Rubberknees said:
Got my directors chair out this morning and helped my brilliant neighbour change the rear discs , calipers and carriers. Those 12 point carrier studs are a pitta . 3 of the 4 needed the use of the special sockets for removing rounded nuts and bolts. Fortunately as per experience I had bought all new studs, banjo connections etc. Any with the proper direction the job was done and now all new brakes on the back.
Cost in labour 1 case of Fosters as he won't take cash off me. The guy is a top man:):vb-angel1::vb-angel::vb-angel2:
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Gonna have to do rear pads and discs on mine soon as one side is really really badly scored especially for have them done recently, I think it was for the last mot right @kermit_rr ? I bet when the garage did it they didn’t bother regreasing the slide pins.
 
Im (and my son) are cracking on with the SII, just so you don't think I am LandyLess
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Rubberknees said:
Got my directors chair out this morning and helped my brilliant neighbour change the rear discs , calipers and carriers. Those 12 point carrier studs are a pitta . 3 of the 4 needed the use of the special sockets for removing rounded nuts and bolts. Fortunately as per experience I had bought all new studs, banjo connections etc. Any with the proper direction the job was done and now all new brakes on the back.
Cost in labour 1 case of Fosters as he won't take cash off me. The guy is a top man:):vb-angel1::vb-angel::vb-angel2:
Click to expand...

If only all neighbors were like that the world would be a better place, a true gent he is :)
 
So I just noticed when looking at @Andy Burrell engine bay pics his throttle cable and cruise control cable are the opposite to mine as in on mine the throttle cable is onto the throttle body running closest to the radiator and the cruise control is closest to the bulkhead if you catch my meaning, and Andy’s throttle cable is closest the to the bulkhead and cruise control closest to the radiator.

What is the correct way? Even though I in theory adjusted properly maybe this might account for that little bit of swimming I get on cruise control.
 
Khemitude said:
So I just noticed when looking at @Andy Burrell engine bay pics his throttle cable and cruise control cable are the opposite to mine as in on mine the throttle cable is onto the throttle body running closest to the radiator and the cruise control is closest to the bulkhead if you catch my meaning, and Andy’s throttle cable is closest the to the bulkhead and cruise control closest to the radiator.

What is the correct way? Even though I in theory adjusted properly maybe this might account for that little bit of swimming I get on cruise control.
Click to expand...
i tried to copy as per pics in rave, but they are hard to see
i think... theres 2 different shapes to the cams, on is round, one is oval.. the oval one should be for the pedal, the round one for cruise. thats to change the throttle action at the pedal during low input driving
 
kermit_rr said:
i tried to copy as per pics in rave, but they are hard to see
i think... theres 2 different shapes to the cams, on is round, one is oval.. the oval one should be for the pedal, the round one for cruise. thats to change the throttle action at the pedal during low input driving
Click to expand...
Yeah I agree looking at rave it’s hard to tell. Though it kinda looks like cruise control cable is closest to the radiator in rave but hard to tell that’s why I thought I would double check with what everyone else says, should be easy enough to swap if it is the wrong way round.
 
Since I got the lpg sorted I’d noticed the coolant hoses staying hard even after 12+ hours of sitting over night and releasing the pressure via the tank cap seems to bring the coolant level back to where it should be as it was obviously being forced lower down due to excess pressure though not actually losing coolant since replacing those bits of hoses and nipping up a couple of other clamps.

So I suspected gas might be getting into the system from the lpg reducers so today I thought i would take the lpg fuse out so no gas should run to them and just run it off petrol for today and see if the hoses go back to soft tomorrow morning after sitting over night however after just check after only four hours after last using it the coolant is sitting where is should be and hoses are nice and soft indicating there is no excess pressure pretty much confirming my theory.

Now I just need to find somewhere that will be able to replace the reducers to a single one which should neaten up the engine bay a good deal aswell, hopefully they won’t charge the earth either.

I would do it myself but it means bending and fitting new copper pipes which I don’t feel like I would be good at not to mention a remap would be needed for the lpg ecu anyway so they would have more experience with that.
 
Evening all, what's happened ere.? LZ has gone all trendy..!!?? Turned me back for 5 minutes.. Haven't taken the Orville out of the garage for nearly 6 months (other s##t to do) and with a bit of sunshine this weekend, thought it was time to air it out and see what worked still. All good apart from still "jumping door lock" issue and two window switches U/S. Stripped and cleaned switch contacts.. all good. The door lock has beaten me still. So guess I'd better tax it I suppose, for Mr Sunak.
Time for a look round the site I think...
 
Khemitude said:
So I just noticed when looking at @Andy Burrell engine bay pics his throttle cable and cruise control cable are the opposite to mine as in on mine the throttle cable is onto the throttle body running closest to the radiator and the cruise control is closest to the bulkhead if you catch my meaning, and Andy’s throttle cable is closest the to the bulkhead and cruise control closest to the radiator.

What is the correct way? Even though I in theory adjusted properly maybe this might account for that little bit of swimming I get on cruise control.
Click to expand...
That's how it was when I got it and was very careful not to swap the cables over. Mine had the classic perish vacuum pipe but once replaced it all works perfectly.

Did some polishing today ready for the new owners later in the week.
 
Bagshot said:
Evening all, what's happened ere.? LZ has gone all trendy..!!?? Turned me back for 5 minutes.. Haven't taken the Orville out of the garage for nearly 6 months (other s##t to do) and with a bit of sunshine this weekend, thought it was time to air it out and see what worked still. All good apart from still "jumping door lock" issue and two window switches U/S. Stripped and cleaned switch contacts.. all good. The door lock has beaten me still. So guess I'd better tax it I suppose, for Mr Sunak.
Time for a look round the site I think...
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Door lock micro switches need replacing.
 
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First problem, pressure switch not maintaing it position. Found a load of crap caked inside of it.
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pull them both out and swapped the switch. the pump had been blowing out water and I found the medium full of water! But it draws air from the cabin... Also this type model has an exhaust vavle which isn't used in my system hence the valve not clearing moisture.
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a bit of dust but not bad for a 13 year old pump.
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then I killed it.... 🤬

So, 290€ for a replacement and I'll remove the medium and reinstall it... 😎
 

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Khemitude said:
So I just noticed when looking at @Andy Burrell engine bay pics his throttle cable and cruise control cable are the opposite to mine as in on mine the throttle cable is onto the throttle body running closest to the radiator and the cruise control is closest to the bulkhead if you catch my meaning, and Andy’s throttle cable is closest the to the bulkhead and cruise control closest to the radiator.

What is the correct way? Even though I in theory adjusted properly maybe this might account for that little bit of swimming I get on cruise control.
Click to expand...
Couldn't say for Thor, but GEMS throttle is the front and cruise is nearer the bulkhead.
 
Mark Piercy said:
View attachment 287487
First problem, pressure switch not maintaing it position. Found a load of crap caked inside of it.
View attachment 287488pull them both out and swapped the switch. the pump had been blowing out water and I found the medium full of water! But it draws air from the cabin... Also this type model has an exhaust vavle which isn't used in my system hence the valve not clearing moisture. View attachment 287484View attachment 287485a bit of dust but not bad for a 13 year old pump. View attachment 287486then I killed it.... 🤬

So, 290€ for a replacement and I'll remove the medium and reinstall it... 😎
Click to expand...

Almost as if it has been swimming.
 
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