Diesel or petrol? Diesel sounds like turbo pipe has popped off or intercooler is blocked.
Diesel or petrol? Diesel sounds like turbo pipe has popped off or intercooler is blocked.
Or just needs a good long journey and an Italian tune-up.
Which one was it?
Was it the 1 you were talking about in another thread?
Got all your money back, that’s good
J
Filling up in petrol station today guy walks up and praises me for having a really great P38, best he's seen in a long time. Boy did my head swell , nice to be appreciated. Watched to see what he drove off in, Nissan X-trail, is there any comparison?
Moron
Well-Known Member
Yes it was the 160,000 mile 3.6Which one was it?
Was it the 1 you were talking about in another thread?
Got all your money back, that’s good
J
A young guy once pulled up in a sport at some lights and waved to wind down window.
Asked if it was for sale, I had to say sorry mate not for sale, do you really know what it is?
He said yes.
Lights turned green he said age before beauty.
Thank you.
No he couldn’t keep up
Good ones are worth good money
J
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
bet The fuel gauge goes down as quick as the speedo goes up
bet The fuel gauge goes down as quick as the speedo goes up
Didn’t buy it to watch the fuel gauge
J
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
No I know, yours is always near the ‘E’ for enthusiastic
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Today - Took the stuff to recycling centre - broke the handle off the spare wheel access hatch.
Beginning to think I may have some pent up anger within me...
Have to talk to my therapist - once he sorts his EAS out lol
Engine is pulling quicker though and cleaned up as much oil under bonnet as I could. Oil cap is nearly yellow again I scrubbed it so much
Beginning to think I may have some pent up anger within me...
Have to talk to my therapist - once he sorts his EAS out lol
Engine is pulling quicker though and cleaned up as much oil under bonnet as I could. Oil cap is nearly yellow again I scrubbed it so much
That's why I don't have one then!! Has @DanClarke been at your gearbox??
He doesn't need help. He has hands like bunches of bananas. Watching him attempt the delicate task of teasing the hub nut off with a scaffold pole is like watching those IVF scientists poke an egg cell with the tip of a needle. Anything smaller and it is Destination F@cked.
And I thought I was bad!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
No comparison, in my experience the P38 is much more reliable than an Xtrail.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
R380 is most HD I’ve had, I just need more practice screwing lolThat's why I don't have one then!! Has @DanClarke been at your gearbox??
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
Trying to get my p38 back on be road after a long line of issues and not enough time to sort them.
Still got a few bits to do. But new suspension is on. Only tested it across the fields but seemed to ride fine over the bumps and didn’t feel wallowy either.
Sadly new leak found and low brake fluid warning. Jobs for tomorrow then!
At least the TCS still seemed to work fine.
Still got a few bits to do. But new suspension is on. Only tested it across the fields but seemed to ride fine over the bumps and didn’t feel wallowy either.
Sadly new leak found and low brake fluid warning. Jobs for tomorrow then!
At least the TCS still seemed to work fine.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
Thanks
Sadly one small thing after another. Failed water pump. Took ages to sort, think someone at the factory must have used a 10 foot long bar to install it. Even snapped a tab off the engine block undoing it!
Then the viscous fan. Got that sorted then started having issues with the EAS.
I’ve always loved the EAS and have been an advocate to keeping it. It started sinking at the rear when parked. Then on the way home there was a large explosive decompression. Once parked it sank to the bump stops and wouldn’t raise again. On the slightly bigger tyres this is a real problem and makes the vehicle unable to be driven really.
Bug tracked loads of thinks, turned out to be the air line from the valve block to the air tank. Replaced this and for some reason the EAS decided to sit 4 inches higher on the passenger side to the drivers side in all height modes. Trying fixing with the Nanocom, even got a cable and some software from Datatek, but I couldn’t seem to solve it. While trying to bug track this it then blew the new air line to the tank, not sure where, but back to square one.
While doing this work I noticed it really needed 4 new air springs. And I think it may need new height sensors, although I don’t know the reason for it leaning, but starting to suspect it is these. And that still wouldn’t solve why it has blown two air lines to the tank.
So reluctantly I’ve opted for a coil conversion kit, at least this way I can use it. Plus I no longer have the issue of it going down to the bump stops.
Also the exhaust blew out. At first I thought it was the cause of the EAS issue, but it wasn’t. Top of the centre box rotted out completely. Bought a replacement section, but on removing the centre box it became clear the rear section pipe work would not survive being removed. So had to order a new rear section too.
Have now fitted a Bearmach + 30mm coil conversion kit. What a bitch to fit though!!! Has taken ages and been a real battle the entire way.
Got it fitted now. But the rear passenger window stopped working today. Need to get that sorted, hoping it is just a gummed up switch or something. While test driving across the field today I got a low brake fluid warning on the dash. I had just been using TCS on the off road section. But I will need to check the brakes tomorrow, suspect new pads and maybe discs are now required before the MoT.
And there seems to be something leaking, looks like it is the rear diff pinion seal, but it seems to have chucked out a lot of oil in a short amount of use. So will need to look further.
Also had an air lock after fitting the new water pump that took quite a bit to clear. And a minor misfire, although that seems to have cleared up now. Although I do have new coil packs, leads and plugs ready to fit.
Once MoT’d I can then get in with the other issues. I think the micro switches on the drivers door lock don’t work. As I can’t enter the EKA. Have been using my Nanocom so I know the code is correct.
Oh and I can’t get the keys to sync. Which might be related to EKA issue I think. After fixing the water pump the battery totally crapped out (was only just over 18 months old). Think it dropped a cell and shorted internally. Since then neither keyfob has worked :-(
