GrumpyGel · May 16, 2018

Skinny Mike said:
Nope, different calipers. One for vented, one for solid discs. Therefore different carrier's.
So the question is, can the whole lot be swapped between pre and post 2000MY cars. Discs, carrier's, calipers shoes. And I believe the answer to that is yes.
But don't quote me on that as I've never worked on an L series, oh the shame
Mike

lol. I have the parts car, I could take everything over but I don't want to go to the trouble of swapping hubs and my discs are nice and new(ish). I thought Nodge said that the mounts for the calipers are the same - maybe its the carrier that's different and I could take them over from the parts car and fix them to my hubs. At those prices it would seem sensible to not use old calipers but to use new ones.

htr · May 17, 2018

GrumpyGel said:
lol. I have the parts car, I could take everything over but I don't want to go to the trouble of swapping hubs and my discs are nice and new(ish). I thought Nodge said that the mounts for the calipers are the same - maybe its the carrier that's different and I could take them over from the parts car and fix them to my hubs. At those prices it would seem sensible to not use old calipers but to use new ones.

Ha - they won't be that price here! I had kits put in mine last April and they weren't expensive even with freight and labour.

GrumpyGel · May 17, 2018

htr said:
Ha - they won't be that price here! I had kits put in mine last April and they weren't expensive even with freight and labour.

Are you happier with your brakes these days?

Nodge68 · May 17, 2018

GrumpyGel said:
it may be worth putting new tyres on the 6 spoke 15" wheels off my 01 parts car

Put the new tyres on the later rims.

GrumpyGel said:
Does anyone know if 1A calipers can be used on the early master and solid discs? I replaced the disks quite recently.

Do a brake upgrade once the discs have had some more wear. This would be easy because you've got the later rims fitted with new tyres.

You need the caliper and carriers, pads and vented discs. The master cylinder will be fine as the pistons on the later caliper are the same as the early caliper.

Nodge68 · May 17, 2018

Skinny Mike said:
So the question is, can the whole lot be swapped between pre and post 2000MY cars. Discs, carrier's, calipers shoes. And I believe the answer to that is yes.

Yes. It's a straight swap from early solid discs to later vented discs. And yes it's worth doing as the vented discs are larger in diameter which makes the brakes more efficient.

baptista · May 17, 2018

rob_bell said:
I really like this - do you have your own printer, or did you get this outsourced?

my brother has a 3D printer, he created the file and printed it

htr · May 17, 2018

GrumpyGel said:
Are you happier with your brakes these days?

TBO the brakes are sufficient but couldn't be described as great. I fitted some drilled & grooved discs and initially the 'green stuff' pads. One piston stuck due to a wee bit of corrosion and the pads on that side wore out in short order! Think I replaced them with stock pads.

Nodge68 · May 17, 2018

htr said:
TBO the brakes are sufficient but couldn't be described as great. I fitted some drilled & grooved discs and initially the 'green stuff' pads. One piston stuck due to a wee bit of corrosion and the pads on that side wore out in short order! Think I replaced them with stock pads.

The fastest upgrade is to fit the larger discs and calipers from the 2000 onwards FL1. This gives you a larger disc diameter and vents to cool them too. They are a worthwhile upgrade to do, even if you need to factor in your inflated shipping costs.

Alibro · May 17, 2018

baptista said:
my brother has a 3D printer, he created the file and printed it

I've been thinking of getting one myself as they are dirt cheap now starting at around £100 delivered.
Having said that if you want a half decent one then probably double that.

Nodge68 · May 17, 2018

Alibro said:
I've been thinking of getting one myself as they are dirt cheap now starting at around £100 delivered.

I've also been thinking about getting one Ali. They are so useful for the projects I like to make.

rob_bell · May 17, 2018

How difficult it is to create a 3D model in this things? I guess if you wanted 3D printed metal parts, you can get this outsourced, but plastic parts for DIY projects would be really useful!

Alibro · May 17, 2018

Nodge68 said:
I've also been thinking about getting one Ali. They are so useful for the projects I like to make.

rob_bell said:
How difficult it is to create a 3D model in this things? I guess if you wanted 3D printed metal parts, you can get this outsourced, but plastic parts for DIY projects would be really useful!

I've watched a few videos on Youtube about 3D printers. Most are made by idiots but a few know what they're talking about.
This young lad seems to know more than most
As always though you have to take into consideration he is making videos about 3D printers for a living so may have ulterior motives for saying what he does.
But maybe I'm being a bit cynical.

baptista · May 18, 2018

Alibro said:
I've been thinking of getting one myself as they are dirt cheap now starting at around £100 delivered.
Having said that if you want a half decent one then probably double that.

He bought a ANET A8, it was around €100, it came as a kit and he assembled the whole thing, the first weeks where spend on test printing, tuning and printing upgraded parts for the machine (to improve printing quality) after that he started printing stuff, 3D software is learn as you use (many "how to..." videos on you tube).

rob_bell · May 18, 2018

The indicator protector is really nicely finished - is this how it came out of the 3D printer?

4Bee4Bee · May 18, 2018

I find Tinkercad (which is a free online 3d design tool to be really easy and straightforward to use).
As far as the object coming out the printer goes, you can tell it has been 3D printed, with the layers showing slightly, but you can always improve the finish by sanding down and spraying. For car parts you need to use ABS rather than PLA, as it is more heat resistant. Also to print with ABS, you need a heated print bed, (which can normally be added to most DIY printers quite easily).

baptista · May 18, 2018

rob_bell said:
The indicator protector is really nicely finished - is this how it came out of the 3D printer?

sanded + 2 coats of plastic primer + 3 coats of matt black

4Bee4Bee said:
I find Tinkercad (which is a free online 3d design tool to be really easy and straightforward to use).
As far as the object coming out the printer goes, you can tell it has been 3D printed, with the layers showing slightly, but you can always improve the finish by sanding down and spraying. For car parts you need to use ABS rather than PLA, as it is more heat resistant. Also to print with ABS, you need a heated print bed, (which can normally be added to most DIY printers quite easily).

I don't know what software was used...
It was printed in PLA, this was a trial and error process and the infill also shows a lot, final stage will be printing in ABS with 100% infill so it won't show as much layering and will be more resistant too, printer has a heated bed

tlo · May 19, 2018

Changed the front brakes, checked and copper greased the back brakes plenty of meat left on them what a relief and changed the condenser

that was fun .I now have working aircon

for now at least

richfish1 · May 20, 2018

Changed the engine oil and filter, air filter and replaced a faulty bulb. Then had some mud tyres fitted at the tyre centre.
Need to change the autobox oil soon, not a job I've done before.

MollyNomad · May 20, 2018

Well, not so much today(yesterday??) but so far this week, I have dissembled the rear brakes, reassembled 'said' brakes and adjusted as per 'Bill Haynes'.......Still out of adjustment so will have another go. Had a good 'looksee' underneath, requires rear shock absorbers for MOT. Been to local specialist to ask about there stock etc and whilst there bought two GKN prop bearings. The ones on the TD4 were 'shot'( the rear most worryling so) but my daughter stopped driving it a few weeks back so hopefully no other damage caused. Removed propshaft(s) and VCU, seperated the support bearings(after buying a bearing/gear puller) Unfortunately in my endeavours have trashed a UJ so that needs ordering along with shocks..... :-S On a succesful note, 'redid' a leakback test, eyeballed what injector was most probably faulty, sourced and fitted a 'known' good injector...car now runs a LOT better, thank you very much....annnnd a day before that I fitted the fuel pressure sensor loom to the ECU box using the advice from one excellent 'how to' post on here(sorry can't remember the person's name/when I get it I will give credit) Quite proud of that little job, very neat and tidy.(drilled into ECU housing next to battery../Right angled grommet with those three wires looks very professional. Some frustrations and some successes....Classic FL ownership week I guess?

MollyNomad · May 20, 2018

Alibro said:
I've watched a few videos on Youtube about 3D printers. Most are made by idiots but a few know what they're talking about.
This young lad seems to know more than most
As always though you have to take into consideration he is making videos about 3D printers for a living so may have ulterior motives for saying what he does.
But maybe I'm being a bit cynical.

Had never considered a 3D printer but then, when I was a 'sad sack' and watched 'Wheeler Dealers' Ed China used one to make some inserts/light mounts to fit in the original lanterns on a vintage car so that he could run better lighting for the London to Brighton Rally. Thinking if you get it right, all the cogs etc in so many electrical mechanisms that break could be remanufactured at home in your own time. Think the most important thing to do is to make another 3D printer out of the one upyou already have.....something like Star Trek...just in case in breaks down itself!!!

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