Guys are there two auxiliary belts on td4s? Serpentine belts etc.
I cannot fit the new one at all (I have dayco and bearmach) and old ones goes silky smooth. They appear to be shorter by a cm or something, rendering this impossible as the job is already very difficult.
The ac one won't match either.
Microcat only shows PQS000180 as pn.

This is what I attempted to do on my freelander, today.

LE: Indeed there is a 872 mm version as well. Should be 884, just me being lazy to open microcat before ordering.
But this is for the ac one so far.
 
Last edited:
websun said:
Guys are there two auxiliary belts on td4s? Serpentine belts etc.
I cannot fit the new one at all (I have dayco and bearmach) and old ones goes silky smooth. They appear to be shorter by a cm or something, rendering this impossible as the job is already very difficult.
The ac one won't match either.

This is what I attempted to do on my freelander, today.
Click to expand...

Can you see any numbers on the old belt?

Maybe you not got the right angle to pull tensioner back far enough?

J
 
Nothing visible is old and cheap, figured it out. I found that is a very difficult job as one person without an extension! Very.
Lesson they changed the damn belt after 2002.
Also I did state that fitting the old one went well so tensioner is fine.
 
1.7m height barrier at our local tip too. Our Hippo just limbers under it (standard size tyres and ride height), but it would interfere with the aerial if it weren't busted off!!!
 
rob_bell said:
1.7m height barrier at our local tip too. Our Hippo just limbers under it (standard size tyres and ride height), but it would interfere with the aerial if it weren't busted off!!!
Click to expand...
I don't think mine would go under a 1.7M barrier. Mine has larger wheels, which does raise the hight my a small amount
 
Pop question if the rear passenger window just drops down is that the regulator or do I need the motor as well? I can hear it doing something...
 
websun said:
Pop question if the rear passenger window just drops down is that the regulator or do I need the motor as well? I can hear it doing something...
Click to expand...

Normally it's just the cable that has rusted though and failed.
Budget £10 for just the cable, or about £30 for the regulator assembly without a motor. The motor seldom gives trouble, unless the cable jammed it and the switch was held on which trying to move it.
 
Investigated a new issue today. Slightly uneven idling, particularly when cold. Checked and cleaned the ron box connectors, particularly to the rail pressure sensor. Not much joy though so I'm hoping a tank of decent fuel and some injector cleaner helps.

If that doesn't, what's my checklist? fuel filter, injectors, fault code check, MAF and MAP, LP fuel pump?

I had new injectors a few years ago and an HP pump a few months ago so I'm hoping it's not those!
 
New or refurbished? I completely lost confidence in refurbished injectors, unless it's the remanufactured by bosch ones.
 
kernowsvenski said:
Investigated a new issue today. Slightly uneven idling, particularly when cold. Checked and cleaned the ron box connectors, particularly to the rail pressure sensor.
Click to expand...
I noticed it was a little uneven at idle after we did the stat housing leak (I'm assuming all is well with that now?). I put uneven ness at idle down to slight differences between injectors. As long as it's actually still running on all 4 cylinders and the engine smooths out above idle, then I'd not worry unduly TBH. You could put a dose of Comma Diesel Magic in the tank, maybe at the same time as filling with tank with some premium diesel. That's what I do when mine feels like it's running below par.;)
 
websun said:
New or refurbished? I completely lost confidence in refurbished injectors, unless it's the remanufactured by bosch ones.
Click to expand...

It was done at a local Bosch service centre so hopefully they're okay, although my current ones have just about reached the mileage that the orginals did...:eek:

Nodge68 said:
I noticed it was a little uneven at idle after we did the stat housing leak (I'm assuming all is well with that now?).
Click to expand...

Yeah, all good on the coolant front. Purfic :)

Nodge68 said:
I put uneven ness at idle down to slight differences between injectors. As long as it's actually still running on all 4 cylinders and the engine smooths out above idle, then I'd not worry unduly TBH.
Click to expand...

Runs like a dream tbh. As long as it lasts my upcoming J.O.G trip I can sort it properly when I get back. Just don't want to be let down half way through the trip as the cyclists have been planning it for months.:confused:

Nodge68 said:
You could put a dose of Comma Diesel Magic in the tank, maybe at the same time as filling with tank with some premium diesel. That's what I do when mine feels like it's running below par.;)
Click to expand...

I do use Comma Diesel Magic from time to time and have a bottle ready in the boot. I've opted for STP injector cleaner on a 3/4 tank this week though to see what happens. Was wondering about a new fuel filter before the trip anyway as it's about due.
 
kernowsvenski said:
It was done at a local Bosch service centre so hopefully they're okay, although my current ones have just about reached the mileage that the orginals did...:eek:



Yeah, all good on the coolant front. Purfic :)



Runs like a dream tbh. As long as it lasts my upcoming J.O.G trip I can sort it properly when I get back. Just don't want to be let down half way through the trip as the cyclists have been planning it for months.:confused:



I do use Comma Diesel Magic from time to time and have a bottle ready in the boot. I've opted for STP injector cleaner on a 3/4 tank this week though to see what happens. Was wondering about a new fuel filter before the trip anyway as it's about due.
Click to expand...
Yer need to make sure its fit to do 2000 miles without the need to have items like brake pads changed half way.
 
Hippo said:
Yer need to make sure its fit to do 2000 miles without the need to have items like brake pads changed half way.
Click to expand...
I've done loads in the last three or four months, including pads and disks .I've sorted a few long standing problems too (with the help of others), and am planning an oil change and a fuel filter before I go. I'm reasonably confident it'll be okay, apart from the slight concern about the uneven idling now.
 
kernowsvenski said:
I've done loads in the last three or four months, including pads and disks .I've sorted a few long standing problems too (with the help of others), and am planning an oil change and a fuel filter before I go. I'm reasonably confident it'll be okay, apart from the slight concern about the uneven idling now.
Click to expand...
Try not to leave jobs to the last minute anorl just in case yer find yer need to have another go at it. Like an early fail part or oil leak because the filters deformed.
 
Hippo said:
Try not to leave jobs to the last minute anorl just in case yer find yer need to have another go at it. Like an early fail part or oil leak because the filters deformed.
Click to expand...
Fair point. I think I'm just about sorted though, apart from getting the right fuel filter...
 
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