Its a Kenwood. Works perfectly. I initially bought an adaptor for an iso harness, as someone had already fitted one for the new head unit. However, I should have bought a round pin BMW harness, as the wiring for the steering wheel wasnt present in the adaptor harness.
 
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Hello again everyone, After having enough of no headlining and the standard leaking sunroofs, I decided to take advantage of the decent weather and strip the sunroofs out, remove all the "playdough" that someone had used to attempt to seal the front and rear sunroofs. Removed the hoses and the drip trays maintenance. After scrapping all the corrosion from the drip trays where the plastic drains are installed, gave the areas where they seal a buff with a wire wheel in the drill and then treated with rust inhibitor, primed and then painted, More Sikaflex added to fix the drains back into the tray and left to set a while.
Removed the LED light bar and roof rack to get access.
Began to remove all the putty that was covering the glass and the plastics, remove the seals and remove all of that putty from the sealing surfaces.
So after cleaning everything that was going to be reused ( The glass, the holding tray and the drive gear for operating the sunroofs), Some panel wipe was used after painstakingly scrapping all the gunk off of everything to finish the surfaces. smeared some silicone grease around the sealing area for the new seals and installed them, (ebay for about 50 quid).
Buffed and polished the glass and refitted to holding trays. Fitted the drive mechanisms.
I used 2 beads of Sikaflex around the underside of the holding tray about 5mm apart (Slightly generous but not over doing it) & installed back into the roof.
Reinstalled the drip trays to secure them into the roof and fitted the drain hoses again.
Left them over night and into the next day which was also sunny (very rare for my part of the country) so used a garden hose on full tilt to check for leaks and after a good 20 mins of dousing both were dry.
So installed the roof rack again.
 

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I’m thinking of putting a insecticide smoke bomb in my Disco 2 to thwart all the nesting spiders in it since I SORN’d it in January.
It’s been a rest haven for spiders and other critters these past months.
 
I have a pretty bad hole myself in the same spot and was thinking of doing something similar. Is it structurally safe? It can't be worse than leaving it to rot? I don't have any MOTs to pass as my vehicle is off the road but I was thinking it would be a good project until I can afford a chassis swap.

How thick was the metal plate you used, sir?
tilly2 said:
Cleaned up, and weld through primered. New plate seam sealed welded in, then seam sealed. Just the other one to do now. Should keep the mot man happy. Deffo looking like a half chassis is on the cards.

View attachment 267590 View attachment 267591 View attachment 267592 View attachment 267593
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I was thinking the same thing, while working underneath the car today, toiling at the Xyz switch with a straight pipe exactly in the way, I noticed at least six wasps make their way in a drain hole which leads underneath the passengers seat. Now I can't wait to get everything fixed so I can drive through all the puddles.

JUKE179r said:
I’m thinking of putting a insecticide smoke bomb in my Disco 2 to thwart all the nesting spiders in it since I SORN’d it in January.
It’s been a rest haven for spiders and other critters these past months.
Click to expand...
 
Hiya folks, After getting the the dash lighting up at me all wheel bearings, hubs and abs sensors replaced.
Headlining installed and everything that goes along with that (due to the repaired sunroofs in previous posts).
replaced the switch on the bottom of the abs pump and returned the wiring to factory (removed the bypass)
Watts linkage replaced (Purchased from Grove auto engineering)
Modular wheels installed and MT Tyres (now requires lifting to stop them rubbing against the mud flaps)
Replaced the nearside front bumper finisher and both the fog lights.
Replaced the Instrument cluster surround with one that isn't broken.
Had a loss of autobox fluid which stopped me driving soon after, recovered to my local garage after a 2.5 hour journey on the back of a recovery truck, looking at auto box gearbox reconditioning and replacements on Ashcroft's website that evening, alas it was the cooling pipes (the left one had been struck by something and caused it to give up) 2 new pipes installed, flushed fluid, replaced filter and filled with new fluid (3rd time in 4 months). Back on the road again.

Not all done in a day I might add

Next will be, 2" suspension lift kit, everything brake related, Refurbishment of the headlights, fault find why the AC high side is over pressurized, not in that order, as MOT is due Next month
 

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Maat said:
I have a pretty bad hole myself in the same spot and was thinking of doing something similar. Is it structurally safe? It can't be worse than leaving it to rot? I don't have any MOTs to pass as my vehicle is off the road but I was thinking it would be a good project until I can afford a chassis swap.

How thick was the metal plate you used, sir?
Click to expand...

2mm plate. It was just a hole before, and I used to bash it about our field with no issues. Like you said, better than before. Im considering a 1400mm chassis but to be honest, is it really cost effective, as these old Discos rot away everywhere else as well. If I had the skills, Id remove both mounting plates, cut out and plate up a new section, and weld in a new spring and shock mounts. These are not going anywhere soon, and a bit of paint will keep the MOT happy.
 
tilly2 said:
2mm plate. It was just a hole before, and I used to bash it about our field with no issues. Like you said, better than before. Im considering a 1400mm chassis but to be honest, is it really cost effective, as these old Discos rot away everywhere else as well. If I had the skills, Id remove both mounting plates, cut out and plate up a new section, and weld in a new spring and shock mounts. These are not going anywhere soon, and a bit of paint will keep the MOT happy.
Click to expand...

No, I definitely don't think it can be considered cost effective, but I for one, never got one of these cars expecting so. They rot everywhere except the body (somehow?) and the front chassis where the engine leaks keep a protective film. I was cleaning mine these days and found the original paint that looks as if it just rolled out the factory.
 
Front air valve block replacement today on the D3, only changed it two years ago as well. Also did the seals on the steering rack pipes as it had started to leak.

Healthy D3 again
 
Spending an afternoon at the grandparents farm I ended up using my d1 to tow a tractor out of a ditch. She might be rotten but she still has her uses. The best part of the incident is the driver of the tractor hates landrovers in general. So I will of course never let him forget how a discovery pulled him out of the sh1t.
 
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