JC600
Well-Known Member
Welcome mate, parcel shelves were a optional extra....but only a rigid parcel shelf will fit the 3 door.
Welcome mate, parcel shelves were a optional extra....but only a rigid parcel shelf will fit the 3 door.
Pluribus
Active Member
Hi Nodge
Its the dreaded 1.8 K Series engine. No smartphone, just a crappy PAYG brick. My wife is borrowing a camera from work today though so I should be able to put a pic on this evening.
Ian
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with the K series although not many will agree with me on that!! It may pop the odd HG but that is relatively cheap to fix.
Pics will help identify the mistory pipe.
If you want to fit cruise control I suspect you will need to use one of the universal type kits available as the 1.8 was never factory fitted with it iirc.
Pluribus
Active Member
Thanks Nodge, I'll take a look at those. I didnt think the miracle rust changer stuff was real...
I agree there is nothing wrong with the k-series, at least there wasnt until the starter motor fell off on its last trip out... since then its been sat forlornly on the drive awaiting overhaul...
I agree there is nothing wrong with the k-series, at least there wasnt until the starter motor fell off on its last trip out... since then its been sat forlornly on the drive awaiting overhaul...
Welcome mate, parcel shelves were a optional extra....but only a rigid parcel shelf will fit the 3 door.
in 2006 i had a td4 3door that had a shelf and was a flappy one
was already fitted when i got it
my current l series one has a hard self.. just wish it would stay down and not jump about when going over bumps or out lol
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Bilt Humber do a rust converter which is amazing. Hydrate 80 it's called. It's miles better than any other rust converter I've used over the last 20 years.
My l series has the hard shelf, it has 2 bungy type elasticated straps on the bottom that hold it down when driving, have never had a problem with it bouncing around
In my experience with Hydrate 80, rust started to come back again after 6 months, so it wasn't a durable solution for me.
What is a great combination is the Deox C/Gel followed by Electrox (at least two coats) and a top coat.
I've found this to be very durable.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I've not had Hydrate 80 fail for me, not yet anyway. Deox C is good as a rust remover and the primers are good too. I find Bonda Rust Primer even better especially if applied to a blasted, ground or other heavily keyed surface.
1L Bonda Rust Primer
Pluribus
Active Member
OK, got the camera out now. This is the mysterious pipe I was talking about -
You can see in the middle of the pipe where it splits using a T junction piece. There was a rubber pipe the same width as on the other ends but I took it off to try and get a match at the local motor factors tomorrow.
The next pic shows where the other end attaches. You see the condenser type thingy just behind and under the valve fluid bottle tied to the air filter neck? It fits on the right side of that (out of shot).
One more thing, when taking these pics I noticed there seems to be something missing off the bottom right side of the block, taken a photo as best I could (below). Whats meant to be bolted in here? There are two bolt holes and it looks like there has been something there in the past, just dont know what its meant to be. Certainly not anything I have taken off or it would be in a bag in the boot waiting to go back in at a later date...
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
You can see in the middle of the pipe where it splits using a T junction piece. There was a rubber pipe the same width as on the other ends but I took it off to try and get a match at the local motor factors tomorrow.
The next pic shows where the other end attaches. You see the condenser type thingy just behind and under the valve fluid bottle tied to the air filter neck? It fits on the right side of that (out of shot).
One more thing, when taking these pics I noticed there seems to be something missing off the bottom right side of the block, taken a photo as best I could (below). Whats meant to be bolted in here? There are two bolt holes and it looks like there has been something there in the past, just dont know what its meant to be. Certainly not anything I have taken off or it would be in a bag in the boot waiting to go back in at a later date...
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
bushwwacker
Well-Known Member
Drove it a,bit, put another gallon and a half of juice in it.
Put four 15' scaff battens on top, drove a bit more, unloaded it then went to bed.
Put four 15' scaff battens on top, drove a bit more, unloaded it then went to bed.
bushwwacker
Well-Known Member
OK, got the camera out now. This is the mysterious pipe I was talking about -
You can see in the middle of the pipe where it splits using a T junction piece. There was a rubber pipe the same width as on the other ends but I took it off to try and get a match at the local motor factors tomorrow.
The next pic shows where the other end attaches. You see the condenser type thingy just behind and under the valve fluid bottle tied to the air filter neck? It fits on the right side of that (out of shot).
One more thing, when taking these pics I noticed there seems to be something missing off the bottom right side of the block, taken a photo as best I could (below). Whats meant to be bolted in here? There are two bolt holes and it looks like there has been something there in the past, just dont know what its meant to be. Certainly not anything I have taken off or it would be in a bag in the boot waiting to go back in at a later date...
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
It's the parnum trap feed to the ircum-guiser valve - careful with it.
Looks like a cheapo jubbly clip anorl -I'd change it.
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
pipes and bottle, has bottle got wires going to it as well
bushwwacker
Well-Known Member
To Pluribus.
I'm not that up on LPG systems but I can see lots of non factory pipes.
You might get a better response to your questions if you start a new thread on the subject
Is it LPG? :confused2:
Sorry, I came into this late burt it looks like a pre YA-99999 k series with the,block moused thermostat, the,rubber hose from the rocker cover looks like a crank case breather to vent gasses back into the induction system.
