There a silicon kit for the M51 but the money is silly and a bloody con.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Put the new rad hoses on and refilled he coolant and all looks good, so a lucky escape there then
More mud bashing today! Got stuck in clay... Twice.. fat cow
.Cleaned the air filter, replaced the map sensor pipe, cleaned the air flow sensor and readjusted the turbo actuator link bar!! The nut was loose
. All good and muddy again
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Not today but just got round to uploading some photos.
Fitted new heavy wireing/relays/fuses to the lighting system on my classic.
Started by fitting a couple of points for common earths and power direct from the battery next to the air-filter.
This is the horrible mess I was making while making up and testing the system. The relays on top of the wash bottle are dedicated to the front spots fitted by the PO and never connected, managed to find a switch to go into the switch panel by the steering column and used a separate fused wire from the main beam trigger feed to operate the spot relays, don't know if that was a bit over the top but I don't think an extra fuse is a problem so fitted one.
Different view of the same
Thats better, all made up with the proper latching crimps into the relay holders.
I wasn't happy with the possibility of the air filter strap contacting the battery positive terminal so insulated it with tape over a length of trunking. I can't fit a proper terminal cap on the battery positive due to other existing wiring connectors so this ended up as second best.
Fuses, 2 to new headlight looms, 1 for the spots, and a spare way for I don't know what.
A bit tight but everything just about accessable.
While I was in the mood I spliced/soldered a feed to the in-headlight side light never connected by the PO.
And everything works as it should, (much to my surprise, being a total numpty when it comes to leccy bits).
Took some friends out last night and the comment was your lights are good for an old-un, and it really has made a huge difference, don't really need the spots but as they were there just seemed logical to connect them. Being the original lights dip beam cut-off is good, even 4 up had no problems for on-coming traffic.
Fitted new heavy wireing/relays/fuses to the lighting system on my classic.
Started by fitting a couple of points for common earths and power direct from the battery next to the air-filter.
This is the horrible mess I was making while making up and testing the system. The relays on top of the wash bottle are dedicated to the front spots fitted by the PO and never connected, managed to find a switch to go into the switch panel by the steering column and used a separate fused wire from the main beam trigger feed to operate the spot relays, don't know if that was a bit over the top but I don't think an extra fuse is a problem so fitted one.
Different view of the same
Thats better, all made up with the proper latching crimps into the relay holders.
I wasn't happy with the possibility of the air filter strap contacting the battery positive terminal so insulated it with tape over a length of trunking. I can't fit a proper terminal cap on the battery positive due to other existing wiring connectors so this ended up as second best.
Fuses, 2 to new headlight looms, 1 for the spots, and a spare way for I don't know what.
A bit tight but everything just about accessable.
And everything works as it should, (much to my surprise, being a total numpty when it comes to leccy bits).
Took some friends out last night and the comment was your lights are good for an old-un, and it really has made a huge difference, don't really need the spots but as they were there just seemed logical to connect them. Being the original lights dip beam cut-off is good, even 4 up had no problems for on-coming traffic.
View attachment 144818 View attachment 144819
More mud bashing today! Got stuck in clay... Twice.. fat cow
Cleaned the air filter, replaced the map sensor pipe, cleaned the air flow sensor and readjusted the turbo actuator link bar!! The nut was loose
Why did you clean the MAF sensor was the EGR playing up?
Good question, egr is disconnected.
But.... As my filter is a sponge type and does have a light film of oil, I make it a habit to check and clean the MAF when I do the filter also. Squeaky clean keeps it keen!!
I had an intermittent no boost problem. No real power on start up and then after 2minutes driving it would jump into life?? Hence the reason I had checked the turbo actuator wasn't jammed. I then found the nut on the actuator lever had come loose, so that was reset. How's things wammers?
Good question, egr is disconnected.
But.... As my filter is a sponge type and does have a light film of oil, I make it a habit to check and clean the MAF when I do the filter also. Squeaky clean keeps it keen!!
I had an intermittent no boost problem. No real power on start up and then after 2minutes driving it would jump into life?? Hence the reason I had checked the turbo actuator wasn't jammed. I then found the nut on the actuator lever had come loose, so that was reset. How's things wammers?
Okish at the moment.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Fitted a new a/c belt and tensioner to the red one. Changed a hose clamp on the turbo.Replaced a reversing sensor on the X type, I'm knackered now.
Fitted a new a/c belt and tensioner to the red one. Changed a hose clamp on the turbo.Replaced a reversing sensor on the X type, I'm knackered now.
You and me both. Hell of a week.
Fitted a strip of LEDs in the boot to supplement the existing bulb. Wires were a bit short and only crimped the connections as I cannot find my soldering iron but it seems to work OK. Looks a bit like the emergency cabin lights on a passenger plane. :-/
gold rover
Well-Known Member
Nothing yet but at silly o'clock will be packing dog and stuff in her. Then filling the tank,,doing tyre pressure, etc and heading south to englandshire. Where I will hand the little one over to her forever family, then either head to Londinium or back home. Vrooom vrooom
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Have a safe journey.
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Changed the steering lock/ignition switch as the old one started giving some troubles, every now and then the key refused to turn until it had been belted and waggled about a bit. Might as well fix it now at home and under cover as get stuck somewhere.
Thought for some time about the possibility of taking the cylinder out and trying to refurb so I could keep the same key, but looked a bit difficult.
Eventually bought a britpart one off paddocks as I didn't want to spend the £150 on a genuine one. Think I better keep the old one and keys in the tool kit just in case.
I don't know why, but as I was clearing things away I tried the new ignition key in the drivers door lock and it turned as sweet as a nut!! So that means I don't have to have yet another key on the bunch. Result. Had a good look at the old and new keys and there really isn't that much difference, but it did get me thinking of security. I think I might have a go at putting in a switch in-line with the fuel cut off solenoid.
Thought for some time about the possibility of taking the cylinder out and trying to refurb so I could keep the same key, but looked a bit difficult.
Eventually bought a britpart one off paddocks as I didn't want to spend the £150 on a genuine one. Think I better keep the old one and keys in the tool kit just in case.
I don't know why, but as I was clearing things away I tried the new ignition key in the drivers door lock and it turned as sweet as a nut!! So that means I don't have to have yet another key on the bunch. Result. Had a good look at the old and new keys and there really isn't that much difference, but it did get me thinking of security. I think I might have a go at putting in a switch in-line with the fuel cut off solenoid.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Did the same myself with my VM, I also wired a switched feed from the brake light switch terminal that becomes live when the ignition is on,to a horn. I caught one car thief many years ago using that setup on a Ford Anglia. Showing my age now.
gold rover
Well-Known Member
Drove to englandshire and broke down on the way home Currently standing at side of M74 awaiting recovery. Whilst I wait and as phone is crap to search on. Can anyone point me in direction of power loss and fuel injection system fault message info? Please and thank you. @Saint.V8 @holidaychicken @tomcat59alan @myfirstl322 or anyone else
Currently standing at side of M74 awaiting recovery. Whilst I wait and as phone is crap to search on. Can anyone point me in direction of power loss and fuel injection system fault message info? Please and thank you. @Saint.V8 @holidaychicken @tomcat59alan @myfirstl322 or anyone else
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
@gold rover is there any more info you can give us as to what happened and what it was doing, as there seams to be lots of causes.
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myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
No experience of Doozle,
I believe injector wiring harness/connectors degrade.
Aux fuel pumps can fail causing limp mode/reduced power.
Fuel filter history?
Sorry, not much help I know.
You've got breakdown cover I presume?
I believe injector wiring harness/connectors degrade.
Aux fuel pumps can fail causing limp mode/reduced power.
Fuel filter history?
Sorry, not much help I know.
You've got breakdown cover I presume?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I thought Goldie was a petrol, we know she has breakdown cover as she's on first name terms with them. If its a weasel then go for the obvious as posted filter pumps. Good luck
