frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Thought it was just me.
Thought it was ju
Thought it w
Thought it was ju
Thought it w
Bagshot
Well-Known Member
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Expensive way of tracing faults.
If the compressor is good, the air must be going somewhere. Leaks in the pipes from exhaust blows are not uncommon.
After lots of research on engine numbers. I have finally got the engine number of the SBC, now I have to jump through whatever hoops DVLA want to get it on the V5. Overfinch never changed engine numbers on ours and it is still with the original 4.6engine number although the car never clocked a mile with it ( naughty OF)
Sounds so easy written like that.
The SBC has its number on a flat bit of casting, top of block by the left hand head (facing engine) simple!!! (Not).
There is a big bracket fitted to the head that covers the number,( insert swear words here) spanner’s out.
There is a number stamped on the Ali bracket but what’s that for?
So off I go on a knuckle skinning many swear words type of job.
Off with Alternator,it’s bracket and now the Ali bracket. Low and behold a number. Then a string of words that we are all familiar with. In polite English, why did they stamp it there and not do the paperwork? (You can of course make your own translations for the words used)
But at least I have photographic evidence now in case we decide to register it here.
For info it looks like they used D2 alternator bracket,tensioner and alternator?
While it was off I measured the belt, no luck it’s not the same as my p38spare, ( hunt for later)
Also took some pics of the bearings in tensioner and guide pulley so will get some of them as am sure I will need at some point.
Through research we now know the number starts with a ZZ which it is a crate engine (unless somebody know diff),So it was new from fitting. (Less than 70k just run in)
So all back together and running (poo) now have an EAS fault (disconnected battery during work) hope it goes away after a couple of cycles of starting and running.
Happy Saturday in the garage
Sounds so easy written like that.
The SBC has its number on a flat bit of casting, top of block by the left hand head (facing engine) simple!!! (Not).
There is a big bracket fitted to the head that covers the number,( insert swear words here) spanner’s out.
There is a number stamped on the Ali bracket but what’s that for?
So off I go on a knuckle skinning many swear words type of job.
Off with Alternator,it’s bracket and now the Ali bracket. Low and behold a number. Then a string of words that we are all familiar with. In polite English, why did they stamp it there and not do the paperwork? (You can of course make your own translations for the words used)
But at least I have photographic evidence now in case we decide to register it here.
For info it looks like they used D2 alternator bracket,tensioner and alternator?
While it was off I measured the belt, no luck it’s not the same as my p38spare, ( hunt for later)
Also took some pics of the bearings in tensioner and guide pulley so will get some of them as am sure I will need at some point.
Through research we now know the number starts with a ZZ which it is a crate engine (unless somebody know diff),So it was new from fitting. (Less than 70k just run in)
So all back together and running (poo) now have an EAS fault (disconnected battery during work) hope it goes away after a couple of cycles of starting and running.
Happy Saturday in the garage
I have a compressor that makes a lovely noise - unfortunately it doesn't put out any air. The brushes have worn a groove so deep in into the copper bits (commutator?) that it has no torque and jams. The motor spins but it won't push the piston
Bagshot
Well-Known Member
FUBAR..
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
If the motor is spinning but not pushing the piston it's not the motor, it's the grub screw loose in the crank.
If a dc motor commutator is worn it will have little effect on the torque until such time its worn through so much that it can't carry enough current. Then the motor will stall and fry itself.
If a dc motor commutator is worn it will have little effect on the torque until such time its worn through so much that it can't carry enough current. Then the motor will stall and fry itself.
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
If the motor is spinning but not pushing the piston it's not the motor, it's the grub screw loose in the crank.
If a dc motor commutator is worn it will have little effect on the torque until such time its worn through so much that it can't carry enough current. Then the motor will stall and fry itself
If a dc motor commutator is worn it will have little effect on the torque until such time its worn through so much that it can't carry enough current. Then the motor will stall and fry itself
I have a compressor that makes a lovely noise - unfortunately it doesn't put out any air. The brushes have worn a groove so deep in into the copper bits (commutator?) that it has no torque and jams. The motor spins but it won't push the piston
I have a compressor that makes a lovely noise - unfortunately it doesn't put out any air. The brushes have worn a groove so deep in into the copper bits (commutator?) that it has no torque and jams. The motor spins but it won't push the piston
Is it just me or are other people's messages stuck spinning for ages then when you finally see them you have doubled up? A visual echo hahaha
Ah ok, well I can't put the brushes back in now - what a crap, nasty design. You need to have magic fingers made of spaghetti. Does anyone have any tricks to actually put them back in and place the pcb back properly, which won't fit because you have to drill / cut out the rivets....
Ah ok, well I can't put the brushes back in now - what a crap, nasty design. You need to have magic fingers made of spaghetti. Does anyone have any tricks to actually put them back in and place the pcb back properly, which won't fit because you have to drill / cut out the rivets....
MICK1941
Member
Removed the steering wheel of a 2003 L322 and realigned the steering wheel as someone has had it off in the past and replaced the rotary coupling underneath for the horn/ radio/ etc etc controls. Pretty simple task makes driving it so much easier . Still got my suspension problems but upgrading my diagnostis shod be here wednesday!!! With a bit of luck.
Just purchased 2 inner tie rods and track rods, be nexts weeks task.
Just purchased 2 inner tie rods and track rods, be nexts weeks task.
The arm is held on by a grub screw accessible through the allen screw in the housing on the side.
Or talk to @kurtjohnson10 as he has one in the For Sale section.
The arm is held on by a grub screw accessible through the allen screw in the housing on the side.
Or talk to @kurtjohnson10 as he has one in the For Sale section.
The arm is held on by a grub screw accessible through the allen screw in the housing on the side.
Or talk to @kurtjohnson10 as he has one in the For Sale section.
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
Hi
I do have one availible if required , though i cannot seem to open my private messages for some reason. It just keeps coming up server error
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
Hi
I do have one availible if required , though i cannot seem to open my private messages for some reason. It just keeps coming up server error
