Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Was that the one on Ebay for about £3k?Bought another one!!
Td4 Auto. 2000 my.
29,500 miles from New.
Couldn't resist it as the number plate is NOJ!!!!
Was that the one on Ebay for about £3k?Bought another one!!
Td4 Auto. 2000 my.
29,500 miles from New.
Couldn't resist it as the number plate is NOJ!!!!
Good lad. Pics?Bought another one!!
Td4 Auto. 2000 my.
29,500 miles from New.
Couldn't resist it as the number plate is NOJ!!!!
Looks new!View attachment 258351
This will have to do for now!!
That's like new.
My parts car had a Brucie Bonus of the cup holder.Found a cup holder! for the equivallant of £12.5 Was difficult to find but eventually got one. Also not exactly done today but since we bought it 3 months ago: Fitted black air vents, roof bars, new turbo core, new clutch, new top gasket, 2 new tyres, new cambelt/tensioner, facelift centre console + 6 disc cd player, fan speed resistor, new leather gear gaitor, replaced aftermarket lift pump with new primer bulb, new oil in gearbox and IRD, air filter. Been busy!!
Not so hands free...I find the flat surface far too useful to have cups!
I have a soft rubber phone holder in all mine for sat nav etc..
Not that you are allowed to touch it in any way whilst driving!!
Interesting that the shocks being out could be detected on the steering wheel.Today I changed the RH side shock, and put the boot side panels back on.
It took half the time to do the second shock, mostly because I knew what to undo, and what can be left in place.
I also recorded video of what I did today, which I'll put on the tube, when I've edited it.
It was definitely worth doing the shock, not only because the leaking one would fail next week's MOT, but also the ride is much better, and the vibration at 60 has gone, which I'm putting down to the failed mass damper on the RH side. Interestingly the mass damper on the left has been chemical metal bonded together, so I'll be ordering another for that side too, unless I can fix the one off the RH side.
The steering wheel was very slightly off to the right when going straight, not by much, maybe 10mm or so, but doing the shocks has now put the steering straight, which I'm pleased about.
In all a worthwhile job to do, and hopefully it'll be one less thing the MOT tester will worry about.
I suspect that I have this problem with the fronts on my FL1. I have tyre wear and it feels like the tracking is out, but the only components in the system that have not been replaced are the shocks and the nearside top mount. It's been back time and time again for tracking adjustments. I'm budgeting for new shocks this year.Interesting that the shocks being out could be detected on the steering wheel.
Looking forward to the video Nodge.Today I changed the RH side shock, and put the boot side panels back on.
It took half the time to do the second shock, mostly because I knew what to undo, and what can be left in place.
I also recorded video of what I did today, which I'll put on the tube, when I've edited it.
It was definitely worth doing the shock, not only because the leaking one would fail next week's MOT, but also the ride is much better, and the vibration at 60 has gone, which I'm putting down to the failed mass damper on the RH side. Interestingly the mass damper on the left has been chemical metal bonded together, so I'll be ordering another for that side too, unless I can fix the one off the RH side.
The steering wheel was very slightly off to the right when going straight, not by much, maybe 10mm or so, but doing the shocks has now put the steering straight, which I'm pleased about.
In all a worthwhile job to do, and hopefully it'll be one less thing the MOT tester will worry about.