TITCH SANDERS said:
Taking my 4.0 for MOT next week... I'm always nervous. but then, if anything crops up it's always for a reason.. legal & safety one's at that.
The outcome of the test will confirm as to weather I invest in a Nanocom for myself ( when I find the Piggy bank!)
Today I'm aiming to sort the 'Airbag Fault' message that's come up on the dash.. would a Nanocom simply delete that message does anyone know please too?.. or dare I 'play' with the Yellow cables connections under the drivers seat first?
Also due for insurance renewal at the end of the week.. Footman James I have found to be reasonable too.
Fingers Crossed,
Titch
Click to expand...
The fault will clear without Nanocom if you fix the problem. Plug and unplug a few times the connector under the drivers seat which is the usual culprit. It's recommended that you disconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes first, but I never do.
What Nanocom will do is tell you which circuit the fault is on.
 
I always left the battery off overnight before tampering with airbag electrics just to be safe and let the system discharge. Still have to be careful with certain elements. Pretty sure on later models the srs fault clears on ecu checks at startup but early models like my ‘95 required resetting with diagnostic even after the issue was sorted. Petrol could possibly be different? Worth checking the dash bulbs on the red srs warning too - they should blink using 2 bulbs - if one blows it causes a fault which isn’t always immediately apparent as it still lights up.
 
Headlining taken out, new air filter fitted and levels checked. Oil and plugs change next.
IMG_1374.jpeg
 
TITCH SANDERS said:
Thanks on that!!
Click to expand...
The side airbags on the P38 are all past their use by date and are actually pretty useless as I found out when I slid on ice at low speed into a ditch. The drivers side seat airbag blew bursting the seat seams, the bag went into the rear foot well so provided no protection. I have not replaced it, instead I have fitted a resistor to fool the SRS into thinking the airbag is there. No connector so no more SRS faults.
 
Last week I discovered the Heater Core Temp sensor missing on my project P38 (now daily driver). HEVAC thought the coolant temp was -19degC. Rather than pay £40 for an untested used one, I decided to make one.

NTC (£1.50) & Connector (£3.50) from eBay, and some wire & heatshrink. Taped & ty-wrap to the heater matrix feed pipe.
Now both GEMS & HEVAC say the temp is the same.
 

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pwood999 said:
Last week I discovered the Heater Core Temp sensor missing on my project P38 (now daily driver). HEVAC thought the coolant temp was -19degC. Rather than pay £40 for an untested used one, I decided to make one.

NTC (£1.50) & Connector (£3.50) from eBay, and some wire & heatshrink. Taped & ty-wrap to the heater matrix feed pipe.
Now both GEMS & HEVAC say the temp is the same.
Click to expand...
That's the sort of smart fix I like :)
 
Next jobs are sorting cruise vacuum pipe, and lower windscreen rattle at 70mph. Did this on green P38 a few years back but cannot remember what clips I used.
 
pwood999 said:
Next jobs are sorting cruise vacuum pipe, and lower windscreen rattle at 70mph. Did this on green P38 a few years back but cannot remember what clips I used.
Click to expand...
Otto's cruise doesn't work. Prime suspect is the vacuum hose at 25 years old, but also have suspicions about the connections for the set button on the wheel.
 
pwood999 said:
Last week I discovered the Heater Core Temp sensor missing on my project P38 (now daily driver). HEVAC thought the coolant temp was -19degC. Rather than pay £40 for an untested used one, I decided to make one.

NTC (£1.50) & Connector (£3.50) from eBay, and some wire & heatshrink. Taped & ty-wrap to the heater matrix feed pipe.
Now both GEMS & HEVAC say the temp is the same.
Click to expand...
Any links to which ones to buy please
 
Datatek said:
I will not be looking for payback from the grid. Night time we have half price electricity which heats the water tanks, the objective is to reduce daytime consumption and thus reduce the bills. As there is a conservation order on the mill, I have to get permission to roof mount the panels. If permission is refused, I have a spot where they can be mounted at ground level for which I do not need permission but the panels would be less efficient.
Click to expand...

I was going to mount them on a frame above pathway and angle them at the optimum angle. Easier to clean but might require planning permission.
 
TITCH SANDERS said:
Taking my 4.0 for MOT next week... I'm always nervous. but then, if anything crops up it's always for a reason.. legal & safety one's at that.
The outcome of the test will confirm as to weather I invest in a Nanocom for myself ( when I find the Piggy bank!)
Today I'm aiming to sort the 'Airbag Fault' message that's come up on the dash.. would a Nanocom simply delete that message does anyone know please too?.. or dare I 'play' with the Yellow cables connections under the drivers seat first?
Also due for insurance renewal at the end of the week.. Footman James I have found to be reasonable too.
Fingers Crossed,
Titch
Click to expand...

Nanocom sometimes required to delete it. Check the bulbs in the instrument cluster.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I was going to mount them on a frame above pathway and angle them at the optimum angle. Easier to clean but might require planning permission.
Click to expand...
I think in the UK as long as ridge/eaves heights are below limit and not within 1.5m of a boundary, and not covering more than 50% of garden area you would be okay with the rules.
 
Driving home last night and the car started misting up badly. Never had that happen before! Like the air recirculation was closed, but it wasn't. AC won't have been working as it was -2c outside
 
Had a play with a low coolant alarm setup on my bench. It works. Voltage drops from 12V to 9V in my modified coolant tank using water. If I set the alarm to trigger below 6V I think it will work.
 
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