That has certainly been disturbed. STC4608
New one. I went genuine after hearing Rick had been through 3 in 10 years or whatever it was.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
...rampant caveman... 
Done it few times no probs, no fractures, broke with little force. Was so proud I got belt changed without removing viscous
Atleast il get to check pulley again, cleaned it up and jammed lithium grease in it but sure it's still squeaking
Hopefully will last with just the one arm for now.
Done it few times no probs, no fractures, broke with little force. Was so proud I got belt changed without removing viscous
Atleast il get to check pulley again, cleaned it up and jammed lithium grease in it but sure it's still squeaking
Hopefully will last with just the one arm for now.
Any idea what gigantic Allen key was needed @Dopey ?
Cannot remember what I used now but it was something surprising like a house radiator drain key or maybe a sump plug drain key. Something hexagonal I had lying around.
About 17mm, weld a 10mm bolt to a bit of bar it worked for me (think it was that size its been a while since had to do it)...rampant caveman...
Done it few times no probs, no fractures, broke with little force. Was so proud I got belt changed without removing viscous
Atleast il get to check pulley again, cleaned it up and jammed lithium grease in it but sure it's still squeaking
Hopefully will last with just the one arm for now.
Any idea what gigantic Allen key was needed @Dopey ?
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
P38's are full of suprises
I don't have a welder so 17mm bolt with grips will be last resort.
Rave is vague from what I can find, 'remove fulcrum cap' is about as helpful as it gets.
OEM tensioner/pulley are decently priced, not that I need them, the arm itself is silly money varying a lot between suppliers £40-£75. Thats just the arm, no new cap/bolts or nuts
You may get away with it if you lock 2 nuts on the bolt. Probably better than grips.
J
Edit or use it as an excuse to buy more toys(welder) I do. probably cheaper to by a big Allen key but that’s no fun.
I think that's what I did, now I think about it. It isn't on very tight, or shouldn't be.
With all due respect warmers. I am not sure what you are saying here.
Please elaborate who/what it’s wrong.
Thanks.
J
Been there as well !
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Fact he advised me put coppaslip on threads suggests it tends to jam too hard for the methods talked about. If it tight enough to screw it out of the case IM likely wrong about it just being a cap. I will cut the ba**rd off if I have to but il try the other methods first. Hopefully as Wammers confirms it is a 17mm I can get a decent single at £1 shop. I'm not buying a set for just this job although you are right I do need to invest in some tidy toys Sure I got something for the old-fashioned radiators that will fit - no doubt I will find it just after I cut it off
Sure I got something for the old-fashioned radiators that will fit - no doubt I will find it just after I cut it off Yes its 17mm that fits the cap that has to be unscrewed to remove the arm from the pivot which is screwed into the block, I have had one that just wouldnt let go, in the end had cut the remains of the arm off so I could unscrew the lot from the block then get it in the vise to deal with it. And best of luck buying a 17mm allen key for a pound.Fact he advised me put coppaslip on threads suggests it tends to jam too hard for the methods talked about. If it tight enough to screw it out of the case IM likely wrong about it just being a cap. I will cut the ba**rd off if I have to but il try the other methods first. Hopefully as Wammers confirms it is a 17mm I can get a decent single at £1 shop. I'm not buying a set for just this job although you are right I do need to invest in some tidy toys
Good luck with a good 17 mm Allen key for a pound.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M17-x-55...m=143091515745&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
