Popped out today to wash the car and then head out for lunch. Strangely, the irregular idle I've been suffering for a while seems to have cleared up. I believe I've found the culprit too! I've been convinced that I've got one or more injectors playing up but it would seem it was possibly my Synergy box. A while ago it was causing running issues as there was a loose connection in the plug that goes to the fuel rail sensor. I sorted that and the car ran fine, but after time i found the engine getting particularly noisy. Various periods of running with the box switched off seemed to quieten the engine. As a result I've been thinking about removing it for some time.

Anyway, since I was faffing around with engine stuff yesterday I removed the box but it was not until today that I drove the car. It was much improved, quieter, smoother, and even gear changes were smoother. The only downside is the reduced power. On inspecting the Synergy I discovered corrosion on one of the MAF terminals (see the green/blue deposit below).
20220101_170402 (2).jpg


Knowing how sensitive engine management systems are to conductivity/continuity within certain parts of the circuits (the fuel pressure sensor harness being a common example on our TD4s) it is possible that this corrosion could be causing issues. No doubt time will tell, but I shall be very happy if the rough idle is cured. @Nodge68 you may be able to stand down (hopefully).

*edit* A point to note is that the Synergy I have was 2nd hand when I bought it seven or eight years ago so it's done well I guess.
 
V6 model year 2000 just passed MOT with no advisories. Mostly original, how can 22 year old rubber boots and bushes, vcu bearing mounts and all be fine and new ones last months??
Got to do belts now!!!
 
Today my Freelander was treated to a new exhaust system, from downpipe to back box. Had the system for a few weeks and was hoping to fit it myself but bad weather and things meant I had to send it to a garage. Had the belts done in November too so its had all its budget spent already. Lol.
 
Hi all just had thought have seen a video were the tailgate on the freelander2 is powered anyone done it or have a idea where I can source such a kit
Thanks stay safe
 
Denboy said:
Hi all just had thought have seen a video were the tailgate on the freelander2 is powered anyone done it or have a idea where I can source such a kit
Thanks stay safe
Click to expand...
I've looked into this
I found a kit available from Alibaba or one of the other Chinese sites, I forget which now.

It's not straightforward, and will require lots of cutting, mechanical engineering, and extensive electronic work.

I decided against it, especially as I find the power tailgate on our Mazda CX5 quite infuriating at times.
 
Nodge68 said:
Better than the Synergy?
Click to expand...
be a " YES " to that :)

am typing up a report now .. ( .. l.z. link .. )

in short .. bags of torque .. more civilized in terms of general noise ..
exhaust note a tad different .. deeper .. smoother combustion ..
no exhaust raspiness sound with heavy-foot @ 3000rpm :)
~~~~~~~~~
( Edit ..correction to prev. text .. )
the idle rpm Do rise slightly with the ptc heater or ac. turned "on"
~~~~~~~~~~~~
power wise i'd estimate it to be like a "Hi / Med.+" . on the ron-box
[ thats a 'plus' next to 'med' ;-]

was very pleasing to drive :cool: .. all in all ..

````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
 
Last edited:
Drilled out bolt from front of under shield that had snapped off.....facelift model....so obviously one of the ones hidden behind the bumper...:mad:

At least now I know how the bumper comes off....
Yes...had to dremel slots in the wheel arch lining screws as all seized and rusted.
Yes...undid wrong bolts on each side under wheel arch lining....even after reading post from someone saying its the upper ones...:(
 
Kevm said:
Drilled out bolt from front of under shield that had snapped off.....facelift model....so obviously one of the ones hidden behind the bumper...:mad:

At least now I know how the bumper comes off....
Yes...had to dremel slots in the wheel arch lining screws as all seized and rusted.
Yes...undid wrong bolts on each side under wheel arch lining....even after reading post from someone saying its the upper ones...:(
Click to expand...
I found it easier using a colbolt drill bit to drill the heads off them but make sure to drill them in stages (a bit on each head then move to next one) otherwise the heat build up melts the liner ;). Make sure you use rustless (stainless) steel screws & new 'u' nuts.
 
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