Swl26 said:
Currently avoiding the knocks, bangs and creaks as they're expensive, time consuming noises 😅

Finally got the illumination on the Hazard Switch to work. Unlike the pre-facelift where the bulb has its own external carrier, you have to deconstruct the switch.

Took it apart and was pleasantly surprised to find the bulb is in a removable carrier, not soldered to the board.
Using some tweezers, bent the tails to get the bulb out of the rubber, then pulled the silicone cap off.
In the hunt for a 12v LED, i remembered I had a spare Disco 1 switch with an orange bulb and carrier.

Took that bulb out of the carrier, replaced the orange silicone cap with the blue one, reinstalled into rubber holder and put back together. and it works!!

Relatively pointless but dopamine inducing fixes. 😁

View attachment 318769View attachment 318770View attachment 318773View attachment 318772View attachment 318771View attachment 318774
Click to expand...
A nice satisfying little win there.
 
Did the obligatory service - oil, oil , air, turbo breather, and that other one at the back near the air filter( technical term) with the two seals that some delete. Cleaned the EGR. Went the boot cubby to get the new sump bolt and washer and oh NO! A Fishtank!!!
So that takes the ‘to do’ list to:
Fishtank
Headliner
Back box - outer skin hanging off
Fuel cradle.
Together with MG TF list:
Service
New hood.
🤦🏻‍♂️
 
MaxTheDog1 said:
Did the obligatory service - oil, oil , air, turbo breather, and that other one at the back near the air filter( technical term) with the two seals that some delete. Cleaned the EGR. Went the boot cubby to get the new sump bolt and washer and oh NO! A Fishtank!!!
So that takes the ‘to do’ list to:
Fishtank
Headliner
Back box - outer skin hanging off
Fuel cradle.
Together with MG TF list:
Service
New hood.
🤦🏻‍♂️
Click to expand...

Blank the egr.
Your engine will thank you, and you won’t keep having to clean that soot out.
 
Have a search on the forums - plenty of useful info on here.
The below video, posted elsewhere by a member, gives a bit of info for you…


 
Thanks. But doesn’t it come under the same category as deleting the cat. Ok until MOT time when it fails on emissions as my 03 MG TF just has. Although that was the U/S cat not that I’d removed it.
 
Added a little union flag under the air intakes.

IMG_20240524_132449.jpg
 
MaxTheDog1 said:
Thanks. But doesn’t it come under the same category as deleting the cat. Ok until MOT time when it fails on emissions as my 03 MG TF just has. Although that was the U/S cat not that I’d removed it.
Click to expand...
It can be a mot failure, for playing with the emissions system. You won’t fail ON emissions (at the tail pipe) because of it.
Search around and you might be able to pick up an egr valve that has been sealed shut inside, so it looks absolutely fine at inspection. Switch it over, Bobs your mum’s brother. ;)

While you do it, clean out the manifold - it’ll be full of cr@p, just like your egr valve. Your engine will be able to breath again.
 
As promised last weekend, set about the rear of Freddie with new brake drums, shoes, springs and wheel cylinders.

Of course, someone had been here before, and nicely rounded off the m6 bolts that hold the wheel cylinders to the backing plates for me. And they were well and truly seized. So, much time spent trying all sorts to remove them - btw, an E12 drive works well on an 8mm head that is rounding. A dremmel cutting disc and hammer/screwdriver works well on an 8mm head that won’t budge in a tight space! B&Q work well as ‘motor factors’ at 3pm on a Saturday, when you find no replacement m6 bolts in the new kit.

So, just need to flush new fluid through the whole system today and re-adjust the handbrake.

And only one sticky plaster deployed - so a safe day ‘spannering’! :cool:
 
Thanks Dar ran,
Might just do it and see how it goes for the September MOT.
Just been prepping the rear end for underseal/paint.
Note my MK2 fuel cradle support bar with the ventilation intake.
Also note the back box air dam innovation.

IMG_3376.jpeg
IMG_3377.jpeg
IMG_3380.jpeg
IMG_3379.jpeg
IMG_3378.jpeg
IMG_3381.jpeg
IMG_3382.jpeg
IMG_3383.jpeg
 
Grrr…
Just finished the brakes - handbrake adjusted, all tickity-boo.
Torqued the road nuts up and noticed a bloody great cut in the sidewall of one of my tyres. One of my set of 5 Geolanders. No chance of a repair. Luckily they have not got too much wear on, so just replacing the one and working it in the rotation pattern should be ok for even wear still. (They’ve only done 3k, or so).

I blame my wife - been going off-piste with it parking at work. At the local hospital. :cool: I’m sure.
…Well it can’t have been me.
 
Sorry Andy, didn’t mean anything untoward. The some remnant of my home ahem ’gym’ days when I did do that kind of thing. Now used as a weight to stop the ramps moving. The other ramp has a 120A 12V battery as a weight.
👍🏻
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
537
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
173
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
628
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
566
Hippo
Hippo