NeilTD4 said:
The guy at the LR place said the PTU's they have changed are mostly on 2011/2012 models...
Click to expand...

My 2009MY had a replacement PTU before I bought it, and a replacement diff too, although whoever fitted the rear diff didn't put any oil it it, so it seized solid while I was driving.:eek:

I can feel the Haldex engage whenever I turn a tight corner when accelerating, so it's no wonder the PTU or diffs fail on the FL2, as it must put enormous strain on a AWD system, with it engaging when not needed.:eek:
 
Today I finished a new head unit install. My first decision was to bypass steps 1-10 by not taking out the whole console. I cut to the chase and removed only that part that surrounds the player with making just 2 deft incisions. If I need to remove the new unit for any reason in the future, then it’s a straightforward task.

IMG_20211129_210959.jpeg


I plunged for a Pioneer A340 from an established ebay car audio store, £187 plus £19 for the Freelander conversion kit.

The sturdy stock heavy duty unit weighs in at 3kg and probably would survive a car crusher. The Pioneer is a lightweight at 1Kg.
It looked problematic to securely fit the new metal cage and the head unit into that huge space. I decided to glue the fascia part of the kit in place on the metal cage and that worked a treat.
IMG_20211202_121754.jpeg


I was taken aback with the clear improvement in the sound quality, even with the limited stock speakers still in place.
IMG_20211207_151813.jpeg
 
The two cuts I made are not visible unless you crane your neck and use a torch light, not too shabby for a 15 year old vehicle :) In any case should there be a slip of a blade, a brief touch up would cover it up. The design of this console is impractical.
 
I was scanning Ebay for some goodies for my FL2, when I came across this listing for an LED light bar.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20Inch-3...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
What drew my attention was the first image in the listing, was of my old SE, parked at the back of my house for a photo shoot.
This image has been taken from this very section of the forum, which basically means some of these sellers are "borrowing" pictures from the Internet. :eek:
 
Nodge68 said:
I was scanning Ebay for some goodies for my FL2, when I came across this listing for an LED light bar.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20Inch-3...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
What drew my attention was the first image in the listing, was of my old SE, parked at the back of my house for a photo shoot.
This image has been taken from this very section of the forum, which basically means some of these sellers are "borrowing" pictures from the Internet. :eek:
Click to expand...
lol

So they have a 20" light bar to sell to Freelander owners and need pics. Google is their answer...

LightBarSearch.jpg


Even if they don't know the difference between an F1 and an F2 :D
 
Nodge68 said:
I was scanning Ebay for some goodies for my FL2, when I came across this listing for an LED light bar.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20Inch-3...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
What drew my attention was the first image in the listing, was of my old SE, parked at the back of my house for a photo shoot.
This image has been taken from this very section of the forum, which basically means some of these sellers are "borrowing" pictures from the Internet. :eek:
Click to expand...
Crikey. I'd better stop posting pics with my reg plate in I think.
 
kernowsvenski said:
Crikey. I'd better stop posting pics with my reg plate in I think.
Click to expand...

I don't think it makes much difference really.
I used to edit the plate, but I don't bother these days.

The FL2 is going much better now, although there's still a couple of things to solve.
The random misfire seems to be getting better, and is now most evident when the engine is cold. I'm thinking the stream of bubbles (visible in the video) in the fuel line might be something to do with that, so I've ordered a genuine fuel filter, as I think the aftermarket one I fitted last year is causing an air leak on the suction side.

There's also a short but massive drop in power after a gear change, almost like turbo compressor stall, which takes a second or to two to clear, before the boost comes in again. I'm sure I've read about this issue before, but can't find reference to it now.

The last thing I don't like is the Haldex engagement when there's no need. I find it coming in when pulling away at junctions, or even maneuvering in car parks. This must put enormous strain on the entire drive train, so it's no wonder that the rear diff and PTU have such short lives. :(
 
Drove the Tangiers one to get booster jab!
Preparing for V6 belt change then I shall use that while the TD4 has a new torque converter installed. That will be two separate threads I think!

Can I use an impact gun on the V6 crank pulley without risk?
Bit careful with crankshafts since the TD4 broke its shaft.
I think the shaft is steel on a V6??
There is a hex in the pulley, could use a large box spanner to hold it with a bar welded on???
 
As an aside, a mate at a local garage has given me a F1 rear strut to dismantle and investigate the failure of.
It appears to have locked solid and punched the metalwork top mount through the car damaging wiring and the rear side panel relays!!!
 
andyfreelandy said:
As an aside, a mate at a local garage has given me a F1 rear strut to dismantle and investigate the failure of.
It appears to have locked solid and punched the metalwork top mount through the car damaging wiring and the rear side panel relays!!!
Click to expand...
Ouch, that's unfortunate!
 
andyfreelandy said:
Preparing for V6 belt change
Click to expand...
That's a fun job. It's much easier if the engine is on a stand, but removing the engine isn't much fun either. :(
andyfreelandy said:
Can I use an impact gun on the V6 crank pulley without risk?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's absolutely fine. The KV6 does use a steel crank, which is much stronger than the cast iron crank of the TD4. ;)
andyfreelandy said:
There is a hex in the pulley, could use a large box spanner to hold it with a bar welded on???
Click to expand...

Remove the starter and lock the ring gear with something, then just undo the crank pulley.
 
andyfreelandy said:
As an aside, a mate at a local garage has given me a F1 rear strut to dismantle and investigate the failure of.
It appears to have locked solid and punched the metalwork top mount through the car
Click to expand...

I've seen this on a MK3 Escort. It locked up, causing the top mount to fail, punching the underside of the bonnet, making a larger lump from the underside.

It'll be interesting to see what has failed with the Freelander shock, as they're made by Delphi, which is a different manufacturer than the Sachs shocks Ford used.
 
Nodge68 said:
The last thing I don't like is the Haldex engagement when there's no need. I find it coming in when pulling away at junctions, or even maneuvering in car parks. This must put enormous strain on the entire drive train, so it's no wonder that the rear diff and PTU have such short lives. :(
Click to expand...
Having felt that when we went for a spin I was thinking about it after. Is it a common trait? I can't help thinking that it's not supposed to do that.
 
kernowsvenski said:
Having felt that when we went for a spin I was thinking about it after. Is it a common trait? I can't help thinking that it's not supposed to do that.
Click to expand...
It seems to be by design, which to me seems silly. It's likely the reason the rear diff and PTU fail early on them.
The VCU seems a much lower tech, but also kinder form of on demand AWD to me.
 
Only thing I’ve done for my freelander today is take it for the MOT, sadly failed. So know I have plenty to keep me busy over the holidays lol.

can someone please tell me what the front and rear central prop shaft couplings look like, cos they have deteriorated.

Any help is gratefully accepted, thanks folks!
 
4 1/2 years ago I broke off the trailer wiring plug on a rock up a river bed, leaving it dangling on the wire.

Since then I've been tucking it up between the bumper and tow bar bracket when not in use and pulling it down when I use a trailer - but its a pants solution cos it just hangs down and I have to be careful how I connect the trailer wiring up so that it doesn't drag along the floor or be to tight. Still, it was only like that for 4 1/2 years :oops:

Anyway, today I scored myself a trailer at a good price and perfect for my needs - a 'standard' 6x4 trailer with a fully enclosed removable stock crate on top - so no need for tarps or tie downs. Thought it time to sort the electrics.

So brought the Freelander into the yard at work and the govnor welded it back on for me. Amazingly, given the abuse its had, all the electrics work perfectly.

TrailerWiring.jpg


Must do something about the spare wheel cover. That all started when a parrot decided it was going to tear it apart, but the sun has finished the job.
 
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