Ok, a bit more persuasion and think i was twisting the alloy cap that prettifies the wheel nuts. o_O
Managed to get another off, went with such a crack my fingers now hurt!!
I remember "back inthe day" we never used torque wrenches on wheel nuts, just an extra "nip" on each nut, in all my years of
driving and working on motors, I have Never had a wheel nut work loose but, I torque em now so, they are not overtightened.
 
Hey, new forum looks nice. I can finally share the pictures from when I changed the CV joint.
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It was an absolute lickout. Was glad I was able to recruit a Fijian to crack off the hubnut. Was surprised to find the old joint was fine, the noise was all because a circlip failed. Not really sure what could've caused it to fail. But hey-ho, I had a full kit to replace the corner so I did anyway, means the old joint is now a spare. I just need a CV boot kit to keep in the garage just in case.

Also, the factory hub nut is 32mm, the replacement item was 36mm. Worth knowing in case you don't have a 36mm socket in the toolbox. I was lucky one of the wife's friend was able to pick one up for me from a popular orange store. Also, a 36mm socket only just fits in the centre bore of the wheel. Took a small amount of paint off the wheel when I tightened it up.
 
@kermit_rr just spotted on the fullfatrr forum that there aren’t protective caps it’s basically welded on from factory but they are known to swell and need something like a 23mm or 7/8 impact socket and gun on them and then obviously replacing if they are swollen.
 
Hey, new forum looks nice. I can finally share the pictures from when I changed the CV joint.
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It was an absolute lickout. Was glad I was able to recruit a Fijian to crack off the hubnut. Was surprised to find the old joint was fine, the noise was all because a circlip failed. Not really sure what could've caused it to fail. But hey-ho, I had a full kit to replace the corner so I did anyway, means the old joint is now a spare. I just need a CV boot kit to keep in the garage just in case.

Also, the factory hub nut is 32mm, the replacement item was 36mm. Worth knowing in case you don't have a 36mm socket in the toolbox. I was lucky one of the wife's friend was able to pick one up for me from a popular orange store. Also, a 36mm socket only just fits in the centre bore of the wheel. Took a small amount of paint off the wheel when I tightened it up.
Perfect this was just what I needed pictures and a bit of info as I’ve got a reluctor ring to replace which is essentially the same job either that or I just replace the cv joint anyway since that comes with a new ring though I’ve already got a ring that came with the car to replace it with. Though I don’t have a Fijian in my toolbox so that might be a bit difficult for me.

Edit: just had a look at the battery impact apparently it has 1625nm breakaway torque I would think that would be enough to undo it but who know.
 
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Perfect this was just what I needed pictures and a bit of info as I’ve got a reluctor ring to replace which is essentially the same job either that or I just replace the cv joint anyway since that comes with a new ring though I’ve already got a ring that came with the car to replace it with. Though I don’t have a Fijian in my toolbox so that might be a bit difficult for me.

Edit: just had a look at the battery impact apparently it has 1625nm breakaway torque I would think that would be enough to undo it but who know.
For getting the hub off, I cracked off the four bolts a few threads. Then give them a few taps with a hammer. Although I was lucky as it wasn't that tight on. Guess the antiseize I slapped on there last time I had the hub off made all the difference.
I think the ring is friction fit because even after being manhandled by me it didn't budge. I can only assume applying more heat than a Yank in Saigon gets them off and on again. So possibly easier to just replace the CV.

The hubnut is supposed to be around 260, so I'd hope 1625 in a rattle gun should do the trick. But a Fijian in the toolbox is absolutely worth having.
 
For getting the hub off, I cracked off the four bolts a few threads. Then give them a few taps with a hammer. Although I was lucky as it wasn't that tight on. Guess the antiseize I slapped on there last time I had the hub off made all the difference.
I think the ring is friction fit because even after being manhandled by me it didn't budge. I can only assume applying more heat than a Yank in Saigon gets them off and on again. So possibly easier to just replace the CV.

The hubnut is supposed to be around 260, so I'd hope 1625 in a rattle gun should do the trick. But a Fijian in the toolbox is absolutely worth having.
Yeah I was thinking it might just be easier to replace the joint aswell, I mean technically my ring is split so it might actually knock off easily but it looks like the joints don’t cost much either so probably just go that route, then I can always play with the old one in my spare time to see if I can get it off and the new one fitted as cv joint seems fine so would be a useful spare to have.

How would your Fijian feel about being posted? I can stretch the cost to even have air holes in the box. 😉

To be fair I’m seeing a mate of a mate next week about him possibly fitting new cats if I supply them. As no where by me wants to do it if I supply by they are literally charging double if not more just for the exact same cats I can get and that’s without labour.

So might see what he would charge to replace the joint at the same time
 
Yeah I was thinking it might just be easier to replace the joint aswell, I mean technically my ring is split so it might actually knock off easily but it looks like the joints don’t cost much either so probably just go that route, then I can always play with the old one in my spare time to see if I can get it off and the new one fitted as cv joint seems fine so would be a useful spare to have.

How would your Fijian feel about being posted? I can stretch the cost to even have air holes in the box. 😉

To be fair I’m seeing a mate of a mate next week about him possibly fitting new cats if I supply them. As no where by me wants to do it if I supply by they are literally charging double if not more just for the exact same cats I can get and that’s without labour.

So might see what he would charge to replace the joint at the same time
Getting the old one off won't be a problem, in theory, as it's broked. Getting the new one on.. getting it very hot will help.. whichever route you go down, you've got to get to the same point taking stuff off.. as far as I'm aware
I reckon the hub nut is the hardest bit.. probably
 
Getting the old one off won't be a problem, in theory, as it's broked. Getting the new one on.. getting it very hot will help.. whichever route you go down, you've got to get to the same point taking stuff off.. as far as I'm aware
I reckon the hub nut is the hardest bit.. probably
It’s the in theory that makes me think it’s worth grabbing a new joint just in case wouldn’t want to successfully get it all stripped down only to find it refuses to budge without possibly damaging the joint in the process. Then if it indeed comes off easy enough and new ring goes back in fine it just means I’ve got a new joint ready when it needs one.
 
It’s the in theory that makes me think it’s worth grabbing a new joint just in case wouldn’t want to successfully get it all stripped down only to find it refuses to budge without possibly damaging the joint in the process. Then if it indeed comes off easy enough and new ring goes back in fine it just means I’ve got a new joint ready when it needs one.
That sounds far too sensible :p
 
Picked up industrial dehumidifier off my brother in law, so gonna chuck that on in a bit to help soak up all that water in the footwells, annoying I can’t get the plenum air foam till late next week so seems a bit pointless to pull apart the front end to seal up and then have to do it all again when that comes, could see a bit of water sitting in the housing for the drivers pollen filter with some rusty screws so gonna do a pick n mix at wilkos with screws so hopefully with get some close enough replacements.
The foam that you get does not last that long it seams to not be uv stable, Dopey used some fish tank foam that is ok or Datatek used an alli mesh painted , for the pollen filter covers use some self adhesive draft excluder round the opening.
 
That sounds far too sensible :p
Well when you only have access to the one car it means I have to be a little bit sensible occasionally as need it to get about, I do still technically have the freelander at the minute though it’s uninsured so can’t drive it.

Managed to give the boot a bloody good slam so the lock catches with cable coming out which means I can lock the the rangie and leave the dehumidifier running over night on my parents drive. Annoyingly a friend borrowed my battery charger the other day and said he would have it back to me this weekend as I could have connected that up at the same time to make sure the battery has a good charge, to be fair I might just connect it when I’m doing the sealing up later in the week.

Now I’ve in theory found everything wiring wise for the lpg I might have a go at connecting it up tomorrow too.

The only thing I’m unsure of is if I can connect the tank valve negative and the reducer solenoid negatives to the same point as in theory they are both just grounds. As my plan is to attach them to the nuts the reducer solenoid negative is already attached too.
 
The foam that you get does not last that long it seams to not be uv stable, Dopey used some fish tank foam that is ok or Datatek used an alli mesh painted , for the pollen filter covers use some self adhesive draft excluder round the opening.
Thanks for that, fish tank foam might be a bit quicker and easier to get hold of which means I can seal up sooner rather than later.
 
Well when you only have access to the one car it means I have to be a little bit sensible occasionally as need it to get about, I do still technically have the freelander at the minute though it’s uninsured so can’t drive it.

Managed to give the boot a bloody good slam so the lock catches with cable coming out which means I can lock the the rangie and leave the dehumidifier running over night on my parents drive. Annoyingly a friend borrowed my battery charger the other day and said he would have it back to me this weekend as I could have connected that up at the same time to make sure the battery has a good charge, to be fair I might just connect it when I’m doing the sealing up later in the week.

Now I’ve in theory found everything wiring wise for the lpg I might have a go at connecting it up tomorrow too.

The only thing I’m unsure of is if I can connect the tank valve negative and the reducer solenoid negatives to the same point as in theory they are both just grounds. As my plan is to attach them to the nuts the reducer solenoid negative is already attached too.
Yep all the grounds can attach to the same point
 
Yep all the grounds can attach to the same point
Perfect, that was the only thing I was unsure on.

Just ordered the fish tank foam for delivery tomorrow so that means I can crack on and seal up tomorrow! Bonus.

That means expect another post this time tomorrow to say I broked everything taking it all apart😂

Or they I connected the lpg up and it exploded. Either way good things or very bad things will be happening tomorrow just not sure which.
 
Perfect, that was the only thing I was unsure on.

Just ordered the fish tank foam for delivery tomorrow so that means I can crack on and seal up tomorrow! Bonus.

That means expect another post this time tomorrow to say I broked everything taking it all apart😂

Or they I connected the lpg up and it exploded. Either way good things or very bad things will be happening tomorrow just not sure which.
It's really quite simple, tank sender, tank solenoid, engine bay solenoid and power are the main points
 
It's really quite simple, tank sender, tank solenoid, engine bay solenoid and power are the main points
Yeah that’s what I thought from looking at it, it was just stumping me as I was unsure where the tank stuff was coming out I should have asked you really but I found it anyway now.

I’m presuming the injector cut offs have already been done?
 

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