Had new Gear selector- Gearbox cable linkage changed, didn't fancy crawling about in pouring rain. All done at local transmission specialist for very reasonable cost, now gear selector feels much tighter/ new. Don't know if its the same on all L322 but mine is TD6, but check your gear linkage, mine broke where the steel sleeve should be attached near the bracket, if it goes here you lose reverse and park but still have Drive and neutral, first symptoms were selected park and the gear selector still shows the correct light but dash shows either drive or neutral, If it goes on the road I managed to bodge mine for 3 days with copper wire.


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Had new Gear selector- Gearbox cable linkage changed, didn't fancy crawling about in pouring rain. All done at local transmission specialist for very reasonable cost, now gear selector feels much tighter/ new. Don't know if its the same on all L322 but mine is TD6, but check your gear linkage, mine broke where the steel sleeve should be attached near the bracket, if it goes here you lose reverse and park but still have Drive and neutral, first symptoms were selected park and the gear selector still shows the correct light but dash shows either drive or neutral, If it goes on the road I managed to bodge mine for 3 days with copper wire.


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Got to be a good bodger to own any Land Rover :D:D
 
Had new Gear selector- Gearbox cable linkage changed, didn't fancy crawling about in pouring rain. All done at local transmission specialist for very reasonable cost, now gear selector feels much tighter/ new. Don't know if its the same on all L322 but mine is TD6, but check your gear linkage, mine broke where the steel sleeve should be attached near the bracket, if it goes here you lose reverse and park but still have Drive and neutral, first symptoms were selected park and the gear selector still shows the correct light but dash shows either drive or neutral, If it goes on the road I managed to bodge mine for 3 days with copper wire.


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My td6 broke there too 2 jubilee clips and 2 cv boot clips and it was a bodge that lasted
 
@kermit_rr get one of these and you can keep an eye on the charging pattern, most motors with an intelligent charge will only charge upto 14.5 then reduce the charge let it slowly use some settled voltage then start charging again
 
@kermit_rr get one of these and you can keep an eye on the charging pattern, most motors with an intelligent charge will only charge upto 14.5 then reduce the charge let it slowly use some settled voltage then start charging again, but double check your actual voltage vs displayed voltage with a meter to compare mine reads 0.6v down just because it does
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@kermit_rr get one of these and you can keep an eye on the charging pattern, most motors with an intelligent charge will only charge upto 14.5 then reduce the charge let it slowly use some settled voltage then start charging again, but double check your actual voltage vs displayed voltage with a meter to compare mine reads 0.6v down just because it does
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Theres a screen on the 1 of the menus somewhere you can watch the voltage, think it will stay up while driving but never tried.

J
 
Theres a screen on the 1 of the menus somewhere you can watch the voltage, think it will stay up while driving but never tried.
J

There is on the touch screen ones but it only reads in 0.5 variables i dont know how to get it on the 2011 like kermits mines an 06 so guess older unit
 
Hmm, Nanocom not connecting to any ECU on P38 today. Boots ok, but no connectivity. Was fine a few weeks ago when I used it to check & reset EAS.

Found Diagnostic connector has become a bit green, but no obvious water ingress, so suspect just damp weather. Hopefully will get a fine day later this week to sort it & replace if necessary.
 
Hmm, Nanocom not connecting to any ECU on P38 today. Boots ok, but no connectivity. Was fine a few weeks ago when I used it to check & reset EAS.

Found Diagnostic connector has become a bit green, but no obvious water ingress, so suspect just damp weather. Hopefully will get a fine day later this week to sort it & replace if necessary.
Do you have a dehumidifier you could leave in to help absorb any moisture
 
Will be doing a few 100 miles this week so aircon will help. Already have a 16pin OBD socket with 6” wire ends so just need to get soldering & figure how to mount it. Can’t find correct clip in socket anywhere.
 
It knowing how to read it
Iv had it heaps of times with bmw petrols common as anything with bmws,
system too lean bank 1 and 2, and random missfires on all 6 cylinders, then people load the parts cannon and assume lambdas or mafs coils or spark plugs and then must have a vacuum leak,
Take a step back get on live data, lambdas are reading so why do they need changed? Bank 1 and 2 wont pull a lean code for fun,
Maf readings are within spec so why did you change it?
people load the parts cannon again and assume it needs injectors,

Iv replaced all these parts and these codes aren't going why?

Get on live data its opening the injectors for longer then normal conditions Its giving a lean condition instead of a rich condition? Yes
Lambdas and maf are working and reading and responding to changes in engine rpm Yes?

Ok so your cars telling you its not getting enough fuel have you checked fuel pressure? 'No there isnt a code for it'

Check it and find out a 50.8psi system is only pumping 30psi at the fuel rail, Takes all of 15mins and is cheeper to get it diagnosed then spend 300+ quid on the parts cannon for fun,

Another example,
My girlfriends dads mini 1.6d with the pug dv6 engine, broke down 50miles from home I got a pal in the city to tow him off a busy road and have a quick check before i head in to it as it was a 100mile round trip with the trailer regardless,
It had a crank sensor fault, and an egr fault, okay no biggie 18 quid for a crank sensor and a 10mm socket with me il take one with me incase and if the egrs a problem unplug it and get it home in limp mode if needs be,
Got in went to start it no tacho movement while cranking, okay il throw crank sensor on, no change so throw it on trailer and take it upto workshop, after 30mins poking about noticed the crank sensor wasnt getting voltage neither was the egr or cam sensor or an intake boost sensor, or intake flap,
A check on ecu fuses showed that it was getting reverse polarity earth through 2 fuses,
After a hour of stripping the ecu tray and bits out the way
Turned out a mouse had been nibbling at the loom under the battery and had a nest there, And because of the short the ecu wouldn't turn one of its internal realys on,
4 hours later few wires in situ repaired and running still with its original crank sensor and egr valve,
What, no error code for "mouse nest in fusebox"?
 
Otto still proud and tall after a fortnight, so the new airbags all round have sorted the suspension. Took him for a 75 mile waft to see friends not seen since before the pandemic and go for a meal. They were impressed with the wafting experience. EAS completely behaved, so he blew a tail light instead.
Now he's tucked up under his cover with the dehumidifier in to keep him sweet. He may get more use when we find out what is going on with the everyday car that got smacked by a berk last week.
 
Otto still proud and tall after a fortnight, so the new airbags all round have sorted the suspension. Took him for a 75 mile waft to see friends not seen since before the pandemic and go for a meal. They were impressed with the wafting experience. EAS completely behaved, so he blew a tail light instead.
Now he's tucked up under his cover with the dehumidifier in to keep him sweet. He may get more use when we find out what is going on with the everyday car that got smacked by a berk last week.

Oddly enough, never had a bulb go other than on the dash.
 

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