kermit_rr said:
Think my battery is goosed. Unlocked, opened up, voltage was 12.0v :( that's without turning ignition on.
That's after a couple of full charges off a charger and a few hours driving
Click to expand...
Recovered from the unlocking ordeal to 12.4 after sitting for 30 mins. Still not great
 
brianp38dse said:
A new one would not go a miss as that is low to start with i bet it drops even lower when ignition is turned :(
Click to expand...
It will probably be ok until winter, but i hate the gamble of.. will it start.. after you've had the doors open and closed through the day, something i do quite a bit of, especially at track days
 
kermit_rr said:
It will probably be ok until winter, but i hate the gamble of.. will it start.. after you've had the doors open and closed through the day, something i do quite a bit of, especially at track days
Click to expand...

Data will tell you the battery is screwed, normally anything 12.4v and under is dead.
 
kermit_rr said:
And i would agree. 12.4 is the point at which sulphation occurs and it's a downward spiral from there
Click to expand...
It's now saying 12.46v. i understand it doesn't completely go to sleep until after its locked, but i don't know what the draw is immediately after an unlock and door opened.
It would be interesting to see what voltage others read at that point
 
I thought the subwoofer wasn't working. It is. It must really be crap! But i probably have the baseline/rubbish system. Only had treble/bass/sub adjustment, that's it.
I can see the foam support is fully intact and the cone moves significantly, so it's working.
it's only a full range signal, no separate channels for hi/low etc!! Even my ancient alpine head unit has that!!
Turn the bass down to a reasonable level and you get no signal to the subwoofer
 
kermit_rr said:
It's now saying 12.46v. i understand it doesn't completely go to sleep until after its locked, but i don't know what the draw is immediately after an unlock and door opened.
It would be interesting to see what voltage others read at that point
Click to expand...
Long set of leads to the battery so you can monitor it easily with everything on / off / locked / etc? Just remember to disconnect them before you actually drive it....
 
kermit_rr said:
got an insurance renewal request invite.. £649.60 :eek::eek::eek:
Click to expand...
Think it has gone up, mine due in June or July and been looking at quotes and there anything from £750-1500 paid about £770 last year with NFU, on a 54 plate l322 td6, over 10 years no claims.
 
brianp38dse said:
I have been driving mine round the last two days as the work van decided to start cutting out as if the key had been turned of and on so cant trust it especially on a motorway:mad:
Click to expand...
Rangies seem to make good work vehicles, mines my daily family car and work car, get few looks as it’s not the norm and comments from lads in wholesales “bet all your profit goes on fuel” etc.
 
brianp38dse said:
Its ok but i cant get 3m lenghts of pipe and all my tools in it :(
Click to expand...
Really? Know a p38 is smaller but would have thought 3m from boot lid to front footwell or dash would have got it. I get 3m conduit from rear upper corner down to front passenger footwell.
Tools can take up a lot, my day to day is tester, small bag for every job tools, snips, drivers, volt tester etc then smaller tool
Box for common but not needed tools like lump hammer, 12inch level etc then drill and impact box and screw and fixings box then two more 18” cubed boxes for everyday parts, cable, sockets etc. if I’m doing a rewire I can easily fill car but all unloaded on day 1 and loaded back up when completing job so not too bad.
Problem round my way is vans are a major break in target, and no matter what locks are on it they just rip doors off, using a car doesn’t stand out the same.
 
rich28uk said:
Really? Know a p38 is smaller but would have thought 3m from boot lid to front footwell or dash would have got it. I get 3m conduit from rear upper corner down to front passenger footwell.
Tools can take up a lot, my day to day is tester, small bag for every job tools, snips, drivers, volt tester etc then smaller tool
Box for common but not needed tools like lump hammer, 12inch level etc then drill and impact box and screw and fixings box then two more 18” cubed boxes for everyday parts, cable, sockets etc. if I’m doing a rewire I can easily fill car but all unloaded on day 1 and loaded back up when completing job so not too bad.
Problem round my way is vans are a major break in target, and no matter what locks are on it they just rip doors off, using a car doesn’t stand out the same.
Click to expand...

i just cant fit the contents of a lwb renault master in no matter now i try :(
 
I would have thought you could get 3m in the rangie, I used to get 2.8m in the freelander and the rangie is much bigger inside.
 
Guess what broke today on the rainiest day of the week and 35 miles from home :eek:
Thank god for Halfrauds and Rainx

1683731690024.png
 
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