Amazon arrived earlier with my dehumidifier. Put it in the car & set it to 40% (minimum option). Heater also on & blowing toward the carpet & underlay, which I propped up to allow the heat to go underneath. After an hour it showed 35% & switched off !!

Initially the windows were steaming up loads, so I opened them all about an inch. Interior seems dryer already, but I suspect most of it is going out the windows. Nothing in the dehumidifier tank yet.

In the meantime, I dismantled the heater box and cleaned & freed up the distribution flaps. Tested them with 9V battery and they move ok now :)
 

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Amazon arrived earlier with my dehumidifier. Put it in the car & set it to 40% (minimum option). Heater also on & blowing toward the carpet & underlay. After an hour it showed 35% & switched off !!

Initially the windows were steaming up loads, so I opened them all about an inch. Interior seems dryer already, but I suspect most of it is going out the windows. Nothing in the dehumidifier tank yet.
No "Constant" setting? All mine have that.
 
Nothing in the manual about constant setting. It's only a £99 job, so might return to amazon and find one that does.
 
Nothing in the manual about constant setting. It's only a £99 job, so might return to amazon and find one that does.
About what I paid for mine. Not a lot of good with no constant setting as it will only run when the weather and temperature combine to raise the air born humidity, OK in warm weather NBG in cold when the air hold less moisture. I have one in my electronics workshop that runs all the time.
 
The info says it has auto-defrost, but will see. Thought about using the heater to get the damp from the floor into the air, and then dehumidifier to remove it. No idea if that will work or not, but we will see ?
I did that in the Ka. Fan heater on half temp for the wet footwell, getting the cabin warm enough and the moist air circulating for the dehumidifier to do it's thing. Very brisk process then.
 
Well, if you have to do 600 miles in a day then 400 the next I can confirm that a 3.6tdv8 l322 is one of the better vehicles to do it in.
What I have learnt though is that the fuel economy properly falls off a cliff above 90mph.
On the morning stint through Holland (Dutch plod is not good to argue with so I stick to the daft 100kmh limit by and large) I got 31mpg. Filled up then decided to give it large to make up some time as we were delayed getting off the boat.
We'll, good news is that 130mph is easy, bad news is you can actually see the guage moving at that speed.
Did about an hour at 90-100 mph then dropped back to 80. Checked mpg when I topped off in Poland 24mpg for that stint.
Tomorrow will be mostly spent with cruise set to 80mph and we will see what that gives.
 
Well, if you have to do 600 miles in a day then 400 the next I can confirm that a 3.6tdv8 l322 is one of the better vehicles to do it in.
What I have learnt though is that the fuel economy properly falls off a cliff above 90mph.
On the morning stint through Holland (Dutch plod is not good to argue with so I stick to the daft 100kmh limit by and large) I got 31mpg. Filled up then decided to give it large to make up some time as we were delayed getting off the boat.
We'll, good news is that 130mph is easy, bad news is you can actually see the guage moving at that speed.
Did about an hour at 90-100 mph then dropped back to 80. Checked mpg when I topped off in Poland 24mpg for that stint.
Tomorrow will be mostly spent with cruise set to 80mph and we will see what that gives.
Mate had similar on an old Kawasaki GPz1170 with a stage 1 head. He could keep up with more modern kit, but the fuel gauge sections winked out alarmingly fast. IIRC he got around 20mpg.
 
Well, if you have to do 600 miles in a day then 400 the next I can confirm that a 3.6tdv8 l322 is one of the better vehicles to do it in.
What I have learnt though is that the fuel economy properly falls off a cliff above 90mph.
On the morning stint through Holland (Dutch plod is not good to argue with so I stick to the daft 100kmh limit by and large) I got 31mpg. Filled up then decided to give it large to make up some time as we were delayed getting off the boat.
We'll, good news is that 130mph is easy, bad news is you can actually see the guage moving at that speed.
Did about an hour at 90-100 mph then dropped back to 80. Checked mpg when I topped off in Poland 24mpg for that stint.
Tomorrow will be mostly spent with cruise set to 80mph and we will see what that gives.
IMO, my 3,6 XJS was better for those sort of mileages.
 
Changed front drop links. The car is much better in the corners, but the noise is not gone. Will need to further troubleshoot it.

Started to look into fixing the rear diff leak. Manual says to change the whole drive shaft. Started to look on how to change it (in the rear), think that need to disconnect the hub from lower arm, toe control and height sensor. Then should be able to take out the old shaft. Anybody who has done this?

Gonna do a skip run with it, full of cabinets and plumbing.
 
Changed front drop links. The car is much better in the corners, but the noise is not gone. Will need to further troubleshoot it.

Started to look into fixing the rear diff leak. Manual says to change the whole drive shaft. Started to look on how to change it (in the rear), think that need to disconnect the hub from lower arm, toe control and height sensor. Then should be able to take out the old shaft. Anybody who has done this?

Gonna do a skip run with it, full of cabinets and plumbing.
Sounds like you ae leaving it at the dump LOL
 
Silly question but i probably know the answer.. on a modern car, do you need to disconnect the battery before doing a load/drop test?
 
Normally I'd disconnect to charge up, then test.
To put it another way, can you damage anything by pulling a large current/dropping the voltage while it's connected to the car?
Thinking about all the BMS stuff they put on modern cars.. pyrotechnics etc
 

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