Alibro said:
Strangely, my 04 car had a nasty hole in it but the 02 car is immaculate. :confused:
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The corrosion appears to start at the bottom mounting hole. It's possible that the handle alignment doesn't quite match the holes in the door. This alignment error likely chips the paint around the bottom hole, starting the rusting process, unseen. One day, the handle fails allowing the corrosion to be seen.
 
Picked up a 2000 model Honda HRV my sister has bought.
Got to be said - its a very nice drive. I know these have even more of a gayboy soft roader image than a freelander, but I really liked it.
Full time all wheel drive apparently uses a clutch pack in the rear diff to disengage drive when not needed, so its really FWD most of the time and the rear axle kicks in when needed. I booted it on some wet junctions on the way home and it just grips and goes - no fuss. No VCU to worry about and from what I read online the whole drivetrain is pretty bombproof.
Its the Vtec engine, so revvy with no low down torque, so I would image off roading in it will require high revs and clutch slip, which is what I really dislike about the freelander.
I have to say though - its on road manners seemed superb despite it running crummy old no brand tyres.
If they had a higher tow capacity I would be tempted.......
 
Body coloured mirrors and bonnet pod.
SAM_2653.JPG
SAM_2654.JPG
 
Full size intercooler, stainless steel pipework, silicone hoses, induction kit. All plastic air intake ducting completely removed.
 
Many years ago I acquired a genuine carbon fibre intake from on of TH famous M-Sport V 6 Freelanders. It adorned my own V6 for years but before I fitted it I had a mould taken from it to produce another..this clone intake was bought off of me by Freelander Storm who had it modified into a 1 piece set up and a mould was taken from that. They sold a few but mainly abroad I eventually bought the mould and had around 15 made.These all sold - but mostly at a loss to me so no more have been produced. The mould sits in the shed now gathering dust, along with the original modified clone intake.
 
Nodge68 said:
I'd love an Aux input in my head unit. I suspect that a transition type is the easiest option.
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If I was to do it again [I probably will] I would tie into the CD Changer input. Using the tape input [post pre-amp] is pretty straight forward though if you are handy with an iron. There is even a handy hole on the back of the case which you can feed cables through or even pop a socket in there :)
 
h4rri said:
If I was to do it again [I probably will] I would tie into the CD Changer input. Using the tape input [post pre-amp] is pretty straight forward though if you are handy with an iron. There is even a handy hole on the back of the case which you can feed cables through or even pop a socket in there :)
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Unfortunately I have the HiLine Multi CD head unit. This is great as I can load it with 6 CDs. It's not too flexible for modifying though.
 
Nodge68 said:
Unfortunately I have the HiLine Multi CD head unit. This is great as I can load it with 6 CDs. It's not too flexible for modifying though.
Click to expand...

I have a 4 CD in dash model in my Signum and that's do-able. Shame you aren't closer we could scope it out.
 
Today I thought I'd find out what the knocking from the front is all about. I changed both ARB drop links and the offside track rod end. One drop link was obviously shot but the other is fine. That has been put into stock for future use if needed. I changed the rod end because the one on the car had a split boot. I also have some scrubbing on the inner edge of the front tyres and the steering wheel is off to a left. I noticed that the offside rod end had been screwed in more than nearside one. This would give too much tow out and make the steering wheel left of central. Fingers crossed my guestimate isn't far off for now. All the adjustments are centred now.
 
Fitted a new radio that will bluetooth to my phone and will play radio from my phone cause the aerial is still pants. need to replace the coax when I can be bothered.
Tomorrow it anti roll bar drop links.
 
Nodge68 said:
Today I thought I'd find out what the knocking from the front is all about. I changed both ARB drop links and the offside track rod end. One drop link was obviously shot but the other is fine. That has been put into stock for future use if needed. I changed the rod end because the one on the car had a split boot. I also have some scrubbing on the inner edge of the front tyres and the steering wheel is off to a left. I noticed that the offside rod end had been screwed in more than nearside one. This would give too much tow out and make the steering wheel left of central. Fingers crossed my guestimate isn't far off for now. All the adjustments are centred now.
Click to expand...
Did it cure the knock? I replaced TRE and drop link on mine but the knock is still there so going to replace the wishbone next.
 
Done the drop links, no more knocks.
Wanted to fit the dog guard and found the rear carpet wet. So carpet now out and drying.
The floor has started to rust so carpet not going back in until rust removed and and painted with POR 15 paint
 
Alibro said:
Did it cure the knock? I replaced TRE and drop link on mine but the knock is still there so going to replace the wishbone next.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. It cured the light and twangy type noise. Although it has now revealed a heavier knock from the front offside. I suspect it's just the strut or top mount knocking. I'm not going to address this just yet as it's not bad enough. I'm probably just me being really picky.
 
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