Tested my VCU and got a time of approximately 40 seconds for 45° with a 1.2 Meter extension and a 5Kg weight. I'm happy that it's not to bad yet and all be refurbishing the VCU in the summer anyway.
I had to bodge a repair on the tail door handle as it came off in my hand. Only to discover that a previous bodge wasn't very good.
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I also discovered why the heated rear window didn't work. So i repaired that while I was sorting out the handle.
 
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I have done the Renault stat mod today, could not resist cleaning the EGR valve whilst it was off.
Just a point for people to note, the plastic fitting that bolts to the block is a bit delicate and would benefit from a new seal. trying to remove the top hose I broke the seal to thr block and to be 100% sure its not going to leak I am going get a new seal and fit it.
The photo is from a part from my spare TD4 engine but you can see the seal needs replacing
 
Question for you all. The centre bolt is missing from the front engine cover. There is a bracket but insert is missing. Anyone have a pic of the correct insert so I can go get one.
Hate missing bolts . OCD and all that.
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View attachment 96986 View attachment 96985 I have done the Renault stat mod today, could not resist cleaning the EGR valve whilst it was off.
Just a point for people to note, the plastic fitting that bolts to the block is a bit delicate and would benefit from a new seal. trying to remove the top hose I broke the seal to thr block and to be 100% sure its not going to leak I am going get a new seal and fit it.
The photo is from a part from my spare TD4 engine but you can see the seal needs replacing

Pointless trying to change the seal on that one, the inner lip is broken so the new seal will slip out of place as you tighten it.
Mine failed a few months back. Chuck that part number thats stamped on the plastic into ebay and there are hundreds of new ones for sale; the part seems to be common to many BMW engines and fails often.
 
The part that n the pic is not from the car but a spare engine I have. I did notice it was cream crackered .
Another Question.
I tried to remove the Injecters from td4 spare engine I have they are well and truely stuck, any tricks or tips peeps
 
The part that n the pic is not from the car but a spare engine I have. I did notice it was cream crackered .
Another Question.
I tried to remove the Injecters from td4 spare engine I have they are well and truely stuck, any tricks or tips peeps
I've not done this myself, but I hear from legend that you should undo the retaining nuts a half-turn, then crank the engine over (fuel pump relay pulled out). Repeat until the injector is loose. Don't completely remove the nuts as the injector could go flying...
 
Oh and I changed the engine oil and filter. It never ceases to amaze me, just how different any engine sounds when it's got nice fresh oil in it. I've no idea how long the oil had been in my TD4 but it sounds lovely with fresh oil in there.
 
Tested my VCU and got a time of approximately 40 seconds for 45° with a 1.2 Meter extension and a 5Kg weight. I'm happy that it's not to bad yet and all be refurbishing the VCU in the summer anyway.
I had to bodge a repair on the tail door handle as it came off in my hand. Only to discover that a previous bodge wasn't very good. View attachment 96983
View attachment 96982 I also discovered why the heated rear window didn't work. So i repaired that while I was sorting out the handle.
LOL, Had to bodge my own handle 6 months ago. Also had to replace a chunk of door which had rotted away.
 
LOL, Had to bodge my own handle 6 months ago. Also had to replace a chunk of door which had rotted away.
I've got some rust too. I'm thinking of replacing the standard handle with the ine that is combined with a number plate mount. This way I can repair the metalwork without worrying to much about the finished look.
 
I've got some rust too. I'm thinking of replacing the standard handle with the ine that is combined with a number plate mount. This way I can repair the metalwork without worrying to much about the finished look.
I ground the hole back as best I could with a dremel and cut a piece of metal just small enough to go through the hole (it is elongated) then held it with a magnet and pop riveted it in place so I didn't burn the paint in the area by welding. Then sprayed with etch primer and covered with lacquer to help stop rust. If you bend down and look up you can see it but otherwise it's invisible.
 
Mine will need similar treatment. Pretty bad for 05 model really. I'm sure that a badly fitting handle doesn't help the rust issue. I think the primary cause is paint damage around the mounting holes. This is then kept damp by the seal, rusting unseen until the handle breaks off.
 
I can see signs of rust discolouring the paint on the underside of the rear handle too. But hoping that it stays affixed until the spring, when I can make it a job to attend to, on a more inviting warmer sunny day. Virtually every hippo I looked at last year, ahead of buying mine, suffered from this problem. (one such vehicle was described by the seller as being in immaculate condition*, which when pulled away from the wall it was parked against, revealed the handle was being held in by two large wood screws, that had been driven in through the plastic, and had a large rust hole between the handle and numberplate. Apparently the owner had forgotten it was there. (A wasted 170 mile round trip! - along with the others. *immaculate condition... then when you turn up to see more than usual wear and tear, but damage, or things not working, you get told by the seller "it is immaculate condition for a x year old car". arghh! )

Anyway, in the meantime, I got my brakes sorted with new discs/calipers/pads/flexihoses on the front, and new cylinders on the rear, (don’t you just love manipulating the larger springs onto those shoes, when you can’t feel your fingers from the cold!). Rear backplates on the drums were not holding the cylinders entirely flush, having suffered from corrosion, and I think at some point, someone yanking them, so I used some silicone instant gasket to try keep water from creeping in.

New exhaust box on too, which was more straightforward job, after cutting the rusted clamp screw off. So after being three weeks taking up space in the garage, was able to take it out for a drive yesterday afternoon. :) (upon returning home, spent a further hour clearing all the crud and soot that had flaked onto the garage floor in doing these jobs!, and cleaning/tidying all the tools that had taken a careful three weeks to scatter everywhere).

Also tried the new Pioneer DAB radio I got at Christmas, just FM mode for the moment, until I get a new aerial. But even so, the reception is an improvement. I’ve lost the steering wheel controls for the moment until I sort out one of those adapters. Re the aerial, I’m going to try and avoid using a windscreen mounted one, and to see how easy it is to replace the roof aerial with a combined DAB/FM one by taking out the headlining (3 door), which looks easier to do than on many cars. (I could be wrong of course!).

MOT looming next month, so will continue to get those brakes bedded in, and make sure everything is as well as it can be ahead of testing.

Jim
 
4Bee4Bee,
The rear cylinders not sitting flush is due to the corrosion of the cylinder distorting the back plate. I undid the bolts and after some time rotated the back plate. I then planished the plate flat using a small lump hammer as the back weight. Time served sheetmetal worker so easy for. me. if you need any advise then I will try to help. Both my friends hippo and mine were all the same, so thats 3, cannot be a coincidence.
 
Mine will need similar treatment. Pretty bad for 05 model really. I'm sure that a badly fitting handle doesn't help the rust issue. I think the primary cause is paint damage around the mounting holes. This is then kept damp by the seal, rusting unseen until the handle breaks off.
Strangely, my 04 car had a nasty hole in it but the 02 car is immaculate. :confused:
 

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