Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Today I replaced the aftermarket fuel filter I fitted last year, with an OE filter, as apparently the cheap aftermarket filters can cause hot running REDUCED POWER issues on the dash, and sometimes allow air to enter the fuel feed to the fuel pumps.
I didn't notice any power issues when hot, but I definitely was getting air into the fuel line, which I believe is giving the random throttle induced misfire, especially when cold.
So I figured I'd eliminate the filter first, by fitting a filter with "Purflux" on the top, as this is definitely an OE part.
It's a fiddly and messy job, which inevitably results in fuel spillage over the old and new filter.
Annoyingly replacing the filter didn't solve the air in the fuel line either, so I started looking at other potential routes for air to enter the system.
The only place where air can enter (the fuel pipe is under vacuum), is at the joint where the filter is connected to the fuel outlet to the pumps. So I decided I'd change the O rings in the QR fitting.
I carefully removed the O rings from the intake side of the filter I'd just removed, and also carefully pulled the engine side
fuel feed fitting apart (it's also the fuel temperature sensor too), and swapped the O rings over, going on the theory the O rings from the old filter are 12 years younger than the O rings in the fuel line.
Here's the old O rings, the new ones are fitted in the connector/temp sensor (marked with a red line.
The good news is there seems to be less air in the system, after a quick rev I couldn't see any more large bubbles, just tiny bubbles, which I'm guessing will clear as the fuel is drawn though.
I'll give it a good run tomorrow, and I also want to put SDD on it, to reset the adaptations, and also do a complete air path calibration, which hasn't been done with the new head fitted.
I'm hoping that once done, it'll run even better, at which point I can move on to the Haldex grabbing issue. You gotta love these more complex Freelanders, but I do wonder if they're just a bit too complex for their own good.
I didn't notice any power issues when hot, but I definitely was getting air into the fuel line, which I believe is giving the random throttle induced misfire, especially when cold.
So I figured I'd eliminate the filter first, by fitting a filter with "Purflux" on the top, as this is definitely an OE part.
It's a fiddly and messy job, which inevitably results in fuel spillage over the old and new filter.
Annoyingly replacing the filter didn't solve the air in the fuel line either, so I started looking at other potential routes for air to enter the system.
The only place where air can enter (the fuel pipe is under vacuum), is at the joint where the filter is connected to the fuel outlet to the pumps. So I decided I'd change the O rings in the QR fitting.
I carefully removed the O rings from the intake side of the filter I'd just removed, and also carefully pulled the engine side
fuel feed fitting apart (it's also the fuel temperature sensor too), and swapped the O rings over, going on the theory the O rings from the old filter are 12 years younger than the O rings in the fuel line.
Here's the old O rings, the new ones are fitted in the connector/temp sensor (marked with a red line.
The good news is there seems to be less air in the system, after a quick rev I couldn't see any more large bubbles, just tiny bubbles, which I'm guessing will clear as the fuel is drawn though.
I'll give it a good run tomorrow, and I also want to put SDD on it, to reset the adaptations, and also do a complete air path calibration, which hasn't been done with the new head fitted.
I'm hoping that once done, it'll run even better, at which point I can move on to the Haldex grabbing issue. You gotta love these more complex Freelanders, but I do wonder if they're just a bit too complex for their own good.
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Well today I had an SDD session, and it's like a different vehicle.
I cleared the fueling adaptations.
I calibrated the throttle body.
I carried out an air path calibration.
Before the calibrations, I was still getting an occasional misfire, although this was much better after the fuel filter replacement yesterday.
The engine was also loosing boost on changing gear, like the turbo was stalling, and took a second or two to come back on boost. This created a very uncomfortable lurching sensation as the clutch was bought back up, as the engine didn't want to pick up very fast.
After the calibrations today, the misfire has almost gone, with just the occasional flutter at around 2000 RPM, which apparently some FL2's seemed to suffer, not even LR could solve the issue.
The engine is much more responsive, and feeling more powerful, and the compressor stall feeling has gone, being replaced with a much more normal, turbo boost drop off when the throttle is released, not dissimilar to the wife's diesel VW Eos.
The engine is also much more powerful, so powerful that it's now showing up a weakness in the clutch, which feels like it's only got a few k miles life, so I guess that's my summer job on it.
I've also tried to work out what the issue is with the PDC, but as SDD can't communicate with the module, so looks like I've got to change that.
I've got another, and don't mind pulling the boot side panel off to swap it, as I've got to fit the tow bar harness and towing module anyway, which helpfully is fitted next to the PDC module, but that's a job for another day.
For now, I'm happy the FL2 is finally driving properly, or at least as properly as they seem to do.
I cleared the fueling adaptations.
I calibrated the throttle body.
I carried out an air path calibration.
Before the calibrations, I was still getting an occasional misfire, although this was much better after the fuel filter replacement yesterday.
The engine was also loosing boost on changing gear, like the turbo was stalling, and took a second or two to come back on boost. This created a very uncomfortable lurching sensation as the clutch was bought back up, as the engine didn't want to pick up very fast.
After the calibrations today, the misfire has almost gone, with just the occasional flutter at around 2000 RPM, which apparently some FL2's seemed to suffer, not even LR could solve the issue.
The engine is much more responsive, and feeling more powerful, and the compressor stall feeling has gone, being replaced with a much more normal, turbo boost drop off when the throttle is released, not dissimilar to the wife's diesel VW Eos.
The engine is also much more powerful, so powerful that it's now showing up a weakness in the clutch, which feels like it's only got a few k miles life, so I guess that's my summer job on it.
I've also tried to work out what the issue is with the PDC, but as SDD can't communicate with the module, so looks like I've got to change that.
I've got another, and don't mind pulling the boot side panel off to swap it, as I've got to fit the tow bar harness and towing module anyway, which helpfully is fitted next to the PDC module, but that's a job for another day.
For now, I'm happy the FL2 is finally driving properly, or at least as properly as they seem to do.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Today I started work on investigating the puff of grey smoke and lumpy running on startup, and a frequent uneven idle. I'm suspecting one or more leaking injectors so step 1 is the leak off test. To me it looks pretty inconclusive. There was no fuel coming though with just the LP pump running so I ran the engine for two mins. Below is the result.
I'm now wondering the next course of action. Probably a live data read? but what I did notice is a bit of oil sitting in the injector well of no1 (although I suspect this has come from slightly wayward pouring last time I did a change).
I'm now wondering the next course of action. Probably a live data read? but what I did notice is a bit of oil sitting in the injector well of no1 (although I suspect this has come from slightly wayward pouring last time I did a change).
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The leak back looks acceptable, although not the finite test for common rail injectors.
Have you checked the glow plugs?
They operate to some extent on starting and initial running, even if the glow light doesn't illuminate.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Might be the light on the photo but is the brake fluid level OK??
Do an ohms test on the glows, also try it with MAF disconnected to see if it improves.
Icarsoft could read the injector balance too. Does on some cars, not on others. Only works at idle but as that is where your problem is!! Worth a go.
HNY!
Do an ohms test on the glows, also try it with MAF disconnected to see if it improves.
Icarsoft could read the injector balance too. Does on some cars, not on others. Only works at idle but as that is where your problem is!! Worth a go.
HNY!
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
I'll check the glow plugs as I know they are a minimum of 8 years old, but I haven't really suspected them as the rough idle will occur when hot too. They might account for the smoke though as that is only on a cold start.
I'll get the icarsoft out next though and have a play.
P. S, the brake fluid is okay Andy, mid way between Min and max. Cheers though
I'll get the icarsoft out next though and have a play.
P. S, the brake fluid is okay Andy, mid way between Min and max. Cheers though
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Oh, and also removed my Synergy box.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It didn't on my 05 SE, it just displayed 0.00 in all injector fields.
Glow plugs will likely be responsible for poor cold running.
Idle instability when hot is most likely due to injector issues.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
It didn't on my 05 SE, it just displayed 0.00 in all injector fields.
Yeah, just tried it and got the same as you.
It's possible I have both issues then I suspect. I will get some new glow plugs anyway, given the relatively modest cost. As for the injectors, I was hoping to be lucky and identify one that might be duff, but sadly it may just be that all four are worn.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Be careful when removing the old ones, as they have a habit of breaking off in the head.
I'd be tempted to buy 1 new injector, and substitute them 1 by 1 until you find the problem one.
I was planning on doing that same thing with my FL2, if I couldn't get it sorted.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Be careful when removing the old ones, as they have a habit of breaking off in the head.
That's what I'm concerned about. I'll be using my small torque wrench I think! Is it best to have the engine hot?
Good idea. I might well give that a go. I might call on some assistance on the first one, but would probably be okay after that
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
They do break easily, so gently does it.
Lots if penetrant before you start, and have the engine as hot as possible.
I had one on mine that I couldn't get out without the risk of it breaking, so left it in place. Mine spluttered for a few minutes after a cold start, which was likely the dead plug I just couldn't get out.
Not a problem.
Just let me know when you're ready.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
I did a glow plug destruct test. They snap at 30 lb ft if I recall!!
Set wrench at 20 perhaps.
No liability can be accepted for any damage, broken knuckles, stripped threads.... Howsoever caused!!!
Set wrench at 20 perhaps.
No liability can be accepted for any damage, broken knuckles, stripped threads.... Howsoever caused!!!
NeilTD4
Active Member
Added the often discussed extra earth to my 11 plate FL2.
I bought a 36 inch 170 amp cable with a 6mm eye one end and an 8mm at the other from ebay seller 'willinton'
I replaced one of the starter bolts with p/n LR012452. It has an M8 stud sticking out of the head. There is also p/n LR001360 which has an M6 stud.
I ran the cable back towards the bulkhead and zip tied it to the large cable that's clipped to the 'stat housing, then along it a little further and the branched off towards the front, where I ran it into the battery box.
I unclipped the front part of the battery box and extended the grommet slot down enough so it's a tight fit on the flexible trunking and held in place by the shaped grommet above.
A lot of words, but I didn't take any pictures as I wanted to just crack on before it got dark and or rained...!
Anyway, it started a bit quicker and I'm hoping it helps because the starter solenoid has stuck a couple of times and I've had to give the starter a little tap...
I bought a 36 inch 170 amp cable with a 6mm eye one end and an 8mm at the other from ebay seller 'willinton'
I replaced one of the starter bolts with p/n LR012452. It has an M8 stud sticking out of the head. There is also p/n LR001360 which has an M6 stud.
I ran the cable back towards the bulkhead and zip tied it to the large cable that's clipped to the 'stat housing, then along it a little further and the branched off towards the front, where I ran it into the battery box.
I unclipped the front part of the battery box and extended the grommet slot down enough so it's a tight fit on the flexible trunking and held in place by the shaped grommet above.
A lot of words, but I didn't take any pictures as I wanted to just crack on before it got dark and or rained...!
Anyway, it started a bit quicker and I'm hoping it helps because the starter solenoid has stuck a couple of times and I've had to give the starter a little tap...
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/glow-plug-fracture-torque.374749/
And - looks like you read it !!
Good luck. An ohms test before you remove is worthwhile - get the open circuit ones out first.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
I was watching a Harry's Garage video early this year and the mechanic working on one of his vintage motors made the suggestion of putting a small amount of copper grease on injector threads to reduce the chance of them getting stuck in future. Has anyone ever done this or similar to injectors?
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
My experience is that diesel glow plugs and injectors get held by sooty coke deposits. Coppers lip is good on joints with dissimilar metals, alloys on hubs etc.
Don't think it would harm as long as it doesn't affect the sealing rings. Obviously any torque settings would need to be considered for tightening.
