Henry_b said:
My bumper is like that and the outrigger that comes off the chassis has also snapped in half ;)

A good 2nd hand one looks to be in order then?
Click to expand...
Have to say all the metal attached to the chassis, after cleaning, was strangely solid (have I got a good one..?) Are these side brackets available separately they seem easy to get off. The rest seems ok..
 
Bagshot said:
Have to say all the metal attached to the chassis, after cleaning, was strangely solid (have I got a good one..?) Are these side brackets available separately they seem easy to get off. The rest seems ok..
Click to expand...
P6dzxKSl.jpg
lol ;)

Got my work cut out for me..
 
Grrrrrr said:
With my refurbed one from Ashcrofts I can turn a lifted front wheel (in neutral) with 70nm set on the torque wrench on the hub-nut. That's easing it round slowly and carefully so it doesn't click. My old one took over 140nm to turn. I've got the manual box if that makes any difference.
Click to expand...

Mine still turns, luckily, but i think it needs changing :( Did the transfer neutral and front wheel off the ground test. It turns, but feels stiff-ish.
 
tanis8472 said:
Mine still turns, luckily, but i think it needs changing :( Did the transfer neutral and front wheel off the ground test. It turns, but feels stiff-ish.
Click to expand...

It will. And the faster you turn the harder it will get. You're looking for slow steady pressure. If your torque wrench needs to be set to 140nm or above to stop it clicking then it probably is on its way out. I'm not sure what the upper limit should be but mine still turned at 140nm albeit with a lot more force than it used to. Also, as i went down steep hills I could feel the morse-chain bouncing through the transmission. Apparently Land Rover say to replace it every 100k miles so by 150k miles it really needs replacing, especially if like mine the vehicle does some work for a living.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Ungrateful Shïtbag.....replaced the plugs.
Result-Two dead glow plugs AND a dead intank fuel pump:mad:...
Now I've got to tow the thing that tows everything else!!!:(
Click to expand...
If you drop the tank to do the pump, there is a short piece of hose connecting the filler pipe to the tank, it can be difficult to shift and on mine it was badly perished. I couldn't find and pipe that was compatible with diesel so had to fork out for the real thing. Best price I could find was from www.landers-shop.fr
If you are going to tow it, don't forget fuse 11 for transfer neutral.
 
Datatek said:
If you drop the tank to do the pump, there is a short piece of hose connecting the filler pipe to the tank, it can be difficult to shift and on mine it was badly perished. I couldn't find and pipe that was compatible with diesel so had to fork out for the real thing. Best price I could find was from www.landers-shop.fr
If you are going to tow it, don't forget fuse 11 for transfer neutral.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your help, luckily it broke down at home... Somewhere down there on the drive!!! But I do need to remember the fuse trick just incase...
Landers aren't bad for prices really, I've had the tank out before due to a corroded return pipe... I wish I'd just replaced the bugger then... But because it was only a small leak and the pump ran well, I put it all back in again.... Punching my own face is now becoming an annoying habit......I do remember the filler neck connection pipe looking a bit naff at the time.:(
Stuff just gets a bit much sometimes..:oops:
 
Mark Piercy said:
Thank you for your help, luckily it broke down at home... Somewhere down there on the drive!!! But I do need to remember the fuse trick just incase...
Landers aren't bad for prices really, I've had the tank out before due to a corroded return pipe... I wish I'd just replaced the bugger then... But because it was only a small leak and the pump ran well, I put it all back in again.... Punching my own face is now becoming an annoying habit......I do remember the filler neck connection pipe looking a bit naff at the time.:(
Stuff just gets a bit much sometimes..:oops:
Click to expand...

Just cut the filler-neck pipe and replace it on reassembly. Makes it much easier. Hardest part is getting all the old fuel out.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Thank you for your help, luckily it broke down at home... Somewhere down there on the drive!!! But I do need to remember the fuse trick just incase...
Landers aren't bad for prices really, I've had the tank out before due to a corroded return pipe... I wish I'd just replaced the bugger then... But because it was only a small leak and the pump ran well, I put it all back in again.... Punching my own face is now becoming an annoying habit......I do remember the filler neck connection pipe looking a bit naff at the time.:(
Stuff just gets a bit much sometimes..:oops:
Click to expand...

Just cut the filler-neck pipe and replace it on reassembly. Makes it much easier. Hardest part is getting all the old fuel out.
 
Fixed the rattle underneath. When I swapped out the buggered rear Woodhead (woodhouse?) shocks for the free replacement Britparts, torqued it all up went for a drive - no rattling. Wierd.
Anyway I do now detect a high pitch squeaking that stops when I put my foot on the brake pedal. All pads looked good when I checked though. As Mark Piercy says - it does get a bit much sometimes!

Not sure how long I'll keep the Britparts in, I went for OEM and got the Woodheads. I'll see how they feel
 
Fixed the rattle underneath. When I swapped out the buggered rear Woodhead (woodhouse?) shocks for the free replacement Britparts, torqued it all up went for a drive - no rattling. Wierd.
Anyway I do now detect a high pitch squeaking that stops when I put my foot on the brake pedal. All pads looked good when I checked though. As Mark Piercy says - it does get a bit much sometimes!

Not sure how long I'll keep the Britparts in, I went for OEM and got the Woodheads. I'll see how they feel
 
Grrrrrr said:
Just cut the filler-neck pipe and replace it on reassembly. Makes it much easier. Hardest part is getting all the old fuel out.
Click to expand...
Expensive game cutting that little bit of hose if it's in OK condition when a diesel proof replacement is going to set you back £35 to £50w with postage:eek:
 
Grrrrrr said:
Just cut the filler-neck pipe and replace it on reassembly. Makes it much easier. Hardest part is getting all the old fuel out.
Click to expand...
Expensive game cutting that little bit of hose if it's in OK condition when a diesel proof replacement is going to set you back £35 to £50 with postage:eek:
 
Datatek said:
Expensive game cutting that little bit of hose if it's in OK condition when a diesel proof replacement is going to set you back £35 to £50 with postage:eek:
Click to expand...


Didn't cost that much from Island. More like £15.

EDIT: just had a look on Island site. Looks like they don't sell it anymore!
 
Datatek said:
Expensive game cutting that little bit of hose if it's in OK condition when a diesel proof replacement is going to set you back £35 to £50 with postage:eek:
Click to expand...

Didn't cost that much from Island. More like £15.

EDIT: just had a look on Island site. Looks like they don't sell it anymore!
 
Mukiwa said:
Fixed the rattle underneath. When I swapped out the buggered rear Woodhead (woodhouse?) shocks for the free replacement Britparts, torqued it all up went for a drive - no rattling. Wierd.
Anyway I do now detect a high pitch squeaking that stops when I put my foot on the brake pedal. All pads looked good when I checked though. As Mark Piercy says - it does get a bit much sometimes!

Not sure how long I'll keep the Britparts in, I went for OEM and got the Woodheads. I'll see how they feel
Click to expand...

Woodhead = Boge?
 
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