meego
Well-Known Member
Can I borrow your pressure washer ??
--ped--
Active Member
yes mate mains dip fans and spots with two spare relays
mains dip and fan are on 20a and spot feed is 40a(two 20a feeds but a 40a relay)
Alpinewoodsman
Well-Known Member
Replaced the rear shock absorbers.
Standard Landrover timings- 80% of the to get the old ones with seized bolts off, minutes to drop in new replacements.
Standard Landrover timings- 80% of the to get the old ones with seized bolts off, minutes to drop in new replacements.
Good resultThe 90 has an MoT for another year! A couple of minor advisories and a new centre and rear exhaust. I’m happy!
Alpinewoodsman
Well-Known Member
Pulled the radius arms off, and got them into the workshop for new bushes before the heat arrived. Then my wife interrupted me saying it was time to light the BBQ.
EDIT:
Post BBQ, got the old rubber/metal bushes out with much cursing, lubricant and hammering, cleaned it all up, stuck in the new poly ones ( a bit of M14 threaded rod and nuts to pull them in makes it easy!), and stuck a coat of paint on while they were on the bench, so it'll be dry for tomorrow morning.
EDIT:
Post BBQ, got the old rubber/metal bushes out with much cursing, lubricant and hammering, cleaned it all up, stuck in the new poly ones ( a bit of M14 threaded rod and nuts to pull them in makes it easy!), and stuck a coat of paint on while they were on the bench, so it'll be dry for tomorrow morning.
Last edited:
Alpinewoodsman
Well-Known Member
Managed to get the radius arms back on. Either it's a tough job, or my chassis isn't quite straight...
It can be a struggle if the axle has moved on the stands. Can move easily too and it doesn't take much movement to cause a bit of hassle.
Alpinewoodsman
Well-Known Member
Got the shims out of my universal joints, and removed the vertical play in them. Went to do the easy job of sticking the tie rod back on, and notices the treads on one of the ball joints have got terminally bashed somehow in the last few day, and the silly thing won't come out... bigger hammer time tomorrow!
Fhit-Slicker
Member
Fitted my new slider, new pins, new R clips and new tow ball and almost fixed the cigarette lighter, cheap c*** one that causes a short when you push it in to heat up, bloody junk....................
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Put the battery on charge.
Birdbrain
Well-Known Member
Nightmare job completed.I've had a couple of OEM front calipers for my 92' 110 200tdi for awhile waiting to fit them. The ones we fitted to mine a few years ago were Britpart itmes and I've had nothing but problems with the inboard pistons sticking. The Landrover has a hard life in salt water and sand I was having to strip the front brakes and free the pistons every couple of months and its graduaally got worth.
Armed with the correct replacement bolts and a suitable socket I started work Friday afternoon....... and finished Sunday afternoon.
I tackeld the nearside first and the bottom bolt came out with no issues. The top bolt was corroded and even an Irwin wouldn't grip. I resorted to a cold chisel and lump hammer to try and 'rough' it up enough for the Irwin to grip. After 3 hours I managed to get the bolt out and replace the old calliper with a new one.
Come Saturday morning I set out to tackle the offside thinking it owuld be eaiser as, theoretically, the nearside is always the one in the mud and crap along our lanes. How wrong I was. The bottom bolt came out easily enough. I'm on a roll I thought. Next the top bolt.I couldn't get any purchase on the bolt head and it eventually became so rounded even the cold chisel trick didn't work. I had to resort to using a dremel to cut slots in what remained of the head and then using the chisel to break it off flush with the caliper. I then split the caliper and managed to get drill behind it to drill the bolt hole out to a larger diameter as there is no room to remove the caliper off the remains of the bolt. After a full day I was left with a bolt sticking out of the hub carrier and gave up and had a well earned shower and a few beers.
Sunday saw me applying heat to the stubborn bolt in copious quantities. Mole grips got the remains moving a fraction of a millimetre but eventually I couldn't get any grip as the surface was getting to smooth and theres no room to twist the Mole grips as they get fouled by the hub carrier. I resorted to cross - drilling a hole right through the remains of the bolt shaft and fastening an 8 mm stainless nut and bolt through it. This allowed me to hammer on a suitable sized socket and eventually remove the offending item - 6 hours later! Fitting the new calliper was straight forward and I reverse bled the brakes and took it ofr sa test drive. The braking seems definitely better but what a nightmare of a job. 2 1/2 days to replace 2 calipers that have been on the vehicle for around 3-4 years.
What was surprising is that it was the top bolts that were the ones severely corroded. I'd have expected the bottom ones to be the worst which is why I tackled them first. Thinking about it though the top ones sit in a 'recess' in the calliper that'll hold muck and water whereas the bottom ones, although closer to the muck, are more easily flushed. Whenever I take the Landrover across the beach I always jet wash the underside to get the worst of the salt and sand off but the top calliper bolts are inaccessible.
Armed with the correct replacement bolts and a suitable socket I started work Friday afternoon....... and finished Sunday afternoon.
I tackeld the nearside first and the bottom bolt came out with no issues. The top bolt was corroded and even an Irwin wouldn't grip. I resorted to a cold chisel and lump hammer to try and 'rough' it up enough for the Irwin to grip. After 3 hours I managed to get the bolt out and replace the old calliper with a new one.
Come Saturday morning I set out to tackle the offside thinking it owuld be eaiser as, theoretically, the nearside is always the one in the mud and crap along our lanes. How wrong I was. The bottom bolt came out easily enough. I'm on a roll I thought. Next the top bolt.I couldn't get any purchase on the bolt head and it eventually became so rounded even the cold chisel trick didn't work. I had to resort to using a dremel to cut slots in what remained of the head and then using the chisel to break it off flush with the caliper. I then split the caliper and managed to get drill behind it to drill the bolt hole out to a larger diameter as there is no room to remove the caliper off the remains of the bolt. After a full day I was left with a bolt sticking out of the hub carrier and gave up and had a well earned shower and a few beers.
Sunday saw me applying heat to the stubborn bolt in copious quantities. Mole grips got the remains moving a fraction of a millimetre but eventually I couldn't get any grip as the surface was getting to smooth and theres no room to twist the Mole grips as they get fouled by the hub carrier. I resorted to cross - drilling a hole right through the remains of the bolt shaft and fastening an 8 mm stainless nut and bolt through it. This allowed me to hammer on a suitable sized socket and eventually remove the offending item - 6 hours later! Fitting the new calliper was straight forward and I reverse bled the brakes and took it ofr sa test drive. The braking seems definitely better but what a nightmare of a job. 2 1/2 days to replace 2 calipers that have been on the vehicle for around 3-4 years.
What was surprising is that it was the top bolts that were the ones severely corroded. I'd have expected the bottom ones to be the worst which is why I tackled them first. Thinking about it though the top ones sit in a 'recess' in the calliper that'll hold muck and water whereas the bottom ones, although closer to the muck, are more easily flushed. Whenever I take the Landrover across the beach I always jet wash the underside to get the worst of the salt and sand off but the top calliper bolts are inaccessible.
Attachments
Nightmare job. Trouble with using in an area like that you will need to do that on a regular basis.
How's the chassis holding out?
Have you the means to heat the bolts prior to their removal ?
I would also suggest a smear of copperslip on the head and the shoulder and some low shear locktite (222) on the threads.
This will keep out the moisture so the bolt won't sieze onto the caliper body and will both hold fast and be easy to remove.
I would also suggest a smear of copperslip on the head and the shoulder and some low shear locktite (222) on the threads.
This will keep out the moisture so the bolt won't sieze onto the caliper body and will both hold fast and be easy to remove.
