Conclusion - It's certainly no worse than the VDO unit and my advice to anyone who is considering whether it's worth buying the genuine LR MAF over the VDO one would be to save the £90 and get the VDO because the difference just isn't worth the extra cost. :)

Thankyou for the concise and interesting report....VDO it is....now can we return to the forum norm??............Brexit, brexit, brexit...boats.

Cheers
 
Test drive complete.

1. Was there any difference between the VDO MAF and genuine LR MAF? - I have to admit that there was a positive improvement.
2. Was it better because I know I'd just installed the genuine unit? - Highly likely, but there no way to tell unless I do as Neilly suggested and do a blind test.
3. Was it worth the extra £90 over the VDO unit? - I have to honestly say no :eek:
4. Am I angry and disappointed that the difference wasn't as much as I thought? - No, not at all. I had a mental itch because I knew I wasn't using the genuine unit, and I had to try it in order to scratch the itch.

Conclusion - It's certainly no worse than the VDO unit and my advice to anyone who is considering whether it's worth buying the genuine LR MAF over the VDO one would be to save the £90 and get the VDO because the difference just isn't worth the extra cost. :)
So, in your opinion, what was the difference? A good test would be to drive a certain route with it unplugged, then drive exactly the same route plugged in and see how it feels.
Edit- I suppose it won't show you the difference between VDO and genuine but it will show the difference between no maf and the best you can buy.
 
So, in your opinion, what was the difference? A good test would be to drive a certain route with it unplugged, then drive exactly the same route plugged in and see how it feels.
I think the most obvious difference was that it was smoother under a good load between about 2200 and 3200 rpm, other than that, it was more of a feeling... quite hard to explain... It just felt 'better'..

Edit: If I'd had the Nanocom connected I doubt very much if the figures would have been much different from the VDO.
 
I think the most obvious difference was that it was smoother under a good load between about 2200 and 3200 rpm, other than that, it was more of a feeling... quite hard to explain... It just felt 'better'..
Just not £160 worth of 'better'... o_O
 
I'd be really interested to know how different it feels between unplugged and a fully working genuine MAF though.
I'll see what I can do at the weekend.
I'll do a 30 min run with it disconnected, and do exactly the same route again with it connected and see if I can fine tune where the improvements are.
 
Yup... didn't you do yours a while back?
Yeah, I eventually replaced every single bush trying to chase down a clunk... eventually found mine was caused by the drop links.
At least I won't need to worry about any of them for a few years ;)
 
Yeah, I eventually replaced every single bush trying to chase down a clunk... eventually found mine was caused by the drop links.
Mine is definitely the watts bushes, only appears to be the top bush on the centre part, there didn't seem to be any movement in the others when rocked. Where did you get yours? Saw some poly bush ones on eBay for £99, are polys any good?
 
Mine is definitely the watts bushes, only appears to be the top bush on the centre part, there didn't seem to be any movement in the others when rocked. Where did you get yours? Saw some poly bush ones one eBay for £99, are polys any good?
I got all mine from LRDirect and I chose to buy original.
A lot more expensive than the others, but I didn't really want to have to replace them again in a hurry. I'd heard negative things about the poly ones, which aided my decision to go original.
 
I got all mine from LRDirect and I chose to buy original.
A lot more expensive than the others, but I didn't really want to have to replace them again in a hurry. I'd heard negative things about the poly ones, which aided my decision to go original.
Hmm. I've read that polys are fine on watts linkage but britpart definitely not! I'll do a bit more research. My MOT is next month though I've read a few cases of MOT passes with worn watts bushes and not seen anyone mention failing due to them. Though I would think it should fail.
 
Strarted ceaning the interior- that's going to be a MASSIVE job.
Got the fault code read to try and solve my SRS problem. RH pretensioner is open circuit, so something to investigate when I get back home on Monday.
 
Changed the rear pads , discs and calipers.

Now need to look at the water pump, so got one ordered, that will be next weekends job.

Cheers
 
Map sensor clean today
2D0B8669-45E0-4B77-A061-5DFD76C01FCF.jpeg
 
Cleared all the old sealant from the sunroofs because it was doing absolutely nothing... Resealed between the body and the sunroof frames with sikoflex, Hey presto, no more leaks :)
 

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