I het this occasionally when it's really hot outsideOn the way to the pub last night, my P38 did the old "jump to wade height" (just once), but caught it in time & pressed down on the height switch. It has certainly done it less since I sorted the left rear height sensor looseness. Definitely cannot be tracking between the white connector height switch wires because the connectors no longer exist !! Maybe I need to check the other sensors.
Doesn't seem to matter what the temp is. It's definitely reduced occurences after my sensor arm fix. Planning to do a Nanocom recording on next trip over a few miles & see what the sensor variations look like.I het this occasionally when it's really hot outside
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Likely to be the driver pack IMO.On the way to the pub last night, my P38 did the old "jump to wade height" (just once), but caught it in time & pressed down on the height switch
Could be, but the challenge is finding a good one. I have a couple in the garage that definitely have dry joints on 1 or 2 of the the input wires underneath the compound. The one in the car passed my bench test of operating the solenoids whilst wriggling the wires.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
All the duff ones that I have had, it's been a faulty 63 volt 100uf electrolytic allowing spikes from the solenoids back to the ECU.
Dopey
Well-Known Member
I don't think they do much myself, they are so small they make little difference, you need more that the whole roof to get anything out of them to top a battery the size of a P38Apparently, sticking flexible solar panels to the bonnet is now a thing, with folks making 'kits'!!!
Sounds insane to me. Solar panels don't like heat, so let's stick it on the hottest part of the car with no air flow underneath
Graculus
Well-Known Member
I used one on my L322 with an 020 battery, it made a noticeable difference to the number of times the '....not available' message appeared during cranking through winter, it was a 30W panel, about 2/3 the size of the sunroof (and that's where it was placed) but crucially it's output voltage was 14V, not 12.5V, so the 2.1Amps it was capable of producing were pushed into the battery rather than idly wandering along the wiring...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
A 20 watt panel ( no load voltage 18-21 volts) via a charge controller keeps my P38 batteries fully charged winter or summer. The controller outputs 14.8 volts just like the car regulator and folds back as the state of charge nears full.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Most are made in China and most commercial panels output 18/21 volts off load but there are some that are 5 volts or 12 volts which are not a lot of good for a car battery.
That looks quite a large MEEP.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
On sunny days I get a touch over 800ma on overcast days it can be as low as 30ma but overall it's enough to keep the P38 batteries in a good state of charge. To charge a flat battery will obviously take some time. I have just installed 3Kw of solar panels at my house, today it's dark and raining so the output is only 200 watts or thereabouts.
