How comes I need two weeks for a two hour job? Well, either way, I redrilled the flanges for the new exhaust yesterday, those shoupd fit (I didn't have the courage to try today...). And, today, I cleaber each and every leaky joint between transfer case, gear box, engine and oil cooler thermostat and re-sealed them with high-temp silicone. Looks nice now with all those red stripes!

Tomorrow I'll start with the new exhaust, which leaves calibrating the carbs and the front light before I go to my trusted MOT / TÜV test engineer, hoping I'm controlled by the cops as I am one year over the last MOT.

After that, two and half weeks of vacation!
 
Sooo... The new exhaust is installed! Not leaking, as far as I can tell, and it looks great! Once I'm done with my, dare I say well deserved, beer, I'll clean her up a bit. Tomorrow carbs, lights and checkong of the missing paper work and findings from the last MOT / TÜV.

Just one thing: One of the bolts on the exhaust manifold lost his thread, and the bolt is attacjed to the manifold. Right hand side, so accessibility sucks. Any ideas? Right now the exhaust is attached with two bolts, and for good measure I'll apply some exhaust sealant to the joint. Long term so, I don't like that, at all. And I am affraid recutting the thread would require, at least, to remove the new exhaust. Are there any repair kits, self-cutting bolt heads or something?

Any way, I am quite happy for my first day of vacation work!
 
Ha, found it! There are self-cutting nuts, e.g. from Würth. Only need to find someone who sells those in quantities <1000!
 
Ok, I have one last question, and hope someone can ease my, well, unease before going on a 220km round trip to the testing station. When I installed the new exhaust, the right tube going to the manifold was a pain to fit, really really tight. I followed the manual, starting from the rear. I left all connection loose as well, just to be sure. And it did fit.

Now so, there are vibrations on the engine on the right side and some metallic noise clearly coming from the exhaust. I have the fear the right tubr is just a tad too tight on the enigine. Is this prone to cause any damage to the engine or other bits and pieces? And what can I do, except re-installing the whole thing hoping to get a better fit?

None of this was present with the old exhaust nor with the exhaust off (I am sure my neighbors loved those 10 minutes!), so I am quite sure it is not engine related.

Thanks already, the test is scheduled for today late afternoon, not tomorrow (!!!!!), but I couldd potentially postpone it if needed.
 
hef19898 said:
Ha, found it! There are self-cutting nuts, e.g. from Würth. Only need to find someone who sells those in quantities <1000!
Click to expand...

My experience with manifold bolts / nuts is that they're heat cycle hardened, brittle with rust and hard as hell to drill or cut.

As for the rattle: heat shields touching somewhere? You might be able to slacken the joins slightly to adjust alignment a little.
 
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our view from the tailgate last night👌😎
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Nice images Mark, especially number 1, 3 and 4!

As or the rattle and vibration, I just loosened everything, knacked the exhaust around a bit, after a small knack it floated freely. Only two location where touches a heatshield, just barely, and the chassis, it seems. Some more pushing and pulling to be done! But the rattle, noise and vibration in the engine bay are all gone, no difference to before.

So, I just leave it with two bolts attached, and wait and see? After all it is tight and doesn't leak at all.

Man, those cars are worse than houses, at least with a house you tebd to have a couple of days where all ends and corners are done simultaniously... But that's just part of the charm, isn't it?
 
Grrrrrr said:
My feeling is that if that seal has failed and it is still on its original FIP then it is time to bite the bullet and get a refurbed unit from Diesel Jones.
Click to expand...
Okay, I'll have to touch base with them, see what they have available for me. Given I'm on 272k miles, its probably done its time in hell.
 
Ah, so no MOT... Same ignition timing issues that were, more or less, solved after JLR botched the cam shat installation. I say botched, because it started after that, so the timing chain isn't mounted correctly. Luckily I found a mechanic that, in his words, isn't affraid of tackling it over winter. Was again ready to sell it, until my dad propossed to take the old lady again to Tunesia and, finally, to Iceland. So she still has a purpose, and a wellness cure planned for the winter... Still sucks...
 
Spent the day deciding whether or not to tackle the non working heated seats in my lovely P38. It's the last thing left ( excluding paintwork ) after a ton of work restoring her. Still can't decide if worth the effort .....
 
hef19898 said:
Nice images Mark, especially number 1, 3 and 4!

As or the rattle and vibration, I just loosened everything, knacked the exhaust around a bit, after a small knack it floated freely. Only two location where touches a heatshield, just barely, and the chassis, it seems. Some more pushing and pulling to be done! But the rattle, noise and vibration in the engine bay are all gone, no difference to before.

So, I just leave it with two bolts attached, and wait and see? After all it is tight and doesn't leak at all.

Man, those cars are worse than houses, at least with a house you tebd to have a couple of days where all ends and corners are done simultaniously... But that's just part of the charm, isn't it?
Click to expand...

I doubt they put excess fixings on. Heat cycles might warp it over time and then you're looking at a new manifold. Sooner rather than later you're going to have to tackle it. Can you get at it with the wheel-arch liner removed?
 
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