1988smithy said:
Those landsails any good? Apart from the cracking πŸ˜… Seem very popular, might have to go cheaper cuz I want my wheels refurbed and trued up same time, prefer pirellis but about 250 a corner

Looking at nexen as well, they seemed ok on my audi
Click to expand...
Got (I think) 3 landsails on the everyday Fusion. Seem perfectly good budget tyres for that.
 
Uncovered him, took out the half full dehumidifier (it has been wet recently and it was set to maximum effort).
Took 3 goes and a prod of throttle from cold for him to catch and stay running.
Took him out for 30 miles of local exploration and wafting, troublefree.
Got home, left him 15 minutes, tried and he started straight up.
Went and got the cover, tried again where he had only been standing 2 minutes, started promptly but lumpy running at about 400rpm for 10 seconds before suddenly picking up and settling down at 700 as he should.
 
Got an hour on the β€˜38 today. The ball joint fork arrived the other day so I put the splitter on the top and split the swivel hub off. With the swivel off it’s clear the bottom ball joint is knackered, can be wiggled in all directions without effort. Any road tried to extract the ball joints 🀣 Lost interest now until the mapp torch kit arrive. More PG applied and rust cleaned away so hopefully a bit of heat will encourage then to let go. Looking for to the rebuild as the tear down has been a right pita.
 
Finished the service and pre-MOT checks, attacked small patches of surface rust on the underside, greased the UJ's and then gave it it's bi-annual wash. Waste of time washing it where I live as it's dirty again as soon as it hits the lane.
The bonnet is a bit rough as it looks like at some time it it's been hit by acid splashes which in small spots has eaten through the clear coat.
IMG_0350[1].JPG
 
Bix said:
Not gonna lie, I was planning on doing just the top 2 if it came to it. Looking at the wetness, it seems it starts around the lower section. I plan on taking off the intake so I can have a better look on the weekend.
Click to expand...

Once one goes I suspect the others are on their way. There's a seal under the oval cover on each side of the FIP as well. Csn ve done in situ but the one facing the engine is a PITA. Watch for the spring zipping out and disappearing.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Once one goes I suspect the others are on their way. There's a seal under the oval cover on each side of the FIP as well. Csn ve done in situ but the one facing the engine is a PITA. Watch for the spring zipping out and disappearing.
Click to expand...
That may be true, but replacing the top O ring is dead easy, the others less so. I just did the top O ring on both mine. One was done over 2 years ago and it is still OK. I have the rest of the set if needed. :cool:
 
my L322 has adaptive dampers, which i thought was standard on the 2010+ model, but software asks if my car has it or not.. hmm..
but, does anyone know what dynamic response is? apparently i dont have that fitted
 
kermit_rr said:
my L322 has adaptive dampers, which i thought was standard on the 2010+ model, but software asks if my car has it or not.. hmm..
but, does anyone know what dynamic response is? apparently i dont have that fitted
Click to expand...

You asked, don't blame me :oops: :p

J
 

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Tried to get the heated steering wheel working again,
Fuse is good
Tried my old working wheel and buttons
Get 12v to the ecu, got continuity from fuse to 12v+ at the wheel ecu
Tried the ecu out my old wheel
Still nothing when i press the button πŸ™„
 
stustrong said:
Tried to get the heated steering wheel working again,
Fuse is good
Tried my old working wheel and buttons
Get 12v to the ecu, got continuity from fuse to 12v+ at the wheel ecu
Tried the ecu out my old wheel
Still nothing when i press the button πŸ™„
Click to expand...
the button doesnt light up at all?
 
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