A DMF is designed to reduce wear in the gear train at low revs in high gears.
A DMF is designed to reduce wear in the gear train at low revs in high gears.
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Removed the faulty self leveling unit on Buttercup, sounds easy when you write it like that. Jesus what a drama I made of that.
Tried to undo the lower ball joint connection, couldn't get a spanner in there.
Took out 3 of the bolts holding the upper bracket to the xmember, loosened the 4th, that was difficult enough, threads were very tight, fine thread, long way to take them off and could only get about a 1/4 turn each time as my sockets were too big to get in there and didn't want to over-stress my ratchet spanners.
Once that was done got the angle grinder out and cut the push rod off close to the lower mounting, good job I had a full face mask on as the disk shattered just as the cut was nearly through. Anyway big lever time and the whole lot is now on my scrap pile.
Refitted the bolts to the xmember just to keep it tidy, with luck I should be able to find a plastic bottle top or something to fit over the remains of the lower ball joint and make a tidy job of it.
Knackered after that, more faffing about than was really needed at my age.
New rear coils (handed) tomorrow and new gas shocks, should lift her back up to std height, measured to top of wheel arch before I started 31", new springs look miles too long but obviously they will compress when fitted.
Tried to undo the lower ball joint connection, couldn't get a spanner in there.
Took out 3 of the bolts holding the upper bracket to the xmember, loosened the 4th, that was difficult enough, threads were very tight, fine thread, long way to take them off and could only get about a 1/4 turn each time as my sockets were too big to get in there and didn't want to over-stress my ratchet spanners.
Once that was done got the angle grinder out and cut the push rod off close to the lower mounting, good job I had a full face mask on as the disk shattered just as the cut was nearly through. Anyway big lever time and the whole lot is now on my scrap pile.
Refitted the bolts to the xmember just to keep it tidy, with luck I should be able to find a plastic bottle top or something to fit over the remains of the lower ball joint and make a tidy job of it.
Knackered after that, more faffing about than was really needed at my age.
New rear coils (handed) tomorrow and new gas shocks, should lift her back up to std height, measured to top of wheel arch before I started 31", new springs look miles too long but obviously they will compress when fitted.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Chuck it away and use the aircon fans instead.Fitted a new Viscous Fan unit today ERR2266 as suggested in another thread. Perfect fit. Now doesnt sound like a jet taking off
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Invalid fault code sounds like no comms. The bags will not inflate as long as there is a fault code, can you clear it?
Why would i do that when ive just fitted a new viscous unit
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Funny the things you notice when you take the time to look hard enough.
Struggled yesterday to take the self leveling unit off Buttercup, this morning got underneath to start fitting a cap over the lower ball joint mount that I had trouble with, better light I suppose but right there I could now see a big hex on the ball joint mounting. Doh. Anyway, left it on as it made a perfect fit for a cap off an oil can. Almost looks like it was meant to be there.
While she was up on blocks I replaced the oil seal on the nose of the rear diff, very slight weep but thought I'd include it in this range of work.
Replaced the rear coils and shocks, while about it cleaned off and gave a good coat of paint to the mounting points, actually all very clean really, no corrosion anywhere.
Bit concerned now that the rear still seems to sit a bit low at 31 1/2 inch to top of wheel arch, thought it would lift it all a bit more than just 1/2 inch. Wanted another 1/2 inch really, (where have I heard that before) after the horse bolting etc I shall have to see if I can find out what height it should be.
Struggled yesterday to take the self leveling unit off Buttercup, this morning got underneath to start fitting a cap over the lower ball joint mount that I had trouble with, better light I suppose but right there I could now see a big hex on the ball joint mounting. Doh. Anyway, left it on as it made a perfect fit for a cap off an oil can. Almost looks like it was meant to be there.
While she was up on blocks I replaced the oil seal on the nose of the rear diff, very slight weep but thought I'd include it in this range of work.
Replaced the rear coils and shocks, while about it cleaned off and gave a good coat of paint to the mounting points, actually all very clean really, no corrosion anywhere.
Bit concerned now that the rear still seems to sit a bit low at 31 1/2 inch to top of wheel arch, thought it would lift it all a bit more than just 1/2 inch. Wanted another 1/2 inch really, (where have I heard that before
) after the horse bolting etc I shall have to see if I can find out what height it should be.
Mega peed off now though. I think my VCU has given up the ghost
With my refurbed one from Ashcrofts I can turn a lifted front wheel (in neutral) with 70nm set on the torque wrench on the hub-nut. That's easing it round slowly and carefully so it doesn't click. My old one took over 140nm to turn. I've got the manual box if that makes any difference.
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Changed the brake fluid in Buttercup this morning, easy enough with an "easybleed" kit.
I use a turkey baster - if you don't know what that is ask your Doris - to get as much old fluid out of the reservoir as I can before adding the new.
Brakes do now seem a bit better, but couldn't really give it the beans on the wet roads.
Hopefully she will now pass the CT (mot).
I use a turkey baster - if you don't know what that is ask your Doris - to get as much old fluid out of the reservoir as I can before adding the new.
Brakes do now seem a bit better, but couldn't really give it the beans on the wet roads.
Hopefully she will now pass the CT (mot).
The hole saw that comes with it won't stand a chance. A couple of tungsten carbide ones off the Bay are required. The torx bolts holding the bumper on can be a real PITA too.
Bagshot
Well-Known Member
Invested in a step drill bit for the holes and been soaking me nuts in WD for a few days... Fingers crossed.
Invalid fault code often shows up usually means nothing rather like vehicle has moved code.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Just done some valve and head work on an M62 V8 for my tutors 2002 L322.
Re seating brand new valves and stripping the block, he had the entire short block bead blasted and liners pressed in..
The shoodyness of the design is incredible, almost no material between each bore..
Oh and those fookin taperd collets for the valves are a nightmare, if ya 'ave less than steady hands/
B4 ^^^
Hmm where do these go again? ^^
These little bastids!!!!!! ^
Spring compressors ^^
seating the keepers with my hammer handle, just a tap mind you
Not really in order..
Lapping the valves.
Before
After.
After
During..
During!!
The tappets were full of ****e, check the little piston in the middle and make sure it is smooth during operation.
The actual tappet surface is in quite good condition.
Complete!!
The Engine naked
And it needs several spark plug holes re tapped sound familiar @Saint.V8 ?
I've also checked the valve seat seal.
Thet are petrol tight!!
Re seating brand new valves and stripping the block, he had the entire short block bead blasted and liners pressed in..
The shoodyness of the design is incredible, almost no material between each bore..
Oh and those fookin taperd collets for the valves are a nightmare, if ya 'ave less than steady hands/
B4 ^^^
Hmm where do these go again?
^^
These little bastids!!!!!! ^
Spring compressors ^^
seating the keepers with my hammer handle, just a tap mind you
Not really in order..
Lapping the valves.
Before
After.
After
During..
During!!
The tappets were full of ****e, check the little piston in the middle and make sure it is smooth during operation
.
The actual tappet surface is in quite good condition.
Complete!!
The Engine naked
And it needs several spark plug holes re tapped sound familiar @Saint.V8 ?
I've also checked the valve seat seal.
Thet are petrol tight!!
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Bagshot
Well-Known Member
Have to be impressed how well the body and chassis was when the bumper came off. 21 years on and it just needs a clean and seal..
However.. bumper metal work..not so good.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
My bumper is like that and the outrigger that comes off the chassis has also snapped in half
A good 2nd hand one looks to be in order then?
