that's a big bucket of shampoo...
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Sorry.. you change the oil and filter every 4 months?Nice day for once so gave the engine an oil and filter change. Do it every 4 months anyway. Only seems like yesterday I did the last one. Where has time gone
Ignore, i see it's already been said
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Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
I suspect the difference is between dry pure nitrogen and ordinary air containing water. The speed and temperature will boil a little of the water in the air, which at approx 700:1 expansion will make a noticeable difference to the pressure.
doriz
Well-Known Member
When the garage did my brake pipes I said don’t use a 2 post ramp. Anyway, they did and now it’s running round too high, and has thrown the 4 lights of death on 2 occasions since. Once I get time I’ll recalibrate the system.
The difference in size is negligible. Moreover, molecules aren't hard balls as often depicted in science books. They're squidgy things like those foam tennis-balls. In short, they're both going to leak the same amount.
Water vapour is definitely present in any compressor output unless you use a dryer (like the EAS on the Rangie) and if that does condense then that difference in volume will be relatively large until the tyre heats up and it vapourises again. Again though, unless you're racing you're really not going to notice much.
Probably not a calibration issue rather than dirt on a sensor track causing a soft fault. Try just clearing the fault or failing that, moving the arm over full travel a few times and clear the faults.
Or a worn link that needs pushing back into position.. like a worn out shoulder that's been dislocated to many times
Have to bite the bullet and attempt the FIP seals in situ. Really wanted to pay someone to do it, but absolutely nowhere round here will touch it. Best offer I had was they could whip it off and send it away for recon. 500 just for the pump, not including labour and it can take upwards of 10 days to come back.
Never thought it'd be so difficult to give someone money. But it is leaking too much to pass MoT now, and since that's due next week I am out of options. Gotta cross the fingers for good weather this weekend and getter done. Worst case scenario she doesn't work after, but then without MoT she is no good to me anyway.
Never thought it'd be so difficult to give someone money. But it is leaking too much to pass MoT now, and since that's due next week I am out of options. Gotta cross the fingers for good weather this weekend and getter done. Worst case scenario she doesn't work after, but then without MoT she is no good to me anyway.
I am hoping that is all I have to do. I plundered some leak detector spray from work, so I can clean up the area, spray it down and then run round the block. Hopefully it is just to lid that is leaking so I don't have to play with the QA block or touch the rear "head" seal. Though I did take some fuel tank sealant which I was planning on applying a thin layer between the head and the block if that needed doing. If it can survive pressure refuels and vacuum defuels, and almost 1000kg of AVTUR. Plus the stresses of flight, I am sure it'll be reet for my application.
Does anyone know the right way to adjust camber on the front of an l322? I assume it's the same across the model years?
I've seen some say you adjust the strut at the top, under the bonnet and I've seen others say it's by way of of an eccentric cam washer on the lower bush, loosen the bolt and rotate as needed.
I've seen some say you adjust the strut at the top, under the bonnet and I've seen others say it's by way of of an eccentric cam washer on the lower bush, loosen the bolt and rotate as needed.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It would take a lot of movement at the top to make a small difference so I would expect the adjustment to be at the bottom, but as I thankfully don't know the L322, that is pure guesswork.
Hammer on a 7 mm socket you're not fond of or a cheap one off eBay. I cannot recall what size bokt it is for the replacement.
I ordered the special tool for the security bolt, so that's not a concern. It is an expensive tool for what will be one time use item, but it seemed easier than trying to source a replacement bolt.
