Hi

First post but longtime reader! Today I just stood and look at her for a while then went inside as it was too hot to do anything else.

Very busy day yesterday. Changed the starter motor, discs and drums, calipers, front hubs, gummed and wrapped the exhaust, full engine flush, changed the oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid, gearbox oil, coolant, air filter, fuel filter, pollen filter, oil filter, and a full valet inside and out.

I needed most of it done as Freebie has sat on the drive unmoved for 2 years.

On next payday she will get 5 new shoes, a new battery and new LPG spark plugs. Payday after that she will probably get a new LPG tank.

I have also ordered some material, batting and foam to make my own sunroof bag.

Future work - retro fit cruise control, connect the heated seat wiring. I see all the wiring is there for both, just not fitted/connected.


I have a few questions I am hoping someone here can help me with.

Watching Wheeler Dealers a few days ago, Ed China was using some kind of anti rust paint which he said changed the rust into good metal. Now I am not sure if thats possible and it may have been misconstrued in the editing process but does anyone know what it was? He never mentions the name of the stuff he uses. He has used it a couple of times on different cars now. He paints it on to stop the rust then eventually primes and paints over the top of it.

Second question! I have a 2001 51 reg 3 door GS. Does anyone know whether it should come with a roller cover for the rear loadspace or a rigid parcel shelf? I tried contacting Landrover but they could not tell me and told me someone would phone me back within the hour, 3 weeks ago...

Final question! I have a small rubber pipe running from a condenser (I think) into the top left side of the injector cover. Halfway along the pipe it splits using a T piece. The downward split of the T has a rubber pipe attached but it just sits in the engine bay, not connected to anything. Does anyone know what this is for or what it should be connected to? Its been like this for the 5 years I have had it. Its an LPG dual fuel conversion so it might have something to do with that but I cant find where the "spare" bit of pipe should be attached. Sorry, I dont have a digital camera so I cant take any pics which would probably help identify it a lot...

Thanks for a great forum btw, its already helped me a lot.

Ian

Welcome mate, parcel shelves were a optional extra....but only a rigid parcel shelf will fit the 3 door. :)
 
Thanks, off to Fleabay I go for a rigid parcel shelf then! Now if I could just get the other 2 questions answered I would be a happy chappy :)
 
Hi and welcome. What engine is it? I know it's a 51 plate 3 door GS.
Do you a smartphone? That's all I use to post pictures nowadays.
 
Hi and welcome. What engine is it? I know it's a 51 plate 3 door GS.
Do you a smartphone? That's all I use to post pictures nowadays.

Hi Nodge

Its the dreaded 1.8 K Series engine. No smartphone, just a crappy PAYG brick. My wife is borrowing a camera from work today though so I should be able to put a pic on this evening.

Ian
 
Hi Nodge

Its the dreaded 1.8 K Series engine. No smartphone, just a crappy PAYG brick. My wife is borrowing a camera from work today though so I should be able to put a pic on this evening.

Ian

Nothing wrong with the K series although not many will agree with me on that!! It may pop the odd HG but that is relatively cheap to fix.
Pics will help identify the mistory pipe.
If you want to fit cruise control I suspect you will need to use one of the universal type kits available as the 1.8 was never factory fitted with it iirc.
 
Oh and most of those off the shelf type rust converters are pretty useless. I have used products by Bilt Hamber to good effect.
Products
 
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Thanks Nodge, I'll take a look at those. I didnt think the miracle rust changer stuff was real...

I agree there is nothing wrong with the k-series, at least there wasnt until the starter motor fell off on its last trip out... since then its been sat forlornly on the drive awaiting overhaul...
 
Welcome mate, parcel shelves were a optional extra....but only a rigid parcel shelf will fit the 3 door. :)

in 2006 i had a td4 3door that had a shelf and was a flappy one

was already fitted when i got it

my current l series one has a hard self.. just wish it would stay down and not jump about when going over bumps or out lol
 
Thanks Nodge, I'll take a look at those. I didnt think the miracle rust changer stuff was real...

I agree there is nothing wrong with the k-series, at least there wasnt until the starter motor fell off on its last trip out... since then its been sat forlornly on the drive awaiting overhaul...

Bilt Humber do a rust converter which is amazing. Hydrate 80 it's called. It's miles better than any other rust converter I've used over the last 20 years.
 
Brilliant, I will get some of that for my lpg tank then - only surface rust, just too lazy and knackered after the major overhaul and service a couple of days ago to do it myself with a wire brush...
 
in 2006 i had a td4 3door that had a shelf and was a flappy one

was already fitted when i got it

my current l series one has a hard self.. just wish it would stay down and not jump about when going over bumps or out lol

My l series has the hard shelf, it has 2 bungy type elasticated straps on the bottom that hold it down when driving, have never had a problem with it bouncing around :)
 
Bilt Humber do a rust converter which is amazing. Hydrate 80 it's called. It's miles better than any other rust converter I've used over the last 20 years.

In my experience with Hydrate 80, rust started to come back again after 6 months, so it wasn't a durable solution for me.

What is a great combination is the Deox C/Gel followed by Electrox (at least two coats) and a top coat.

I've found this to be very durable.
 
In my experience with Hydrate 80, rust started to come back again after 6 months, so it wasn't a durable solution for me.

What is a great combination is the Deox C/Gel followed by Electrox (at least two coats) and a top coat.

I've found this to be very durable.

I've not had Hydrate 80 fail for me, not yet anyway. Deox C is good as a rust remover and the primers are good too. I find Bonda Rust Primer even better especially if applied to a blasted, ground or other heavily keyed surface.
1L Bonda Rust Primer
 
Fitted new drive shafts left and right,
Passed the MOT,,

WoW!!!! What a difference...

Never had a Diesel go through an MOT what's a good score on the opacity test??

Mine was 1.24..
 
OK, got the camera out now. This is the mysterious pipe I was talking about -

GEDC1020.JPG


You can see in the middle of the pipe where it splits using a T junction piece. There was a rubber pipe the same width as on the other ends but I took it off to try and get a match at the local motor factors tomorrow.

The next pic shows where the other end attaches. You see the condenser type thingy just behind and under the valve fluid bottle tied to the air filter neck? It fits on the right side of that (out of shot).

GEDC1021.JPG


One more thing, when taking these pics I noticed there seems to be something missing off the bottom right side of the block, taken a photo as best I could (below). Whats meant to be bolted in here? There are two bolt holes and it looks like there has been something there in the past, just dont know what its meant to be. Certainly not anything I have taken off or it would be in a bag in the boot waiting to go back in at a later date...

GEDC1023.JPG


Any help would be greatly appreciated! :confused:
 
Drove it a,bit, put another gallon and a half of juice in it.
Put four 15' scaff battens on top, drove a bit more, unloaded it then went to bed.
 
OK, got the camera out now. This is the mysterious pipe I was talking about -

GEDC1020.JPG


You can see in the middle of the pipe where it splits using a T junction piece. There was a rubber pipe the same width as on the other ends but I took it off to try and get a match at the local motor factors tomorrow.

The next pic shows where the other end attaches. You see the condenser type thingy just behind and under the valve fluid bottle tied to the air filter neck? It fits on the right side of that (out of shot).

GEDC1021.JPG


One more thing, when taking these pics I noticed there seems to be something missing off the bottom right side of the block, taken a photo as best I could (below). Whats meant to be bolted in here? There are two bolt holes and it looks like there has been something there in the past, just dont know what its meant to be. Certainly not anything I have taken off or it would be in a bag in the boot waiting to go back in at a later date...

GEDC1023.JPG


Any help would be greatly appreciated! :confused:

It's the parnum trap feed to the ircum-guiser valve - careful with it.

Looks like a cheapo jubbly clip anorl -I'd change it.
 
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To Pluribus.
I'm not that up on LPG systems but I can see lots of non factory pipes.
You might get a better response to your questions if you start a new thread on the subject ;)
 
To Pluribus.
I'm not that up on LPG systems but I can see lots of non factory pipes.
You might get a better response to your questions if you start a new thread on the subject ;)

Is it LPG? :confused2:

Sorry, I came into this late burt it looks like a pre YA-99999 k series with the,block moused thermostat, the,rubber hose from the rocker cover looks like a crank case breather to vent gasses back into the induction system.
 

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