys-waimakariri-river

Not really sure what all the fuss was about 'cos it only got to 800 cumecs, the river regularly goes over 2,000.

IMG_20171105_162552 - Copy.jpg
 
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Popped down to one of the local scrap yards today. They had a rather tidy looking TD4 in. I was only after an O/S splash guard but came away with a rear ash tray/auxiliary socket for £5. Was pleased with that! The car was pretty tidy though. It was obviously just in. It still had the keys in (two sets, with fobs), battery etc. The battery wouldn't start it but all the electrics worked. It didn't feel right taking stuff off it as it still seemed like someone's car!

Anyway...
I thought I'd mention it as there looked to be quite a lot of serviceable bits on it. All the windows worked and it had a set of LR podded fog lights on it if anyone is after a set of those. Under the bonnet was pretty clean too. Hoses etc all looked good. It was a 53 plate silver SE, manual. 100k on the clock. Worth a trip for any Cornwall people after some bits.

It's at Drew's, United Downs.
 
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