v8250
Well-Known Member
Near snap. Drove it, added £47 diesel. Drove it some more venturing cross county borders into the wilds of Wiltshire, stayed overnight, drove back to civilisation this morning. Now to drive it some more on a Sainsbury's shopping run...forgot the Douwe Egberts and family sized pack loo roll the other day
eta: mine doesn't have a farmers frontal muff
Zed.
Well-Known Member
I so want to question this re. labour's open-border ideas....
on a similar direction, I'm looking at buying a passanger wing heater air-intake snow-covers for the Ninety
Rich.
doriz
Well-Known Member
Don’t you’ll regret it - same reason I took the faux snorkel off - I realised one day I was acting like a cockwomble. I have a 200tdi snorkel for sale if anyone wants be a cockwomble too?I so want to question this re. labour's open-border ideas....
on a similar direction, I'm looking at buying a passanger wing heater air-intake snow-covers for the Ninety
Rich.
v8250
Well-Known Member
What a great early Autumnal day/weekend for Land Rover driving...back from Wiltshire overnight, off to Sainsbugs for Douwe Egberts and loo roll.
Back home for lunch then fitted the TD5 type attached to the lower door rubber seals that I didn't fit a few months back. Chose to only drill holes for the side trees as didn't want lots of holes along door frame bottom. Here, used HD spray adhesive giving door and rubber seal two good coats, let tack off for a minute and carefully fitted. Painted the 4x holes, paint dry, then Dinitrol'd the door frames through the new holes. Both seals fit like a glove to the doors and inner sill covers, no under door air coming into the cabin...result. Now need a good downpour for water ingress testing.
Then took a jar full of T-Wash to a friend who's rebuilding his Series2A doors with new door frames.
Back home for lunch then fitted the TD5 type attached to the lower door rubber seals that I didn't fit a few months back. Chose to only drill holes for the side trees as didn't want lots of holes along door frame bottom. Here, used HD spray adhesive giving door and rubber seal two good coats, let tack off for a minute and carefully fitted. Painted the 4x holes, paint dry, then Dinitrol'd the door frames through the new holes. Both seals fit like a glove to the doors and inner sill covers, no under door air coming into the cabin...result. Now need a good downpour for water ingress testing.
Then took a jar full of T-Wash to a friend who's rebuilding his Series2A doors with new door frames.
Land Rover frustration
1986 petrol 90 has been running nicely until a few wee ago. New centre box in the exhaust and now it’s mis firing and running rich or lean if it runs at all. The occasional back fire and if it starts it’s really rough until it cuts out. Slightest touch of the throttle or choke and it dies. today I stripped and rebuilt the carb, ordered a carb kit from the chaps at Fast Road Cars and hope it’s the right fix for next time so I can get on with the rear drive shaft oil seal. Just when I thought it was nearly done….
1986 petrol 90 has been running nicely until a few wee ago. New centre box in the exhaust and now it’s mis firing and running rich or lean if it runs at all. The occasional back fire and if it starts it’s really rough until it cuts out. Slightest touch of the throttle or choke and it dies. today I stripped and rebuilt the carb, ordered a carb kit from the chaps at Fast Road Cars and hope it’s the right fix for next time so I can get on with the rear drive shaft oil seal. Just when I thought it was nearly done….
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Removed rear ifor Williams cover so I could take out the wild camping bed conversion. Won’t be needing this for a few months.
Reattached canopy.
Now filled up with garden rubbish ready for a tip run
Reattached canopy.
Now filled up with garden rubbish ready for a tip run
moremuckmush
Well-Known Member
Got the Chinese cab heater plumbed into the truck ( positioned the unit under drivers seat ), the supplied fuel tank is temp fixed in the truck bed but will change this to something more aesthetically pleasing,( smaller the better so looking to see what the fuel consumption will be like allowing me to calculate how small I can go) , the heater is just to clear the mist / frost quickly on a morning so won't be running for ages . Wiring to do tomorrow then test. I fitted the exhaust silencer which is fixed to the underside of the footwell to keep it out of site , will load some pics up when done.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
You can get away with a cycling water bottle. This will last over a week in constant use.
moremuckmush
Well-Known Member
First class pal thanks, I was hoping flask size will sort prior to test , it's a single cab truck, be ok mounting that behind the drivers seat ? I've got the fuel pump and filter there already.
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
Went to the recycling centre and back. Still sounds like a tube train from t box or rear diff. Suggestions welcome.
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
General check over on my 200Tdi 90, adjusted the handbrake up a bit, checked all UJ's / track rod ends / bearings, all good except the drop arm was slightly loose on the splines !! (exactly the same as on my RRC the other day!!) tightened up and all good.
Swapped the wheels around to even out any wear and adjusted the rear drum brakes, one of those things where wear happens so slowly that you don't notice it, now I keep getting surprised every time I use the brakes, the pedal is hard in the top 1/3rd of travel.
Swapped the wheels around to even out any wear and adjusted the rear drum brakes, one of those things where wear happens so slowly that you don't notice it, now I keep getting surprised every time I use the brakes, the pedal is hard in the top 1/3rd of travel.
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
I've done that starting with front prop, no change, the rear and the noise ceased. Because of this it's narrowed down to trans box or rear diff. Transfer box was rebuilt by jm a few years ago. The only difference was a noise started directly after a doe test. I resolved this by removing rear prop, driving for a bit then putting it back on. This new whine has started after that so I assume damage has been done. Although diff lock it working fine, I don't know the sound of a damaged centre diff because of an improper brake test. The diff is difficult to turn by hand when the prop is removed. Could be coincidence?Have you tried removing 1 prop at a time and driving?
J
Kimbo 110
Well-Known Member
Looks good, I am just jealous of them footwells !
congo181
Well-Known Member
The driver side is original and the passengers side is a replacement. Obviously it’s all been painted too.
