cappers said:
Finished off the bulkhead corner repairs with some skim filler, primer and Trident Green.
Far from perfect but not out of place with the dings, dents, scratches and patination of my 36 year old Landy :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
I have filled and sanded the bulkhead on my 1985 110, then used Acid Etch primer as I was down to some bare metal and the hinges are alloy. Trouble was I got a reaction in a few areas (see attached) and I was pretty certain I had sanded and cleaned (incl tack cloth) pretty thoroughly. Sanded down these bits and used a different primer and whilst got a tiny reaction, seems to have cured it.
IMG_8601.JPG
 
Globalforester said:
I have filled and sanded the bulkhead on my 1985 110, then used Acid Etch primer as I was down to some bare metal and the hinges are alloy. Trouble was I got a reaction in a few areas (see attached) and I was pretty certain I had sanded and cleaned (incl tack cloth) pretty thoroughly. Sanded down these bits and used a different primer and whilst got a tiny reaction, seems to have cured it.
View attachment 248317
Click to expand...
I’ve got the same alloy hinges on my windshield and wasn’t sure how to paint them. When did they do away with the hinged windshield?
 
congo181 said:
I’ve got the same alloy hinges on my windshield and wasn’t sure how to paint them. When did they do away with the hinged windshield?
Click to expand...
I think that technically windshield should still hinge but mine is fixed. As far as painting - the alloy if it is exposed may have white dust on and whilst I sanded that before using the acid etch primer, maybe not enough to get a shiny surface (hence the bubbling on that bit?).
 
Engine Oil & Oil/Fuel/Air Filters changed on the 300tdi 90 - Black Treacle came out!

Oil Filter on way too tight, probably been on for years - had to butcher it to get it off, one of the fiddliest things to get at ever. Took an Hour to get off, 5mins to refit the new one…..

Must get it steam cleaned as I was half Al Jolson when I’d finished…..

Injector spill off pipes/banjos/glow plugs next.

North Cotswold Brewery GreenMan IPA has been a nice reward though….
 
Globalforester said:
I have filled and sanded the bulkhead on my 1985 110, then used Acid Etch primer as I was down to some bare metal and the hinges are alloy. Trouble was I got a reaction in a few areas (see attached) and I was pretty certain I had sanded and cleaned (incl tack cloth) pretty thoroughly. Sanded down these bits and used a different primer and whilst got a tiny reaction, seems to have cured it.
View attachment 248317
Click to expand...


@Globalforester , this reaction type is normally from acetone/solvent cleaner still on/in the metal to be sprayed [alloy/s are much more porous than steel]. First trick is to allow good flash off time between degreaser/cleaner, primer and first coat. Second trick is to use light heat to warm up the area to be sprayed after degreaser/cleaner, promotes flash off. A heat gun on low-mid temp' works perfectly for this, passing the heat gun in slow sweeping motion. Also, you may have
  1. a chemical reaction between two different manufacturers product [primer and paint] - here, it's always worth buying primer/s and paints from same manufacturer where they in house test compatibility, i.e. U-Pol, Paintman.
  2. the paint type doesn't like the acid etch - here, a good zinc primer usually works.
 
v8250 said:
@Globalforester , this reaction type is normally from acetone/solvent cleaner still on/in the metal to be sprayed [alloy/s are much more porous than steel]. First trick is to allow good flash off time between degreaser/cleaner, primer and first coat. Second trick is to use light heat to warm up the area to be sprayed after degreaser/cleaner, promotes flash off. A heat gun on low-mid temp' works perfectly for this, passing the heat gun in slow sweeping motion. Also, you may have
  1. a chemical reaction between two different manufacturers product [primer and paint] - here, it's always worth buying primer/s and paints from same manufacturer where they in house test compatibility, i.e. U-Pol, Paintman.
  2. the paint type doesn't like the acid etch - here, a good zinc primer usually works.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the excellent advice - maybe we should have a forum for painting Landys!
I did think about using a heat gun but anyway, I followed the acid etch by sanding down the bubbles/ripples and then applied a zinc primer.
The point about using the same manufacturer was not the issue as the reaction was when I applied the first coat of acid etch primer i.e. could have been a reaction with old paint (it had 3 different colours and some sort of white primer between the first and second colours).
Seems to have settled down but I suspect that the issue was with the underlying paint as the reason I painted the bulkhead was the amount of paint flaking off. So perhaps what I should have done is gone back to bare metal (where I did that there were no problems).
Question - has anyone used either epoxy primer or hammerite on difficult surfaces?
 
Globalforester said:
Thanks for the excellent advice - maybe we should have a forum for painting Landys!
I did think about using a heat gun but anyway, I followed the acid etch by sanding down the bubbles/ripples and then applied a zinc primer.
The point about using the same manufacturer was not the issue as the reaction was when I applied the first coat of acid etch primer i.e. could have been a reaction with old paint (it had 3 different colours and some sort of white primer between the first and second colours).
Seems to have settled down but I suspect that the issue was with the underlying paint as the reason I painted the bulkhead was the amount of paint flaking off. So perhaps what I should have done is gone back to bare metal (where I did that there were no problems).
Question - has anyone used either epoxy primer or hammerite on difficult surfaces?
Click to expand...

There's your problem. 1. always take down to bare metal. 2. if not do-able you need to use a tiecoat primer. 3. don't use acid etch together with zinc primers...there's no need. 4. many manufacturers paints are not composed to use either acid etch, or zinc - here, really important to read the label!

Why the need for epoxy primer? If prep'd correctly there's no need.

Under no circumstances uses Hammerite, it's watered down **** and there are far better paint products readily available - you need to describe/put up pics of difficult surfaces.
 
Guid afternoon
Front bumper removed, bolts pretty tight but breaker bar did its job
Front end of chassis in good nick, gave it a quick going over with wire brush and applied black rattle can paint
B:cool:umper pretty corroded at the back, but nothing a significant amount of elbow grease won't fix.
Will get it rubbed down and paint it over the weekend hopefully
IMG_20210923_134305025.jpg
IMG_20210923_110627038.jpg
 
v8250 said:
There's your problem. 1. always take down to bare metal. 2. if not do-able you need to use a tiecoat primer. 3. don't use acid etch together with zinc primers...there's no need. 4. many manufacturers paints are not composed to use either acid etch, or zinc - here, really important to read the label!

Why the need for epoxy primer? If prep'd correctly there's no need.

Under no circumstances uses Hammerite, it's watered down **** and there are far better paint products readily available - you need to describe/put up pics of difficult surfaces.
Click to expand...
Just to explain - last time I did any paint work on a car we are talking over 4 decades ago, so paints have changed (I did not use a tiecoat then). I agree, I should have probably gone back to bare metal
The reason I mentioned Hammerite is because someone I know uses that and then puts a top coat on it. Similarly, I had never heard of epoxy primer, which apparently stick to bare metal, paints, primers and fillers - so it seemed useful if not wanting to take back to bare metal the whole section.
 
Looks like I'll have to rebuild my rear diff. Trying to trace the whining noise. Was going to change rear output bearing and flange in the transfer box but bearing seems good . I pulled the new halfshafts and tried turning the diff on its own. Stiff as f#ck and growls although no up down or sideways movement. Stuck it all back together for another day.
 
Adjusted the alternator to accommodate the slightly stretched V-belt on the 200Tdi. And fitted the new temp sender as the old one had given up. The old one was 18mm, the new one 20mm... :rolleyes:

And the sump is weeping slightly so needs resealing... :rolleyes: But at least the temp gauge is working now. :)
 
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